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How do I adjust my Starrett Master Precision Level?

Michael Moore

Titanium
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Location
San Francisco, CA
I recently bought a used level (I presume it is the Model 199 as the base is completely flat, with no groove for round work as my .005"/foot Starrett has). The bottom of the level looks very nice (actually, the whole thing does, though the box isn't in very good shape) and I can't feel any burrs/bumps along the edges.

When turned end for end the level isn't repeating.

If the bubble is centered in one position, when turned the left end of the bubble is 3 marks to the inside of the right hand center mark. The divisions appear to be about .100" apart, so the bubble has moved approximately 11 divisions.

There's a large screw at one end of the main vial, which I presume is used to raise/lower that end of the vial to bring it into adjustment.

With that screw completely slacked off, I get the above results. But the bubble would indicate that I need to slack the screw off even more. :(

I can't find any documentation on how to adjust the level at the Starrett site or via Google. Do I need to put a couple thou thick piece of shim stock under the non-adustable end, or is there something else that I'm missing. I've not attempted to loosen all the tiny screws that hold the vial to the cast base.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Adjusting a precision level is a snap. Just find a place on a precision surface, and mark the area with tape or some blocks. Place the level on the surface and note the readings. Reverse the level and hopefully the readings are the same. If the readings are different, turn the major screw until the readings are the same when the level is reversed. If your model has lock screws, apply a little 222 Locktite to keep things in place. Just make sure the surface and level base are flat before starting.

I recomend putting something over the screw hole when finished. A little HDPE plug keeps screwdrivers out. At work I have to keep resetting the precision levels. The management frowns on breaking fingers, during work hours. For some reason, Engineers think levels are wrong when the level shows something to be off level. If I started using me trusty Estwing dead blow hammer to adjust Engineers, I would need new brass tips within a fortnight. Those screw on tips are too pricey for such mundane tasks. :D
 
Just make sure the surface and level base are flat before starting
MM:

Can't over emphasize the need for both surfaces to be clean - free of the smallest grit. I make a habit of wiping both the level bottom and the area I am going to sit it on with my bare palm. This also assumes the place you are sitting it has been oil stoned to be free of lumps, bumps or dings.

Before I started adjusting on it, I would go over the bottom with a fine oil stone (fine india would be the coarsest I would use) and solvent to make sure there were no bumps or dings that may have been missed on the level it self.

Get oriented on which way the bubble is going to go when you move the adjusting screw. Which ever way turning the screw causes the bubble to move towards the screw is the way that is raising that end of the vial.

John
 
Hi Guys,

One point re the Starrett 199: The black screw on the top plate, next to the vial window, is just a dust plug. Remove it and you'll see the silver-headed adjusting screw through the hole.
 
That was the problem - I thought the dust plug was the adjusting screw, so I just loosened it until I didn't feel any tension and wondered why it didn't make any difference. I took off the top cover and saw what was going on.

There's a tag on each end of the vial. I presume that 8-67 was when Starrett made it, but I'm not sure what 7.5 might indicate on the other end? How far off it was from spec, number of turns needed from a base point to bring it to level or ?

I've got it to about +/- .00025" now. It would have been handy if Starrett had used an even finer pitch adjusting screw, as I seem to keep overshooting things once I get down to this close.

cheers,
Michael
 
"There's a tag on each end of the vial. I presume that 8-67 was when Starrett made it, but I'm not sure what 7.5 might indicate on the other end? How far off it was from spec, number of turns needed from a base point to bring it to level or ?"

Hi Michael,

I would guess it's the thickness of the shim required at the fixed end to put the centering adjustment screw at mid-range.
 
I have a loaner Starrett 199 from traytopjohnny. I do the end-for-end check and adjust as required every time I use it.

Traytopjohnny showed me another interesting test...place the level on a surface that you believe is flat, grasp one end and move it slightly; the motion should be parallel to the surface the level sits upon. The level will appear to rotate or swing about a point at its opposite end. Repeat with the other end of the level and obtain a similar result if the surface is flat.

If the surface has a slight hump, the level will appear to rotate about a point somewhere near its center. The high spot is the hump. I used this technique to locate a .0003" high spot in the rear way of my LeBlond lathe. Otherwise, the bed "appeared" to have a twist in the middle section.

Mike
 
Make sure that it is clean and has no dings in the scraped surface. I got into an arguement over a damn lathe because the level had not been clean before an associate had used it.
 
I know this thread is old....but I also have a 'loaner' 199 from a place "I used to work for" and forgot all about it. I retired in 06 and borrowed it in the mid 90's when I bought my lathe and kinda doubt they would even have a way for me to return it since there never was a loaner program there. And if anyone out there still levels anything, they probably already bought a replacement since it was a big oil company. Anyways, I learned something here today on how to set it. I also thought that the 'plug' was the adjusting screw but knew it wasn't when it turned and nothing happened and that's when searching how to adjust it led me here. The only flat place I have is my milling machine which is still very clean with low use. After cleaning the area that was to be used to check the level, I put down some 5wt oil, scraped off the excess and put the level down on it. At first it floated a bit then settled down and created a pull when I went to take it off. I'm guessing that's a good sign things are flat.....? After wiping off all the oil, the level checked the same as it did with the thin film of oil on the table. It showed to be out .001 and got it pretty dang good after a couple of tries on the adjusting screw. Thanks!
 








 
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