Vertical Roller For up to 12" Flat
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    South Dakota
    Posts
    72
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default Vertical Roller For up to 12" Flat

    Has anyone built a hydraulic roller to roll flat metal? Need to bend up to 1/2" x 12" flat. Seldom a tighter radius than 10'. However the closer the rollers the less waste from the flat end. Used one at a previous shop that was custom built. Looking for ideas. The one i am using is shop built many decades ago and is very tired and worn. I think i can use the hydraulic drive and sprockets, etc but need to rebuild a frame and probably new rollers as the old ones are only 9" tall.
    Main question would be what to use for rollers and bearings.
    Or are there machines for sale that do this? Essentially a narrow plate roller but needs to be vertical as we are rolling 20' sticks.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    25,747
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    8124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BRHMFG View Post
    Has anyone built a hydraulic roller to roll flat metal? Need to bend up to 1/2" x 12" flat. Seldom a tighter radius than 10'. However the closer the rollers the less waste from the flat end. Used one at a previous shop that was custom built. Looking for ideas. The one i am using is shop built many decades ago and is very tired and worn. I think i can use the hydraulic drive and sprockets, etc but need to rebuild a frame and probably new rollers as the old ones are only 9" tall.
    Main question would be what to use for rollers and bearings.
    Or are there machines for sale that do this? Essentially a narrow plate roller but needs to be vertical as we are rolling 20' sticks.
    Thanks
    "sheet metal" ones were once common as fly-poop, school shops, tinsmiths, HVAC and food-service folks. Heaviest ones might be for major turbine power water conduit and HY80 / HY 100 submarine pressure hulls. So yeah, it is "an industry". Or was at one time. More research probably finds what you need. Just not cheap.

    The one you have has lasted a fair number of years, might not be a BAD idea to just "clone it", not go over one size UP on any part of it. If it ain't broke, just wore-out... etc.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,365
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    241
    Likes (Received)
    488

    Default

    I was lookin at stuff at this auction, Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more I have never seen any thing like it before. The rolls follow the stock laying flat on the floor. Looks like a really good idea, don’t know how it really works.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Virginia
    Posts
    25,747
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    7561
    Likes (Received)
    8124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    I was lookin at stuff at this auction, Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more I have never seen any thing like it before. The rolls follow the stock laying flat on the floor. Looks like a really good idea, don’t know how it really works.
    Amount of wear showing on the rollers, not yet busted, and already SOLD?

    Must have worked long, hard, and "well-enough", yah?


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    14,350
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BRHMFG View Post
    Has anyone built a hydraulic roller to roll flat metal? Need to bend up to 1/2" x 12" flat. Seldom a tighter radius than 10'. However the closer the rollers the less waste from the flat end. Used one at a previous shop that was custom built. Looking for ideas. The one i am using is shop built many decades ago and is very tired and worn. I think i can use the hydraulic drive and sprockets, etc but need to rebuild a frame and probably new rollers as the old ones are only 9" tall.
    Main question would be what to use for rollers and bearings.
    Or are there machines for sale that do this? Essentially a narrow plate roller but needs to be vertical as we are rolling 20' sticks.
    Thanks
    Yes.

    Roundo Section Bending
    they make a bunch of them.
    Look like a normal ring roller layed down on it's side.

  6. Likes DrHook liked this post
  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Edison Washington USA
    Posts
    10,286
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    959
    Likes (Received)
    5304

    Default

    Virtually every set of angle rolls ever made, as Doug points out, will lay down on its back to roll vertically. And they are all available with roll sets that will roll flat bar.
    Angle rolls only have bearings on one side, so they are built sturdier than if you built one with bearings on both sides. But you still would want similar sturdiness. There are rolls out there that will roll 1/2" x 12"- and they are beasts. Usually they will have thick plate ends, with bearings at each side of the plate- so 4 bearings per shaft. (2 at each end) For 1/2" plate, you want pretty large diameter shafts, The Roundo's that Doug linked to use 9" to 12" diameter rolls for 3/4" up to 1 1/2" flat bar, and 8 to 12 hp.
    Roundo's are built very well- a used roundo would probably do this, even an R3. But they arent cheap- used prices are often in the 20k to 30k range. Several used R5s for sale right now in Europe, for about $50,000. They are worth it, but probably more than you want to spend, given that you dont need to roll pipe, angle, tubing and channel.

  8. Likes digger doug liked this post
  9. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Mebane North Carolina USA
    Posts
    6,622
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    53
    Likes (Received)
    1893

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    I was lookin at stuff at this auction, Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more I have never seen any thing like it before. The rolls follow the stock laying flat on the floor. Looks like a really good idea, don’t know how it really works.

    Must be something in the water at that sale. Almost $20K for this lathe Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more

  10. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,365
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    241
    Likes (Received)
    488

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mebfab View Post
    Must be something in the water at that sale. Almost $20K for this lathe Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more
    I was interested in the Sheldon shaper, check out the China parts washer, Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more you could have went to town and bought a HF one NEW for less.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    South Dakota
    Posts
    72
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ries View Post
    Virtually every set of angle rolls ever made, as Doug points out, will lay down on its back to roll vertically. And they are all available with roll sets that will roll flat bar.
    Angle rolls only have bearings on one side, so they are built sturdier than if you built one with bearings on both sides. But you still would want similar sturdiness. There are rolls out there that will roll 1/2" x 12"- and they are beasts. Usually they will have thick plate ends, with bearings at each side of the plate- so 4 bearings per shaft. (2 at each end) For 1/2" plate, you want pretty large diameter shafts, The Roundo's that Doug linked to use 9" to 12" diameter rolls for 3/4" up to 1 1/2" flat bar, and 8 to 12 hp.
    Roundo's are built very well- a used roundo would probably do this, even an R3. But they arent cheap- used prices are often in the 20k to 30k range. Several used R5s for sale right now in Europe, for about $50,000. They are worth it, but probably more than you want to spend, given that you dont need to roll pipe, angle, tubing and channel.
    Ya I guess I'm familiar with the small version of those type, "eagle benders" but was hoping to find something a little more economical. Looks like rebuilding the one we have is probably the only option at this point. I think we will definitely want to support the rollers on both ends. A lot easier to hold rigid. Are larger diameter rolls simply for rigidity? Is simply taking a large shaft and turning the ends down for the bearings the most economical way to make rollers? Bearing recommendations?
    Here is link to custom built roller built similar to what I need. Gallery

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    14,350
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    You want the shafts tough, strong for bending
    resistance. Not glass hard.

    You want the rollers very hard for wear against the hot rolled material.

    Large dia. rollers make for easier bending, but it leaves a longer flat at the ends.

  13. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    945
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    112
    Likes (Received)
    272

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mebfab View Post
    Must be something in the water at that sale. Almost $20K for this lathe Used Construction, Agricultural Equip., Trucks, Trailers & more
    It's purple wave... Use to work for the state and that was the method of disposition of equipment. Things always went way high it seemed like. Sometimes you get a bargain, most of the time not.

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California, Central Coast
    Posts
    3,201
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2132
    Likes (Received)
    1252

    Default

    Larger rollers will also have more contact with metal being rolled, helpful on the drive rollers.

  15. Likes digger doug liked this post
  16. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    14,057
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    4552
    Likes (Received)
    6698

    Default

    Honestly i prefer just mild steel rollers, yeah in time they get chewed up but they naturally grip better than a hardened and ground roller and a reface is but a couple of minutes in the lathe. Simple turned down ends are the easiest way to go. I like large needle races with the inner bearing ring for these kinda applications.

    I think you also need to settle on how much 1/2" x 12 your going to be doing, ie the difference between making a set of rolls that do that all the time to a set of rolls that do that once in a while is significant. Also are you happy to creep up and multiple passes, or do you ideally want set it and run from straight to near correct curve in one pass? One approach needs a lot beafier machine than the other. Same goes for only holding the rollers on one side. It makes for a far more massive machine build to do that.

    Side ways on has the advantage of easier support with some simple Castor stands on a smooth concrete floor, but the space it can then need is vast Vertical is a lot less floor space but can be far more effort and also the sag can be hard to fight on really larger diameters and longer floppy stuff.

  17. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Country
    UNITED KINGDOM
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default Vertical Roller For up to 12" Flat

    I have get quote from Jinan Style Machinery Co.,Ltd about that, you can contact with them. maybe it's helpful for you.

  18. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    14,350
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Seeing how it's a hydraulic drive, make pump & valves part of the control panel, use standard quick couplers to the machine.

    Make the whole affair in a large "Cage" of heavy box tube (maybe 6" sq x 1/4" wall)

    Put crane hooks and fork pockets for both orientations.
    Roll it vertical with the crane, need more room ?
    Move it to where you have room with a forklift.

  19. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Mishawaka, IN
    Posts
    337
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    38
    Likes (Received)
    78

    Default Slip roll or Pinch Roll

    What you are looking for is a version of a slip roll or pinch roll or initial pinch roll or plate roll. The difference between them are a 3 roll system or a 4 roll system and number of driven rolls . Bertsch, Webb, Lown, Tauring, Lemas and Roundo make the big ones and other companies like Bailleigh Industrial, Lemas and Montgomery make mid & smaller ones. Niagara used to do these as well.

    You can look at their specifications on diameter and hardness of the rolls to decide what you need.

  20. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    South Dakota
    Posts
    72
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by adama View Post
    Honestly i prefer just mild steel rollers, yeah in time they get chewed up but they naturally grip better than a hardened and ground roller and a reface is but a couple of minutes in the lathe. Simple turned down ends are the easiest way to go. I like large needle races with the inner bearing ring for these kinda applications.

    I think you also need to settle on how much 1/2" x 12 your going to be doing, ie the difference between making a set of rolls that do that all the time to a set of rolls that do that once in a while is significant. Also are you happy to creep up and multiple passes, or do you ideally want set it and run from straight to near correct curve in one pass? One approach needs a lot beafier machine than the other. Same goes for only holding the rollers on one side. It makes for a far more massive machine build to do that.

    Side ways on has the advantage of easier support with some simple Castor stands on a smooth concrete floor, but the space it can then need is vast Vertical is a lot less floor space but can be far more effort and also the sag can be hard to fight on really larger diameters and longer floppy stuff.
    Appreciate the input. Yes definitely one pass and 20' flat works much better in a vertical roller. Our machine has the tonnage to do it easily but we are lacking the accuracy and consistency. Wants to twist because the rollers are actually splayed out as currently it's built as an "open top" all mounted on single 3/4" plate. You can see it flex and it's been reinforced multiple times over the years so time to start over! I believe I can reuse the motors, cylinder, pump etc in a new frame. Just noticed today it is using a separate hydraulic motor for the two drive rollers, I'd like to make all 3 rollers powered.

  21. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Edison Washington USA
    Posts
    10,286
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    959
    Likes (Received)
    5304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BRHMFG View Post
    Appreciate the input. Yes definitely one pass and 20' flat works much better in a vertical roller. Our machine has the tonnage to do it easily but we are lacking the accuracy and consistency. Wants to twist because the rollers are actually splayed out as currently it's built as an "open top" all mounted on single 3/4" plate. You can see it flex and it's been reinforced multiple times over the years so time to start over! I believe I can reuse the motors, cylinder, pump etc in a new frame. Just noticed today it is using a separate hydraulic motor for the two drive rollers, I'd like to make all 3 rollers powered.
    we have very different needs- I do a different thing pretty much every week, so I need the most flexible adapatable machine possible, while you want a production machine to do one thing. That said, your current machine sounds very wimpy.
    I bought, new, an Eagle CP 40 some 20 years ago, and I love it. Its able to roll flat, the hard way and the easy way, pipe, tube, angle, and more.
    Its much smaller capacity than what you want- It tops out at about 4" x 1/2" of stainless flat bar.
    And it has a base plate double the thickness of your 3/4" plate.

    You need to beef that big boy up. I would want 1 1/4" plate if you have plates and bearings at both ends.
    If its just one end, open ended like an angle roll, I would want 2". With Bearings in milled in pockets on both sides of that 2" plate, and main shaft thru the bearings of at least 2" diameter, turned down from maybe 8" diameter rolls. Hydraulic motors are great- because you want slow- mine is around 10 rpm, and thats pretty good. The best rolls, like the Swedish built roundos, have 3 hydraulic motors, one per roll, and then they have hydraulic pinch, as well. Thats the ultimate. My cheaper machine has a chain and sprocket connecting the two driven rolls, that would work, but 3 motors, or at least 2, is better.

  22. Likes digger doug liked this post
  23. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    14,350
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by William Andel View Post
    I have get quote from The BOB & TOM Show you can contact with them. maybe it's helpful for you.
    Crawl back under that rock Kenny Tarmac

  24. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    I have contacted a Chinese supplier before,you can call them Jeesun cnc


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •