What's new
What's new

Paint advise for machinery

2Slow

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Location
South East Michigan, USA
I will soon be refinishing a Bridgeport mill and an Oliver lathe. I would like to paint both a dark gray. I am not fussy about the paint being an exact match to original colors.

Does anyone have advise as to what paint to use? I would like to stay away from rattle cans.

Thanks in advance,
-Joe
 

Attachments

  • photo (49).jpg
    photo (49).jpg
    95.3 KB · Views: 2
  • Sleeve gear - right hand side.jpg
    Sleeve gear - right hand side.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 2
  • Sleeve gear overall.jpg
    Sleeve gear overall.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 2
  • QC Gearbox - Dirty.jpg
    QC Gearbox - Dirty.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 2
  • QC Gearbox - Entire Assembly.jpg
    QC Gearbox - Entire Assembly.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 2
  • QC Gearbox diagram - Rascal.jpg
    QC Gearbox diagram - Rascal.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 2
  • gearbox installed.jpg
    gearbox installed.jpg
    94 KB · Views: 2
  • sleeve gear dissasembly.jpg
    sleeve gear dissasembly.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 2
  • Gouge on shaft.jpg
    Gouge on shaft.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 2
I tend torards utilitarian paint systems, it's only a machine tool after all; it's not a show piece.

I also prefer alkyd enamel in stock industrial colors. Easy to prep for. Easy to touch up. Relatively low in cost.

It's your decision of course. Many like the two part industrial and automotive coatings because of their toughness and resistance to scratching.

My point is nothing much holds up against chip abrasion so there's no great advantage to using expensive two part paint having a costs 4 - 6 times that of a GP industrial enamel.

Good paint prep is essential to a long lasting paint system. Should you fill and prime? That's an esthetic decision only you can make.
 

Attachments

  • 20170304_104636.jpg
    20170304_104636.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 2
  • 20170304_104456.jpg
    20170304_104456.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 2
  • 20170304_104426.jpg
    20170304_104426.jpg
    98.7 KB · Views: 2
I used an Alkyd enamel (Benjamin Moore industrial brand) on my recent lathe rebuild. Didn't take the machine down to raw metal, original paint wasn't peeling or flaking, just degreased (Stoddard solvent) and sanded. Its a one part paint so its pretty easy to apply and the fumes won't send you to the hospital.

Brushed on the paint (can also be sprayed) went on pretty well, some areas with ghosts of brush marks but not too bad. I'd call it a "semi-gloss" paint, it doesn't have the high shine that the original BP paint has. This was using the "California" formulation of the paint, the normal formulation probably flows out better.

The paints pretty tough but not bulletproof. Some areas under the spindle and on the carriage have some small chips gone due to being beat on by swarf, but its not too bad and will be easy to touch up when I can't stand it anymore. Keep in mind getting touch ups with a 2 part epoxy to look good takes some extra effort.

The paint handles oil very well, no oil stains or adhesion problems at all even though the machines been slopped pretty heavily with both Vactra way lube and Omega cutting oil, which is pretty dark and I'm assuming has sulfur in it.

They offer a variety of grays so you can probably get it mixed in a color that matches the original BP color pretty closely.

So I'm with Forrest, overall I'd say this paint has a pretty good balance of ease of use and toughness, not as tough or shiny as the 2 part epoxies but easier and cheaper to apply.

Paul T.
 
I do not want to go through the hassle of a 2 part epoxy. I am not worried about exact color. I plan on using a foam brush and will be doing some minor filling and sanding.

I am looking for advise on brands of enamels.

I had my eye on the Rustoleum smoke gray and some tractor / implement paint from Tractor Supply Company.
 

Attachments

  • mill1.jpg
    mill1.jpg
    68.9 KB · Views: 1
  • mill2.jpg
    mill2.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 1
  • mill3.jpg
    mill3.jpg
    58.5 KB · Views: 1
Personally I would avoid the TSC stuff. The red I used from them lacked pigment at all and wouldn't cover in 3 coats. Worthless.
I am a big supporter of Rustoleum. You'll get one coat coverage. Cut it with a mineral spirits to slow cure and the foam brush will flow out nicely. If you wait til fall in MI, the cooler weather will allow better flowout but allow greater time for bug infestation. After dry, if possible place it in sunlight. Avoid use and other handling for long as possible. I have no idea as to why, but the sunlight can turn alkyd enamel very hard and durable.
 
I've been singing the praises of ACE Hardware Rust Stop paint here, but no one else has mentioned it. I've sprayed it, and I've brushed it, and it looks and holds up great. I know a little about paint, I've restored Antique cars, painted trucks, etc. and this stuff is magic in my estimation. Brush marks flow out like magic, it adheres well and it dries hard. They have a nice battleship gray that looks good on machinery.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2380.jpg
    IMG_2380.jpg
    88.3 KB · Views: 1
  • IncomingPower.jpg
    IncomingPower.jpg
    95.3 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2382.jpg
    IMG_2382.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_2438.jpg
    IMG_2438.jpg
    87.6 KB · Views: 0
What used to be sold as "Hammerite" is good stuff. Wipes down easily and it is resistant to even long term contact with hydraulic fluid etc. It used to be available in "brush-on" or "spray". The spray gives a nice finish as a top coat.

Unfortunately (?) Hammerite appears to have been taken over by Rustoleum who sell the product as Rustoleum "Hammered". Therefore I do not know what the future of the product will be.

Home Depot sells the spray cans.

Brian
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170331_131504_BURST001_COVER.jpg
    IMG_20170331_131504_BURST001_COVER.jpg
    86.8 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20170410_103605.jpg
    IMG_20170410_103605.jpg
    89.5 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20170410_103722.jpg
    IMG_20170410_103722.jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_20170410_104536.jpg
    IMG_20170410_104536.jpg
    90.1 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20170410_104550.jpg
    IMG_20170410_104550.jpg
    86.7 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_20170410_104624.jpg
    IMG_20170410_104624.jpg
    85.4 KB · Views: 6
  • deckel_fp1_mkii_adjustable_stop_dogs_big.jpg
    deckel_fp1_mkii_adjustable_stop_dogs_big.jpg
    15.9 KB · Views: 3
I've been singing the praises of ACE Hardware Rust Stop paint
That's what was used to paint my utility trailer (128 square feet of deck plate, one primer coat & two top coats). Tough as nails, easy to apply, quick drying.

No hot chips, but sunlight, rain, bird poo, oils, grease, grit on boot soles, hot rolled flat, etc. Holds up well:
deckplate.jpg


----------------------
Barry Milton
 

Attachments

  • Viscosity-Chart.jpg
    Viscosity-Chart.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 3
1. TSC. I recently tried the TSC enamel in Massey Ferguson red, and was very pleased with its coverage on sandblasted disc brake calipers [cast iron] and related components. One double-wet coat from an HVLP gun gave great, uniformly-deep red.
2. Hammerite. Last summer, I did some experimetning with Hammerite Rust Cap. Slowest drying stuff I've used in 55 years of tinkering. Probably great for anti-rust, but very soft, and easily scratched, and I would never use it on my equipment.
3. Rustoleum Hammered. I've used a several quarts of Rustoleum's relatively new Hammered Finish enamel, and I REALLY like it. The spray cans seem to be thinned too much for good hammered effects, but the quarts are fine. Recently, I've been buying the black and the silver in quarts, and mixing them to get the gray color needed for the job at hand. Additionally, the local paint store has had good luck making custom colors for me using their standard colorants.
4. I suspect that some of the paint companies are currently juggling their formulae to meet new standards, making it difficult to extrapolate from past experience. In one case, a urethance/alkyd enamel that worked great for me for 12+ years suddenly [last summer] took far longer to dry, and never developed the hardness and scratch resistance of prior years.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2097.jpg
    DSCN2097.jpg
    97 KB · Views: 1
  • DSCN2098.jpg
    DSCN2098.jpg
    100.7 KB · Views: 1
  • DSCN2099.jpg
    DSCN2099.jpg
    95.9 KB · Views: 1
precisionworks,
That is a great looking trailer!!!!

I am thinking about some plain blue colors
( corporate GM engine color in the 80's) and some of the green colors ( olive green ), or even a khaki tan.

Anybody have suggestions on color? Mac-steel has a nice green ,but it is patented and I don't know if you can buy it without having the code to it.
The grey is OK, but the last place I worked had everything grey. It seemed as if you were walking into large battle ship every morning. There was no depth perception, almost like a punk rock video where everything appears dipped in grey but the singers lips.

Was very depressing, you couldn't see outside, had a rainy day in prison feeling everyday.

Made us wonder if the guy was communist?????


Don't get me wrong I have work benches, tables, carts ,etc, that are grey, I just like a bit of contrast .


Jackal
 
Joe,

Some comments and ideas…

Rustoleum Smoke Gray in the rattle cans work fine. I have a couple of machines I repainted 12 years ago and still holding up well, just the usual chips from swarf and tooling. Smoke Gray is a light gray and not a dark machinery gray. My personal preference today would be darker.

It’s all in the prep and most importantly removing the all oil and grease.

I needed a dark charcoal gray to match on one machine I was restoring so I used a can of Rustoleum Black and a can of White and started mixing till I got the matching shade I wanted. Most hardware stores and “Big Boxes” sell empty cans for mixing.

Any new paint jobs I’d use Alkyd Enamel, and brush it on out of the can. It dries smooth and most hardware stores can match and mix the color of your choice. My US Navy Royersford Excelsior 21” Drill Press got a coat of US Navy Engine Gray from a 50+ year old color chip I had in a book.

Wayne
 
2Slow,

I use Rustoleum paint in the gallon cans for machines and for other things such trailers or tractors. It seems to be a universal and durable paint. The best part is that you can buy it just about anywhere in the same standard colors and is very reasonable. Walmart, Lowes, and Home Depot carries is and the last I bought was about $23.00/gal.
 

Attachments

  • 20170402_153206.jpg
    20170402_153206.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 8
Sounds like Rustoleum or Ace are the way to go.

I would prefer something a bit darker than the Rustoleum smoke gray. I have used their "dark machinery gray" in rattle cans before for small items, but it wasn't quite as dark as I would have liked. The smoke gray looks a little lighter, and you can't buy the dark machinery gray in quarts of gallons.

That is why I was considering the TSC tractor / implement paint. They have a nice dark gray, but I have never used their paint before... I'll see what colors Ace has available.

-Joe
 
but it wasn't quite as dark as I would have liked.
Buy a qt of black and make it darker! I have mixed white and brown by eye to get an almond to match the wheels on a little garden tractor before. Just don't go too far...it's awful hard to make it lighter!
 
TSC also carries this enamel hardener:

Valspar Enamel Hardener

According to the label, it "Enhances Gloss and Hardness" and on the back of the can I believe it also claimed to increase resistance to chemicals.

The label said that once added to the paint it had a few hour pot life and would even eventually harden in the can. To me this implied that it resulted in what was truly a "cure" as opposed to simply "drying".

I like the prospect of a shortened drying time and certainly increased chemical resistance for use in the shop. The only thing that worried me is I wonder if the gain in "hardness" results in "brittle".

In other words, I want "tough", not "hard". I don't want it so glass hard that it will chip when I bump it with a tool...

Anyone have experience with this stuff?

-Bruce at FTF
 

Attachments

  • 20170508_174022.jpg
    20170508_174022.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 1
  • 20170508_174006.jpg
    20170508_174006.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 1
  • 20170508_174000.jpg
    20170508_174000.jpg
    91.4 KB · Views: 1
  • 20170508_173951.jpg
    20170508_173951.jpg
    93.1 KB · Views: 1
  • 20170508_173853.jpg
    20170508_173853.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 1
1. Enamel hardeners have been around for 30+ years, and at one time, hardened enamel was the top of the line automotive paint system. Circa 1975, PPG/Ditzler advertised that all 33 starters at Indy used their Delstar enamel with hardener.
2. These hardeners do work -- harder, more gloss, faster drying, etc.
3. Please be very careful with them. Most of these hardeners contain isocyanates, and some people are quite allegic to these compounds. Also, I've heard that almost everybody develops the allergy with usage over time. Reaction can cause death, and symptoms mimic a heart attack.
4. The TSC hardener can cites a toll-free number where you or your ER doctor can reach a health care profressional 24/7 for guidance on dealing with an allergic reaction to isocyanates. Keep that number handy. [The comparable PPG number came in handy a few years ago when I had my first-ever allergic reaction ....]
Best wishes, Tom
 

Attachments

  • lathe grinder.jpg
    lathe grinder.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 1
  • 3d bed.jpg
    3d bed.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 1
  • svarven.jpg
    svarven.jpg
    83.3 KB · Views: 1
  • FW early stage.jpg
    FW early stage.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 1
  • received_149089385774779.jpg
    received_149089385774779.jpg
    9.5 KB · Views: 1
  • MattiJ Trench.jpg
    MattiJ Trench.jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 2
  • Front V outer surface - getting there.jpg
    Front V outer surface - getting there.jpg
    95.5 KB · Views: 1
  • 20180324 bed level along2.jpg
    20180324 bed level along2.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 1
  • 20180324 bed level along 1.jpg
    20180324 bed level along 1.jpg
    94.5 KB · Views: 1
  • bed overview.jpg
    bed overview.jpg
    91.6 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324 bed level along3.jpg
    20180324 bed level along3.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324 bed level across 1.jpg
    20180324 bed level across 1.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324 bed level across.jpg
    20180324 bed level across.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 1
  • 20180324 bed level across3.jpg
    20180324 bed level across3.jpg
    87.7 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324 bed level across 2.jpg
    20180324 bed level across 2.jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324  carriage ways across 5.jpg
    20180324 carriage ways across 5.jpg
    85.5 KB · Views: 1
  • 20180324  carriage ways across 4.jpg
    20180324 carriage ways across 4.jpg
    92.9 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324  carriage ways across 3.jpg
    20180324 carriage ways across 3.jpg
    90.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 20180324  carriage ways across 2.jpg
    20180324 carriage ways across 2.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 1
  • 20180324  carriage ways across 1.jpg
    20180324 carriage ways across 1.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 0
I'm a total newbie by any account, but I am working on restoring a '41 Doall bandsaw. I spent some time last week researching paint and finally ended up with Sherwin Williams DTM Alkyd. Single-step paint (no primer). I'm using 2 thick coats (spec calls for 5-8 mil when dry, I'm probably much thicker).

The color I chose is called "Grays Harbor". Seems like decent stuff. Hard to compare with the Rustoleum on the ASTM D4060 abrasion test because Rustoleum tests 500g at 1000 cycles, but Sherwin tests 1kg at 1000 cycles. Results are:

SW ASTM D4060 abrasion = 200mg loss
Rust. ASTM D4060 = 84 mg loss

If you assume doubling the abrasive load will double the loss, the Rustoleum scores a 168 (which beats the Sherwin Williams). But I'm not familiar enough with how the load effects the test result to say whether that's a reasonable assumption. I basically bought the Sherwin Williams because it was conveniently available at a local Sherwin Williams paint shop. I'd have no idea where to buy Rustoleum industrial paints.

I'm sure that's more than anyone really wanted to know...

-Ryan
 

Attachments

  • R-4360 engine install Sept 2014 (3).jpg
    R-4360 engine install Sept 2014 (3).jpg
    96 KB · Views: 4
I know you want to stay away from the two part epoxies but I think they are worth the trouble. I used a two part epoxy primer followed by a two part urethane. Both are easy to apply and are some kind of tough. My second choice would be a acrylic enamel. Big Sky has two part epoxy primer that is reasonably priced. Nasson (DuPont) has both urethanes and acrylic enamel. They can mix any color you want. I have also used the TSC products and Rustoleum on farm equipment. I think they are okay and there is certainly wrong with them; however, I think you will get much better long term results with the two part products.

To put is simpily, after using two part epoxy and two part urethane, I will never use anything else on projects I have spent many hours on that I plan on looking at for a long time.

Just my opinion.

Grits
 








 
Back
Top