My recent project (Pics)

J

jkilroy

Diamond

Joined

Jul 23, 2004

Location

Vicksburg, MS

• Nov 1, 2006

• #1

I posted a few days ago about a left hand internal thread. Here is the implementation, a 1.25" stub arbor. I made all of this except the spacers. The good news, the internal left hand thread went off without a hitch. Having cut no more than five or six internal threads before I was pleased about this. (Just call me the TAP master) As was suggested in my prior thread I used the reverse helix method cutting away from the headstock and it worked fantastic. All thats left is to case harden the nut.

 

rivett608

Diamond

Joined

Oct 25, 2002

Location

Kansas City, Mo.

• Nov 1, 2006

• #2

NICE.....

 

M

michael

Cast Iron

Joined

Oct 4, 2004

Location

hangtown, california

• Nov 1, 2006

• #3

Cool jkilroy! Did you do that because of lack of availability, or cause you are cheap, like me? Kidding aside, I get off on making my own tooling. Someone asked me today where I got some handles that are on a couple fixtures. I says, "I ****in made 'em, this is, afterall, a @@@@in machine shop." It was cool he thought I had bought them. Means my welding is improving.

 

jim rozen

Diamond

Joined

Feb 26, 2004

Location

peekskill, NY

• Nov 1, 2006

• #4

Snazzy. How will you case-harden them?

Jim

 

J

jkilroy

Diamond

Joined

Jul 23, 2004

Location

Vicksburg, MS

• Nov 2, 2006

• #5

Well the arbor was made of stress proof and I was thinking about leaving it alone. Having not enough of the stress proof to do the nut it is going to get case hardened. I was actually thinking of trying my hand at a little color case hardening just to give it a first try on something less critical than a rifle part.

 

B

BILLY-I.A.M.BL11201

Cast Iron

Joined

Sep 28, 2006

Location

Mass/Conn

• Nov 2, 2006

• #6

jkilroy-

when you buy your Kasenite, make sure you buy a bucket of Wilcarbo too. It's a pack you use to help with the carburizing process.
But you'd already researched that, right?

And make sure you follow jrozen's advice about using the turkey basting bag in your wife's oven!!!

Billy

 

B

BILLY-I.A.M.BL11201

Cast Iron

Joined

Sep 28, 2006

Location

Mass/Conn

• Nov 2, 2006

• #7

jrozen-

Geez- I hope I attributed that quote to the correct person. If I'm wrong, accept my apology.

But it sure sounds like something we'd both say...from experience.

Billy

 

Hitlist

Cast Iron

Joined

Jun 1, 2006

Location

Pictou N.S Canada

• Nov 2, 2006

• #8

Very Nice,
I can't wait until I am able to do that.

 

J

jkilroy

Diamond

Joined

Jul 23, 2004

Location

Vicksburg, MS

• Nov 2, 2006

• #9

Michael, I mostly did it because I am cheap. Its amazing what companies want to charge for something like this. I also wanted a 1.25 arbor with a 1.25 shank, not a .75 shank as I plan to use a 5" diameter milling cutter on it for a particular setup. I felt like a .75 shank was a bit on the whimpy side when looking at that 5" cutter. Also I have lots of tooling for this size shank, NT40, NT50, R8 and ER40 and TG150 collets so I can use this in any machine I own.

Hitlist, you probably *can* do this. The internal LH thread was the hardest part no doubt and I managed to pull that off first try. Like I previously pointed out I have cut maybe five internal threads total and never a left hand so it wasn't that bad.

 

S

Stan

Cast Iron

Joined

Mar 12, 2001

Location

-

• Nov 2, 2006

• #10

Jkilroy: You gotto leave your fingernails grubby in your pics to be a real machinist Nice work!

Cheers, Stan.

 

J

jkilroy

Diamond

Joined

Jul 23, 2004

Location

Vicksburg, MS

• Nov 2, 2006

• #11

Stan, Thanks and you would not believe how hard I try to keep my hands clean. Wearing nitrile gloves during the really grimy stuff really helps. I do computer work in my 'real' job and I hate a nasty keyboard.

 

gwilson

Diamond

Joined

Oct 1, 2006

Location

williamsburg va

• Nov 2, 2006

• #12

If the nut you made is a close fit on the arbor,you may find that the nut will not quite screw onto the arbor after case hardening.Maybe you should turn a dummy shaft to thread the nut onto so it can't shrink or deform when you quench it.I had this happen once on a lathe toolpost I made many years ago.The clamping screw would enter the body of the toolpost,but not too far.Fortunately,I was able to put valve grinding compound on the screw and work it back and forth till it finally fit.

 

Doozer

Titanium

Joined

Jul 23, 2001

Location

Buffalo NY

• Nov 2, 2006

• #13

StressProof is nice material to work with. It cuts well, threads well. It is around Rc30, Some of which comes from cold working. I think it comes from LaSalle or Carpenter. I like this material a lot.
--Doozer

 

J

jkilroy

Diamond

Joined

Jul 23, 2004

Location

Vicksburg, MS

• Nov 2, 2006

• #14

Doozer, I agree 100%. I think the official name for the stuff is 1144? I do like working with it when I can get it. I believe stressproof is a LaSalle trade name.