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Rigging and transporting a Surface Grinder?

T

toadjammer

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Location
WI
I just aquired a reid 6x18 surface grinder and am in need of advice in what I should do to prep it for transport and rigging advice. Thanks
Toad
 
Not familiar with the Reid. Pay close attention to the connection between the grinder bed and the base....or more importantly lack thereof!

Moving my 6x12 Harig I nearly crashed it because I failed to realize that the grinder bed and base cabinet were only held together by gravity!!!

There is a stamped depression in the base cabinet where the grinder bed rests on 4 rubber isolation blocks which I didn't fully recognize.

Other suggestions would include blocking/fixing the table so it doesn't roll from side to side if this is a cable drive manual.

Carefully and durably label all hydraulic lines if this is a hydraulic powered unit. Paint marker would be my suggestion, followed by protecting the open fittings from contamination with duct tape or better
 
If the machine is on a pallet, be sure it is a strong one, maybe with a 3/4" plywood top. The first machine I brought home after getting my first pickup truck was a Brown & Sharpe No. 2 surface grinder. It weighs about 1000 pounds. As I turned a corner, the pallet cracked a board or two and the grinder leaned over against the side of the bed. I got it home OK, but that was scary.

Larry
 
Thanks matt, do you think the head needs to be blocked up also? After your suggestion about the table I think it would be best to strap the table to the table supports from opposite sides to eliminate loosing it. No hydraullics, or coolant to worry about.
 
I just moved Saturday a Delta. We removed the arbor/nut assy that held the stone in so it didn't vibrate loose and fall out. If you move it with the stone still it, this wouldn't be a problem. Make sure all your other handles are tight so they don't fall off and take a ride in the ditch line.

Lenny
 
How far are you going with it?

Not far? Lower the spindle carrier on a block of wood onto the magnetic chuck. Drive slow avoiding bumps.

Far?... If a roller table, take the chuck off, take the table off, and lower the spindle carrier on to a wood block onto the saddle.
 
IIRC, some Reid Grinders have ball bearing ways. If yours does, it must be shipped with the table removed.. otherwise, as you cross bumps and potholes, the balls will brinell into the ways, creating a bloompety-bloomp finish as you grind.
Not a bad idea to block the spindle up,to take any shock off of the leadscrew. Some soft wood, lower the spindle housing, til it touches, then drop the elevation just a few more thousandths.
If you use a pallet, I suggest a hardwood one with several extra stringers underneath. Lots of heavy cast iron in a Reid.
If you do ship a grinder with the table on, be sure to secure it well. I once had the table on a Covel ID/OD grinder to slide, & punch a huge hole in a Ryder truck, only 600 miles on the odometer. I sure was glad I paid the extra 15 dollars insurance...
 
teh table should be ok wrapped in strech wrap well or banded with fiberglass tape. i second the sugestion of 3/4 ply on top of a heavy hardwood pallet,band well in two directions, if you don't have access to steel banding use 2 inch polyester ratchet straps, FORGET the 1 inch drugstore straps, those are good for holding your canoe down not a machine tool. nail a few blocks around the base to prevent slipping. THis is pretty heavy and top heavy at that, Taking table and chuck off would be a good idea if it is a manual machine.
 
Toad;
Remove the stone, then with the help of a helper,
lift the table off and ship it on a separate
pallet. Feed in the saddle, then lower the spindle
onto a block of wood. This will take the strain
off the leedscrew and the saddle. The table
comes off easily as it is belt feed. Unhook the
belt from the motor/gear reducer to speed pulley
through the motor access in the back of the base.
The spring on the motor mounting plate only
maintains pressure on the belt and won't absorbe
any shock, the speed selector rod can get bent.
We removed the motor/gear reducer, from the Reid,
and straped it to the same pallet as the table.
Lag bolt the Reid to a hard wood pallet, and then
stap it, be carefull around the table transit
limit switch as it is very easy to damage, and
a " bi*ch " to repair, LeLand-Gifford don't have
support for the old Reids. Strap it to the vehicle
once it is loaded. Hope you got the manuals for
your Reid when you made the deal.
Happy Trails to you.
Jamie
 
I had bought 2 new Reid HRs (rollerway) 20 years ago. For what its worth, they were completely assembled from the factory (minus wheel+adaptor). The table was banded down but that's it. If you decide to remove table (older Reids had roller chain for traverse, newer used belt) tie a string to the ends of belt or chain and secure them, lest they crawl back into base and then you have to re-thread the deal. Reids usually have 4) 5/8 tapped eye bolt holes on the base just under the apron for lifting or binding. Blocking the spindle is always a good idea....if not removal. Reids normally employ a cartridge spindle (Pope, Whitnon, Excello) and its a matter of 2 setscrews and slip it out the back, then there is little point in blocking the Z. If it is a rollerway (I don't think Reid ever used balls, all I've seen were rollers), it is recomended that the rollers are cleaned in a 4-5 month cycle anyway, so you may as well remove table for transport....a pray you don't loose any rollers. That's probably why they shipped them assembled.
 
I know with my Micro Master B & S, the only thing keeping the table from sliding off is the limit stops and drive belt. Once a friend was moving a surface grinder and when he made a turn, the table slid off and hit the road.
Michael
 
Thanks guys. Picked it up today everything seemed to go fine and m going to clean it up a bit and check out the rollers and wipers before powering it up. In the end it wasn't on a pallet and I had the gentleman I purchased it from set it on my trailer and the push it on further to a proper hauling position. Strapped down per his suggestion of strapping across table pulling forward and backward with my 10,000lb car hauling ratchet straps and used the axle straps with wear sleeves where it was touchin the machine. When I arrived home I "carefully" rolled it on pipes off the back of my trailer into the garage. Didn't get any manuals, hopefully everything is good to go for a while.
Thanks
Trent
 
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