Cincinnati Tool Master Mill Questions 1D??? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Far better than the ER-40 is a 40 Series Kwik Switch collet chuck , as solid as the machine"

    doubt it.

    AFAIK , the ER system of collets didn't exist until
    sometime in the mid 1970's (who's design...
    sandvik , erikkson, moog hydrapoint ??? )

    the kwik swich thing i'm familiar w/ was a 40
    taper holder w/ a 30 taper chuck .
    as seen on bpt boss# style cnc's and such.

    an 40 national machine taper would be undoubtably
    superior....less convenient, but more abundant,
    stronger , and available.

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    And if you put an Air Power Driven Drawbar on like I did, you'l change the intire 40 taper tool in 10 seconds...allmost as fast as a CNC mill.

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    What make and model of drawbar?

  4. #24
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    gary, how'd you air-drive the drawbar on the
    t/master. just a nub sticking out far above the
    top case to wack w/ a hammer. the fw/rv switch is
    the only way to lock the d/b . it takes a big
    wrench to turn the holder at the quill.
    please explain so that i might convert my own
    machine.

  5. #25
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    I'm suspicious of the toolholders with the red or blue plastic rings on the drawbar end. These could be 40 ISO (metric drawbar threads) rather than 40 NMTB toolholders, which have a 5/8-11 thread.

    Mike

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    I know exactly what's inside the Toolmaster.

    What I did was design a new drawbar and install it. If you look at the drawbar on a bridgeport you will see a hex on the top. My new drawbar has a hex. Then you design a mounting plate to fit the AirMotorPowered Drawbar, available from several places like MSC, Kurt, etc, to the top of the Toolmaster spindle carrier, some people would call it the "head"...

    To change tools the quill must be in the uppermost position so that the AirMotorPowered Drawbar will turn the hex on the end of the new drawbar. Push the button for in and it sucks in and tightens up, push out and you better have hold of it or it's gona fall on the table.

    Yes, I kept the original Forward/OFF/Reverse switch, but that bar above it that you now push in to lock the spindle was not used, dont need it.

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    Nice machine! I just bought one myself, should be picking it up this week with any luck. Way heavier than a BP, and if the ways/screws are in good shape, a lot smoother too. I paid $1k for mine with no DRO, looks like you got a great deal!

    Here's a ??? for the other Toolmaster owners in this thread; what did some of you do to change the spindle taper? I have that good, although rare and expensive 3CH or whatever it is collet system. I'd love to go to a 40 taper, is there a spindle conversion available for this? Although I am getting a fair assortment of tooling with this machine, I'd still rather invest once in a more universal 40T spindle than ever buy one of those collets....

  8. #28
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    unless you have an old-ass ,no drawbar 1-b ,step-pulley machine,
    there's nothing to change over. i have a tg100 collet
    system from an old 1-b that i'll sell you for $200,if you're in need...otherwise , any old national
    40 machine taper tooling will work.

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    Yep! No draw bar, no hole in the motor, nut on the spindle nose to tighten the collet old ass toolmaster machine.

    You can see a pic of the collets and the machine here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

    Is this what you're talking about, and what are tg100 collets? Are they readily available and inexpensive? That's my only grip with this machine, although it's a great system, and it's coming iwth much more than what's in the picture, those collets are impossible to find used and run about $130 new!

  10. #30
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    yep, that's a 1-B style machine. not as fancy as
    the 1-d , but has the same iron.

    yes, the tg100 is pretty darn common- the TG and
    ER series are in any tool catalog . tg-100 are available
    from 3/64 to 1" . depending on the maker ... no-name taiwanese $12, lyndex $20 ,up to hardinge- $30
    and up.

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    Default Toolmaster 1D Questions

    I know this an old thread.... I am hoping with all the time that has passed, you might be able to help me with a few questions about a 1D that I just acquired.

    First, What kind of oil is needed for the head? What kind of oil is needed for the bed ways?

    Second, Is there seals in the manual quill feed (to the right of the head)? Mine seams to have a drip of oil on the handle every time I go to grab it.

    Third, Has anyone replaced the seals in the quill? What kind of a project is it to do so?

    Thanks in advance, LogsLumberLT15


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