TIG welding 1mm stainless to 6mm stainless-is this possible?

H

honeyman

Plastic

Joined

Apr 12, 2013

Location

UK

• Apr 15, 2013

• #1

Hi guys,

I am new to this forum so thanks for any help you can give.

We are working on a new system for our factory and would like to weld some 1mm stst sheet to some 6mm stst angle with our tig welder. is this possible?

we have got close but it seems very difficult to get the right penetration into the angle with out just vapourising the sheet. any tips that might help?

we have a Tec-Arc tig216i. and have played around with the settings to try and get it right. but we are new to TIG and arent 100% sure of what we are doing.
what settings would you reccomend?

turning the amps up and the duty cycle down low? what about the frequency?

any thoughts much appreciated

 

A

ADFToolmaker

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 12, 2012

Location

Hamilton, New Zealand

• Apr 15, 2013

• #2

If it is a tee joint clamp some aluminum or copper behind to sink the heat away from the thin material. For a lap joint use the copper or aluminum to clamp down with.

 

S

steve-l

Titanium

Joined

Mar 2, 2012

Location

Geilenkirchen, Germany

• Apr 15, 2013

• #3

You might try clamping a copper bar under the 1mm sheet as close as possible to the weld point to act like a heat sink. This makes the weld less sensitive to vaporizing the thin stuff. You have to develope the puddle on the angle and wash the puddle into the thin stuff.

 

H

Heavey Metal

Banned

Joined

May 10, 2011

Location

Texas

• Apr 15, 2013

• #4

Needs heat sink and/ or or back gased dont even show the thinner piece the arc just let the puddle flow up there on its own.

 

metalmaster10

Stainless

Joined

Apr 18, 2012

Location

Indiana, USA

• Apr 15, 2013

• #5

steve-l said:

You might try clamping a copper bar under the 1mm sheet as close as possible to the weld point to act like a heat sink. This makes the weld less sensitive to vaporizing the thin stuff. You have to develope the puddle on the angle and wash the puddle into the thin stuff.

Click to expand...

+1! For Steve
Starting the weld on the angle and "pulling" it to the thin sheet will help a lot.
Concentrate the heat on the angle and just pull enough to the sheet to get good bond.

 

M

Mark Leigh

Stainless

Joined

Jan 8, 2008

Location

Merced, Calif

• Apr 15, 2013

• #6

What size tungsten are you using ??

 

M

mjk

Titanium

Joined

Oct 20, 2005

Location

Wilmington DE USA

• Apr 15, 2013

• #7

if your application will allow, use tig brazing with a low melting point filler

if not use the above suggestions with a heat sink and practice, practice, practice...........

Mike

 

K

kustomizingkid

Titanium

Joined

Aug 2, 2010

Location

Minnesota

• Apr 15, 2013

• #8

Absolutely possible... Easy, no.

 

O

oxford

Cast Iron

Joined

Jan 28, 2011

Location

north east, PA

• Apr 15, 2013

• #9

Pretty much backing up what the others have said. Concentrate on the thicker and "wash" up into the thinner.

 

A

adama

Diamond

Joined

Dec 28, 2004

Location

uk

• Apr 16, 2013

• #10

Pulse if you can find the magic sweet spot makes joints like that easy and will literally achieve wonders at times. But finding that sweet spot is down to experience and no small part operator skill.

Are you running a back purge? That really makes a big diffrence to a joint like that! Equally the joint needs to be a nice tight fit up, gaps and your going to struggle.

 

T

Trip59

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 2, 2011

Location

Middleburg, Florida, USA

• Apr 16, 2013

• #11

In addition to the above recommendation for a copper or AL heat sink, does your machine have pulse? I never used it during my welding career, didn't have it back then, but since purchasing my last TIG, I find it works wonders for thin, thick to thin, edges, problem areas. Gaps will be an enemy as well. Back purging may not help the weld itself if you're having issues blowing out the thin stock, but it will make for a cleaner weld, as well as assist in consistency and reduce post-weld cleanup. Playing off the angle (heavy side) more, puddle a bit off the joint and then wash it in will help. Tungsten size will factor in as well, I'd probably approach this with 1/16" 1.5 or 2% Lanthanated and a nice long point maybe 3x or 4x diameter (the sharper the tungsten, or the longer the taper, the less penetration, but more control of the heat).

 

J

jamscal

Stainless

Joined

Sep 8, 2004

Location

Louisville, KY

• Apr 16, 2013

• #12

honeyman said:

turning the amps up and the duty cycle down low? what about the frequency?

Click to expand...

'frequency" above suggests you are using AC and need to be using DC.

Turning duty cycle down doesn't make sense to me.

Confirm you're on DC, get a sharp tungsten, steady eye and hand and you'll be fine.

____

Another trick is to start the arc on a relatively thick piece adjacent to the weld.

 

R

rusty ripple

Cast Iron

Joined

May 3, 2006

Location

new orleans

• Apr 16, 2013

• #13

dc pulse has frequency settings.

you can also control heat with the filler rod, if you keep the rod jammed in the joint puddle and get the torch angle right it flows together beautifully. i used to weld exhaust bellows which was usually welding .032" to 1/4", once you get the hang of it its no problem. keep the rod jammed in the puddle, and keep the tungsten pointed a the thicker material.

 

J

jamscal

Stainless

Joined

Sep 8, 2004

Location

Louisville, KY

• Apr 16, 2013

• #14

rusty ripple said:

dc pulse has frequency settings.

Click to expand...

You're right. I think in PPS

 

coolhand03

Cast Iron

Joined

Nov 15, 2012

Location

Kaibab Plateau, AZ

• Apr 17, 2013

• #15

this is all good advice. the best advice being practice, practice, practice. whenever Im welding thick to thin, i use a weave pattern and add fill rod when I drag the puddle to the thin side. this will add material where you need it, and it will cool the puddle, decreasing the chances of it burning through.