Steel Identification?

I got some scrap round stock about 1.75" in diameter. I noticed recently that one end was marked with a spot of blue paint with an "S" stamped into the end.

Does this just indicate that the material is steel, or does it tell me anything more?

Thanks in advance!
-Art K

try a magnet to it.....we get lots of 303 stainless steel in and the vendor marks the ends with blue paint....its obviously steel.. the "S" may stand for stainless........just a guess.... there are some other reason it could be marked with an "S"....one is that is what is used to label shock resistant tool steels....but just an "s" would'nt tell you too much , because there are different alooys of shock resistant tool steels....I could find 4 different "s" steels.. S1, S2, S5 and S7.....the difference being, toughness, hot hardness, abraison resistance and machinability.....good luck......it could aslo be a piece of steel, and guy named Sam... wanted to save! ha ha ha

Metal suppliers mark their stock as they see fit (unfortunately, universal markings would be cool).

My supplier uses: Pink=stainless steel, Blue=aluminum, Yellow or orange = brass and Green=low carbon steel.

My other source for scrap (has mostly high carbon steel and stainless) uses all kinds of colors.

You should be able to determine whether its stainless (low or no magnetism) iron or non ferrous.

If you want to see if its high carbon steel heat it up with a tig or gas torch, let it air cool and test with a file. Compare it to the unheated stuff. JR

Thanks for the ideas. I'll definitely try the magnet. While I know some stainless can rust, this stuff was covered with a heavy rusty scale so I doubt it is stainless but I'll check. It does look beautiful once machined.

Thanks again!
-Art K

Hmm, rusty and turns beautifully?

Sounds a little like 12L14 or equivalent.

Might check to see if it can be welded to dispel this cockamamey idea.

-Matt

stress proof? it comes leaded too 11l40

machines like a dream.

12L14 is leaded and is bunk to weld, give it some test and get back to us.

this topic is fun.

some pictures and I bet the old boys here will nail it if I cannot.

picture of the cut and the chips, ok.

we can have fun with this topic

doesn't 12L14 have a purplish tinge to it when it's "rusted?" I put rusted in quotes because the stuff I saw looked nothing like normal rust. Was it maybe just the finish left by heat treating?

Justin

You could try welding a piece of mild steel flat bar to it on one side only. Then break the flat bar off. If the weld breaks in half it probably is weldable steel. If the weld takes a gouge out of your material It's probably 12L or 1144.

jrouche.....our stainless steel supplier has different colors he uses on stainless steel....blue=303, red=304, orange=Forgot, green=forgot as well...but he sells just about every kind of stainless steel...especially in rounds....so you know he is color coding each different......

have you tried a test cut?....tools steels usually are tougher to cut...because of the carbon,chrome and nickle used to alloy them...the closest you can come to figureing what it is is to try to heat treat it....Id start by cutting a slice off the end and heating it in to cherry red or a little hotter and then quenching in oil.....see if it gets hard.....that and how easy it is to cut will help you decide if you ant to use it for your job, maybe....bob

Thanks everyone! It is magnetic and heavily rusted so it is not stainless. The chips tend to be impossibly stringy and nasty and they turn the usual steel colors of straw or blue.

The only way I found to throw a nice small chip was to take off about 0.080 in diameter (at least) and drive the feed at at least 0.006 inch per revolution at a speed of 635 rpm. I am, however, using carbide rather than HSS, and I know I am not running fast enough for carbide to be truly efficient...but...

I suspect it is just CRS and the S stands for steel, but I really appreciate the replies. I've mostly used it for learning since when I picked it up, I had not turned anything over say 7/8" diameter and I had fun playing with it and making a test bar and a few other things. Mostly it was used for practice.

Thanks again!
-Art K