Ok, all great replies.
I of course went with the simplest, quickest method. Grease and a pin. Just happened to have a transfer punch with the correct diameter. Didnt realize how difficult it was to squeeze some grease into a small blind hole. After getting the grease in I held the punch at the opening of the hole, (after donning my safety glasses) and gave it a healthy whack. Nothin, nothing but a punch stuck tightly. After removing the punch I tried it a few more times, no go.
Then the next method, carbide masonry drill bit. I have many laying around already ground up for metal work. Actually worked, for abit. Then I heard the familiar (all to familiar) crunching of carbide. I wrecked the edges, the face of the tip was fine but the OD of the tip was crunched.
After seeing how easily the carbide ate the pin I went to the carbide burr drawer. Burrs before end mills cause they are cheap and I was not to the point of turning on the mill yet and setting up the part.
I grabbed a brand new 1/4" burr and chucked it up in my cordless, keyless drill motor and went to town. The hole is actually abit larger than 1/4" which worked out good. The burr ate the pin up easily. Being the pin was a little larger there was a thin sleeve of metal left after hogging through. On one hole the burr grabbed the sleeve nicely and with a constant pull the sleeve came spinning out. The other hole was not as easy. The burr grabbed it and spun it but that is all, friction and heat. I went back the the easy-out. Tapped it in slightly to seat it then wrenched it tight. Again I used the drill motor and a constant pull (whole body leanin back pulling). She slowly spun out. Yeah!!
I had tried the drilling deal with cobalt bits, no way. hard pins. That also left out tapping.
Thanks again to all. JRouche
Oh, the engineers over at Henninger really ought to be spanked. Or maybe they didnt want an idiot such as myself taking apart the tool. I am removing a tapered shank from a speeder.
http://www.henningerkg.de/e_800/html/schnelllauf_fraesspindeln.php