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Weld repair on loader quick coupler

true temper

true temper

Stainless
Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Location
Kansas
My friend is looking for ideas on repairing a broken quick coupler. I am guessing its off of a 4 yard loader. The operator didn’t make sure the hydraulic operated pins were fully engaged and broke the coupler. Also one of the pin bores are egged out, which can be rebored and sleeved.
0bde45ea13474fd590d5ca67848024bf.jpg


A new coupler is 10K they would like to fix it for half of that if possible, I am not sure it can be done?
8023ca3a373b3d62fba3583a6d450341.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
It's hard to see it all, and not knowing how much actual stress that point will see, this is just a WAG. For a good strong repair, and provided those two components can be separated, I would knock off the busted piece, remove the pin and air arc a section out large enough to be replaced with a new piece that encircles the pin and can be heavily welded to the frame.

Stuart
 
The coupler appears to be ductile cast iron. The repair will require a post weld anneal to recover the original impact strength.

One inexpensive alternative is to bolt the broken section back into position. It looks like there is sufficient material for 3/4" diameter bolts.

The initial crack was caused by the worn engagement hole. The pin was loaded as a cantilever beam rather than as a pin in shear. The casting would eventually have failed even if the pin had been fully extended.
 
Agreed ,its ductile iron.....if its heated to melting point ,it will revert to a cast iron.....the only method of repair is by nickle-iron filler,or by nickle bronze filler.......Dont be decieved by beautiful looking smooth fillet stick or mig welds.The casting will crack again in the melt zone ,and it will go suddenly ..
 
ADI will revert to cast iron if you melt and re-cast it, but i do not agree that it will do so in the HAZ. I have successsfully welded ADI with E-NiFe 55 and 800 deg F preheat. Vee crack to full depth, weld an inch and peen each bead before it cools. Slow cool.

Pic do not clearly show if there is enough wear to cause bad load distribution...if so, yes, bore and bush. I cannot see total cost in my shop going over $1000.
 
magneticanomaly said:
ADI will revert to cast iron if you melt and re-cast it, but i do not agree that it will do so in the HAZ. I have successsfully welded ADI with E-NiFe 55 and 800 deg F preheat. Vee crack to full depth, weld an inch and peen each bead before it cools. Slow cool.

Pic do not clearly show if there is enough wear to cause bad load distribution...if so, yes, bore and bush. I cannot see total cost in my shop going over $1000.
Click to expand...

And if you judged wrong on your repair ....Who assumes liability if it fails ?
 
And for fuck's sake, tell them to grease the damn pins this time. It's no wonder the pin bores are egg shaped, everything is as dry as a bone.
 
I don’t even think there is Zerks on these pins, they are just to take the coupler on and off.
Now the main bucket dump pin is another story, they didn’t grease it and it came part way out and ruined the boss. I will try to get a photo of that.
No grease is good for the repair business.
 
Both types of filler are horrendously expensive.....nickle bronze maybe a bit cheaper.........massive weight to preheat,day of work to prepare,hours of weld buildup........then it breaks the first time its used......if a sound high strength casting broke,what chance do you think a weld has?..........One of those jobs that gives you a bad feeling?...second time ,its Noooooo!
 
Would he be willing to machine the QA for an insert? Dowel the insert in place with a pin that’s the same size as the QA bushing OD. No sharp corners, add some grade 12.9 bolts and it should be good to go. Make it a pull dowel just incase. :D
 
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