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TIG water line repair options

turnworks

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
I know of only two methods that actually last when changing out a water line for a TIG torch.

The torches with the screw on ferrules I pull the braiding back then push on the hose and screw down the ferrule then push the braiding over the ferrule and use heat shrink tubing to hold it in place. Not may favorite method but I for the life of me can't get the braiding inside the ferrule very well. I hate the plastic water lines, not very flexible.

Second is using safety wire in two spots.

I have heard of the brass crimp ferrules but never tried them. Any other methods out there that work well?

On a side note why the heck are the pumps set with so much psi in the first place? Not everyone runs max amps all day long.
 
Just back off the pressure at the pump. If the water is flowing it will cool the torch. If you have a glass sight to see the coolant then it is easy, on mine I have the coolant flowing just enough to not hit the glass dome. I dont do high amperage aluminum much any more but even if I did I dont think I would melt the torch.
 
I can’t turn the pumps down just yet most of the machines are still under warranty but plan to when that expires.

What brand crimps do you prefer?

I tried to get them to go to refrigerant chillers but no luck. I really prefer that style because of the lower pressure, cooler torch and the low flow alarms which can save a torch if it gets blocked up.
 
I am fairly sure I could copy one of those simple safety wire tools if I could see how it worked. There's really nothing I like less than glycol dripping down my arm and letting me know it's electrically conductive when I hit the HF...
 
I am fairly sure I could copy one of those simple safety wire tools if I could see how it worked. There's really nothing I like less than glycol dripping down my arm and letting me know it's electrically conductive when I hit the HF...

For $60 just buy the tool and move on with your life.
 
I am fairly sure I could copy one of those simple safety wire tools if I could see how it worked. There's really nothing I like less than glycol dripping down my arm and letting me know it's electrically conductive when I hit the HF...

can't imagine how one would possibly need or even think of using the safety wire twizzler for this, three turns with a decent plier and yer done!!:nutter: if you can't make that work with a regular plier, the twisty thingy ones won't help you.
 
Ok this is going a bit different than I thought. I’m thinking you are all seeing this as a simple push on barb with a retainer and the only thing different is the limited space.

The issues I’ve run into is the braiding cover on the rubber hose. Without it the rubber gets a knot then pops after sometime. If I don’t get the braid smooth and tight against the tube it leaves room for a knot to grow. This happens on either a new hose or just cutting off a section near the torch. Maybe just has to do with my technique and not the hardware I’m using.
 
I know exactly what you are talking about... fixed mine more than a few times. Sometimes its just time to pop for a new torch and start fresh. My last new torch is going on 8 years old with no issues.
 
I am well equipped with safety wire pliers, but the tie/wrap that the other tool produced is really cool. Unfortunately, the link showing its function doesn’t work.
 








 
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