Jones & Shipman Cylindrical Grinder #1212E
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  1. #1
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    Any One have any info on resolving
    cross feed looseness?

  2. #2
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    If your Jones and Shipman is like mine, be sure and check the weight that hangs at the back of the grinder. It keeps tension on the saddle, and is suppose to ride on some gears. Moving the machine, can jar this weight, and the chain can come off. It's their novel backlash eliminator set-up. I have a JOnes and Shipman 1300.

  3. #3
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    Ahhh...finally someone with a Jones & Shipman....beautiful machines. I won't be happy until I have a J&S surface and cylindrical - one day... [img]smile.gif[/img]

  4. #4
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    I`ve got a 1314 and a 540.As Brian says check the counterweight and make sure the shipping bolts have been taken out.
    regards,Mark.

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    I did Check the chain & counter weight and
    they're in position and functioning properly.
    The problem is; when you release the handwheel
    it will drop to the bottom as if it's out ballence
    and cause the wheel head to move back or move
    forwards, there is no noticable drag onthe hand
    wheel. This is a used machine that was purchased
    and only came with an operators manual and parts
    list, no service manual. At P&WC we always got
    the service manuals, that went to Machine Tool
    Repair. With the 1212E I can only see the
    exploded view, and can not see any info on how
    to adjust the preload on the hand wheel bearings.
    Thanks. :rolleyes:

  6. #6
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    J&S themselves might be forthcoming with advice. Their site provides an online query form:-

    http://www.jonesshipman.com/web/site...port_index.asp

  7. #7
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    Something funny if the out of balance weight of the handwheel will move the wheelhead forward against the pull of the balance weight.I could understand it going back but forward means something not right.Are you sure the weight is free to swing about on its chains?J & S traditionally only issue simple operation/maintenance books for their machines as they figure they are sold into an enviroment where the skills to look after them already exist.If you get a twenty page book with a machine you are doing well.
    regards,Mark.

  8. #8
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    Wheel head floats as if on air. If I rapidly
    rotate hand wheel then let go, hand wheel will
    continue to rotate 6 or 7 more revolutions.
    This will happen in either direction, and the
    weight will move up when wheel head is moved into
    the work. A couple of pieces have been destroyed
    just because the unballenced hand wheel moved
    from it's set position.the fine feed ass'y seems
    to be the heavyest part of the hand wheel.
    Counter weight is always thight on the chains.
    The manuals that came with the machine are both
    poor quality photocopies that cost an extra
    $50.00 each.

  9. #9
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    Another thought.Does the 1212 not have a fine infeed knob which you use to put the cut on with.When that`s engaged the handwheel won`t be able to move under it`s own weight.I`ll have a look at mine tomorrow and see if it does it as well.I don`t use it much so when I do I am probably a bit more careful than I am with machines that I`m more used to.
    regards,Mark.

  10. #10
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    Yes Mark, it has the fine feed ass'y (knob)
    but it still does it engaged or not.
    To do a fine infeed, you end up having to hold
    the hand wheel steady and try to fine adjust.
    One would assume that when the fine infeed
    is engaged that the hand wheel would lock up
    at that position. But alas it does not, when
    you let go of the hand wheel the unbalenced
    weight of it just drops and rotates in that direction.

  11. #11
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    Wow, you have weird problem!. I've taken my saddle off of my 1300, just to check and clean. I can't imagine your table floating as if on air! My grinder allows you to rapidly reverse the wheel away from the part- if you crank fast and release, it certainly keeps turning a bit. BUT moving forward, you're pulling on the weight at the rear of the table. A lead screw and nut certainly shouldn't allow the table to free wheel.

    I have both parts and operating manuals for mine, and they do leave a lot to be desired. Like the previous post said, they figure you can figure it out. I'd take the grinder spindle and slide off and take a look see. A grinder that doesn't stay put is worthless.

  12. #12
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    Problem found, solved and fixed.
    Thanks to all.

  13. #13
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    So what was it?
    Mark.

  14. #14
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    DEAD STOP pin was sheared. With a good tug
    the plunger fell out of hand wheel. Must have
    happened during shiping.
    Now I have Different problem, Our 1300EU Has
    sprung a leak from the work head, all 4 belts
    are saturated with oil, and this one has no
    manual.
    So much for buying someone else's problems.
    [img]redface.gif[/img]

  15. #15
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    Just so I have this for future reference, the part that allowed your leadscrew to virtually freewheel for six or seven revolutions, was just the stop that I assume stops the infeed at the zero mark???? I've never taken that portion of my grinder apart, but my mechanical intuition kind of sends up the wrong feel for this solution. A leadscrew on any machine doesn't turn free enough to allow a weighted saddle to travel unaided for that many revolutions.

    Chances are on your other grinder (1300) your labyrinth spindle seals probably have a plugged oil return hole. Since most spindles don't have seals, they rely on slingers to keep the oil from leaking out. BUT they need a path back into the sump.

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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Chances are on your other grinder (1300) your labyrinth spindle seals probably have a plugged oil return hole. Since most spindles don't have seals, they rely on slingers to keep the oil from leaking out. BUT they need a path back into the sump.

    Don't forget that a 1212E if that is what yours is will also have a 2 stage start up procedure... push spindle button once and shaft lubrication oil pump will start up, push it again and the spindle will start up, you MUST allow at least 10 seconds between the 1st and 2nd button press this allows the spindle to be lubricated.... on my own 1212E it has contact bearings on the spindle and the use of a very thin Mobile oil to lubricate them, get this wrong and it will be expensive..

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tornado220 View Post
    Don't forget that a 1212E if that is what yours is will also have a 2 stage start up procedure... push spindle button once and shaft lubrication oil pump will start up, push it again and the spindle will start up, you MUST allow at least 10 seconds between the 1st and 2nd button press this allows the spindle to be lubricated.... on my own 1212E it has contact bearings on the spindle and the use of a very thin Mobile oil to lubricate them, get this wrong and it will be expensive..
    Bare in mind this thread is over 9 years old !


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