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Wanna weld a hydraulic piston to a mild steel plate

wereweld97

Plastic
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
I WANNA WELD A HYDRAULIC PISTON TO A MILD STEEL PLATE FOR THE PURPOSE OF A TABLE PIC ATTACHED WHAT CAN I USE TO DO THIS AS WELL AS TIPS FOR WELDING SCRAP CHROME PISTONS FOR RECREATIOANL PURPOSES:confused

the peices of the table are the dozer final drize ,,,, the shaft and concete mixer gear
(not inculde in pic is th mild steel mounting plate which is 11 1/4 inches wide and approx 1/4 inch thick

need help figuring how to weld it,and to build it
thumbnail.jpg:toetap::nutter:
 
You can easily weld chrome rod with low hydrogen rod,or if the rod is 4140 ,then use a stainless rod,but a cheap one used for building up before hardfacing..........the dozer sprocket will be more difficult as it is made of very hard steel..............but as the lot is for a table ,then there will be no problem........................So,Im pretty sure the whole thing can be welded up with LH70 type rod,or with ordinary MIG filler,but plently of amps,and preheat to near red hot,if you dont want the welds to crack as it cools.
 
Hastealloy W, 99 or 50/50 nickel, 312SS, 309SS carefully, or 7018/70s6 with preheat/slow cool.
Hastealloy W will weld pretty much Any steel, stainless or nickle alloy you would encounter with properties that far exceeded the base metal. Priced accordingly.
99 or 50Ni/50Fe nickel rods for cast iron will work in a bunch of cases. Again pricey.
312SS has many brand/nicknames, pretty much anything you find at homedefect/blows/tsc that is a stick rod saying "Can weld any stainless or hard to weld steel/cast" is 312SS.
309SS is a bit harder to find and works better out of a MIG welder and is pricey. The technique is annoying and hard to describe, and time consuming.
70s6/7018 work sometimes with preheat, depends a LOT on what the thingyjigger was made out of...

I'm sorry but I dont much care for the steampunk idea after I had to ruin a pair of big ass machinist jacks that just needed a soak in evaporust... I told my manager to call the guy back because I'd give him $100 over what he paid for them and Still figure out a way to make his tables on my own dime, but the manager was too chickenshit to do it... 99 nickle with preheat and peening the living piss out of the welds with a needle scaler did the trick, unfortunately...
 
Steampunks can do what they like ,I get riled when they steal the stuff off me,often smashing other bits to take them...........funny thing is years ago smashing things and rearranging the bits was the sign of a psycho,generlly a schizo ,and you could be sure of seeing their name in the paper sooner or later.
 
depends on the school of design you are after. If you want farm folk aesthetic, stick weld, no clean up - low hydrogen rod left on the table overnight to get a little moisture in it. If you are after industrial chic, then grind around the weld area, coat cylinder in soot from oxy-acy torch with no oxy on, use flux core 90xx,co2 gas, and a large no weave fillet. You want a clean collage then wire brush weld areas till metal glistens, soot cylinder (will prevent bbs from sticking), solid wire, 75/25 gas, tight weave, small bead. you want industrial field repair look stainless rod will give you visuals similar to ni rod at fraction of cost, bevel all joints, weld. (coat cylinder before weld); Or braze with brass nice fatty fillets - this will take tons of heat. You can fake it with si bronze wire, argon gas in mig.

WEAR AT LEAST A N-95 MASK! chrome is toxic, heavy metals are cumulative in your body over life. WEAR AT LEAST A N95 MASK!
 








 
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