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What do you call these fittings and where can I get them?

maynah

Stainless
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Maine
I want to make a pick-up truck headache rack/bed rail set up that is strong enough to tie down heavy objects.
I bought a cheap, money wise, ladder rack that I'm going to cut up and make what I want. I can't find the 90 degree fittings that I need.
I've looked at McMaster-Carr, but they don't have sizes mine has now.
The fitting in my picture is about 1.660" OD and about 1.375" ID.
Of course the OD really doesn't matter, but MC only lists 1.250" or 1.500" for ID.
They need to be weldable by a dub like me, and I don't think they are threaded.
Any help is appreciated.
 

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1.66 is 1 1/4" pipe elbows. Sch 40 should be a little larger then 1 1/4 on the ID. So it seems you have a roughly sch 20 pipe elbow.

Just go to any supplier and get 1 1/4" elbows

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Maine Frugality is in a battle with fabrication ability.....:D

DD.... I think you can see right through me.

Thanks Fabworks, Service Metals looks like they have what I need.
So you guys would just miter the corners and weld, eh?

I'll have to think about that.
I wonder why the original makers didn't do that?
 
You are going to spend a LOT more doing it that way... whats wrong with a miter?
Once you get your process dialed in socket-weld fittings are pretty quick to roll out.

The trick is to cock the fitting on the pipe and tack it where there's the biggest gap. Then bend it out square and tack that side, lastly you fill it up. Gets good even placement on the pipe without cracking the weld.
 
90 degree elbows for 1 1/4 pipe. Lawler foundry, King architectural, Wagner, West TN door, Eagle Sales....I am sure there are hundreds of other suppliers. They are sold by the center line radius. You could avoid fabrication and use chain link fence hardware, all sleeves and screws together if you really want the rusty folk look.
 
Once you get your process dialed in socket-weld fittings are pretty quick to roll out.

The trick is to cock the fitting on the pipe and tack it where there's the biggest gap. Then bend it out square and tack that side, lastly you fill it up. Gets good even placement on the pipe without cracking the weld.

or cut to length full part and run it thru pipe bender, faster stronger cheaper and no clean up.
 
Once you get your process dialed in socket-weld fittings are pretty quick to roll out.

The trick is to cock the fitting on the pipe and tack it where there's the biggest gap. Then bend it out square and tack that side, lastly you fill it up. Gets good even placement on the pipe without cracking the weld.

I don't remember saying anything about the process... using a tube bender would be even faster and cheaper but alas even more money unless you have one sitting around. I have welded sockets before.
 
Since this is Practical Machinist I have to chime in that if you could get a hole saw set up you could make bicycle frame style miters to make joints that look a lot better than 45 degree miters. That also allows for the top tubes to be longer than the uprights, which is what will really make it look better. The little extensions are what architects call a Reveal.
 








 
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