jermfab
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2013
- Location
- atlanta, ga
Wondering what the consensus is on welding near-aluminum...
I’ve got Heli-Arc, 4043 and 5356 filler rods from 1/16”-1/8”... but I don’t expect either of these to weld real well period... honestly I don’t plan to even bother with 5356, unless someone chimes in with a good rationale.
Here’s the part(s)
GM factory big block valve cover:
I’m still kicking myself. I didn’t notice the gasket had a bit of mold “leavin’” that wedged under the cover and broke it.
Or, welding this filler cap into a set of cheap eBay valve covers:
eBay listing said “aluminum”, but it’s got that “pot-metal” grey written all over the as-cast parts:
The GM factory cover isn’t AS grey, but whatever it is, a guaranteed, graded alloy it likely IS NOT.
I’ve never had luck doing more than evaporating pot-metal parts into more than a cloud of what I assume, is highly carcinogenic, vapor.
In any case, both of these will be one-shot goes... I plan to strike an arc and try for a small bead before attempting the repair or to weld in the bung, but confidence is not high.
I’m totally open to tips, tricks, methods and ways of holding ones mouth whilst doing the above. 4043 and 5356 covers all the bases I need to stock, but maybe there’s an “aluminum mud-rod” I’m not aware of? I do have a several reasonably well stocked welding supplies near enough.
The eBay specials were cheap enough it’s no biggie if they go to the scrap bin. Chevy cover is already broken... I’m also considering a mechanical option to align the gasket surface and JB-Weld will keep the oil in. Not much actually considered “pressure” at GM valve covers. Mostly just need a bit of squeeze on the gasket and I should be okay.
Happy Father’s Day to all the dads out there.
Jeremy
I’ve got Heli-Arc, 4043 and 5356 filler rods from 1/16”-1/8”... but I don’t expect either of these to weld real well period... honestly I don’t plan to even bother with 5356, unless someone chimes in with a good rationale.
Here’s the part(s)
GM factory big block valve cover:
I’m still kicking myself. I didn’t notice the gasket had a bit of mold “leavin’” that wedged under the cover and broke it.
Or, welding this filler cap into a set of cheap eBay valve covers:
eBay listing said “aluminum”, but it’s got that “pot-metal” grey written all over the as-cast parts:
The GM factory cover isn’t AS grey, but whatever it is, a guaranteed, graded alloy it likely IS NOT.
I’ve never had luck doing more than evaporating pot-metal parts into more than a cloud of what I assume, is highly carcinogenic, vapor.
In any case, both of these will be one-shot goes... I plan to strike an arc and try for a small bead before attempting the repair or to weld in the bung, but confidence is not high.
I’m totally open to tips, tricks, methods and ways of holding ones mouth whilst doing the above. 4043 and 5356 covers all the bases I need to stock, but maybe there’s an “aluminum mud-rod” I’m not aware of? I do have a several reasonably well stocked welding supplies near enough.
The eBay specials were cheap enough it’s no biggie if they go to the scrap bin. Chevy cover is already broken... I’m also considering a mechanical option to align the gasket surface and JB-Weld will keep the oil in. Not much actually considered “pressure” at GM valve covers. Mostly just need a bit of squeeze on the gasket and I should be okay.
Happy Father’s Day to all the dads out there.
Jeremy