What to make "pads" for steady rest jaws from?

Richard Rogers

Titanium

Joined

Nov 27, 2001

Location

Bentley, Louisiana

• Sep 24, 2003

• #1

I have a LeBlond steady rest with the bronze (I suppose they're bronze of some sort!) jaw tips. I'd like to know what some of you would suggest replacements should be made of. Something with good wear capacity and that wouldn't mar the workpiece I think would be the major characteristics. I MIGHT convert to roller tips, but who knows.......

Thanks,

Richard

 

Forrest Addy

Diamond

Joined

Dec 20, 2000

Location

Bremerton WA USA

• Sep 24, 2003

• #2

Gun bronze is traditional.

Babbit blocks work nice too. Saw them from an ingot or make a metal mold.

 

C

CERT. (A) MACHINIST

Aluminum

Joined

Apr 26, 2003

• Sep 24, 2003

• #3

i would design it to use bearings.

 

GGaskill

Titanium

Joined

Feb 14, 2001

Location

Central AZ

• Sep 24, 2003

• #4

I don't think there is anything practical that won't leave some mark on the work piece. My suggestion is to leave excess material at the point you will apply the steady rest and remove it once the processes needing the rest are finished.

 

Richard Rogers

Titanium

Joined

Nov 27, 2001

Location

Bentley, Louisiana

• Sep 24, 2003

• #5

Okay, I've replaced all three jaws with ones that use rollers. What is "Gun Bronze" exactly?

Thanks,

Richard

 

E

EAH

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 14, 2002

Location

CT, USA

• Sep 25, 2003

• #6

A word of caution about using rollers on a steady rest. Because there are two rolling elements coming together in three places there is always the chance of chips or other matter being impressed on the roller or part. Once this occurs, there goes your concentricity.

Something I have used with success are inserts made from round plastic such as Nylon.the working ends of the jaws are drilled and reamed for a press fit. These inserts, if properly lubricated, will give good service if not run too fast and overheated, and are easily replaced.

EAH

 

C

CCWKen

Stainless

Joined

Mar 5, 2003

Location

Lytle, TX USA

• Sep 25, 2003

• #7

Just to add to everyone's good comments, It depends on what you're working with. I've got several sets I use. Bronze for smooth steel and soft metal threads, Delrin for soft metals and Steel on steel threads. I've never tried the roller type. Sounds good but like EAH says, I think chips could be a problem. I wonder if a "brush" could be added on the roller type?

 

M

Mr Bridgeport

Stainless

Joined

Nov 27, 2002

Location

Burlington, NJ

• Sep 25, 2003

• #8

Was in a shop the other day, repairing a machine, they had a big lathe turning a roll for a printing press, suppurted on a steady rest. Had heavy paper taped to the side of the steady rest. I asked what it was for. It was to keep the chips off the journal on the steady rest. Some things are so simple that you just miss em. I remember using my hand to deflect the hot chips. Well in this trade you learn something new every day. Hope this helps someone, Good day, Bill

 

E

EAH

Aluminum

Joined

Oct 14, 2002

Location

CT, USA

• Sep 25, 2003

• #9

R.Rogers-My curiosity got the best of me.I finally found Leaded Gun Metal in my 13th edition Machinery's Handbook(new issue for the year 1946). This is the alloy I believe Forrest Addy referred to and also known as Gun Bronze. SAE composition #63:Copper 86-89%, Tin 9-11%, Lead 1-2.5%,fractional precentages of Phosphorus, Zinc and other impurities. Used by the British for casting steam engine and marine parts in the model making field.

 

P

Paul Van Sickle

Plastic

Joined

Jul 5, 2001

Location

East Aurora,NY,USA

• Sep 25, 2003

• #10

I use a steady rest at work all the time. We run alot of long skinny shafting that requires tight tolerances. The steady has rollers on the three arms, the easiest way to keep chips out is to cut a piece if cardboard the diameter of the shaft, make a slit to the middle and then pop it over the three set screws that hold the arms into position. Works great,usually and even if it gets soaked with coolant, just throw it away and use another. I cut a bunch at a time with no hole in them and have them in a corner. When I need one, I can measure the size of the hole and make it in about 30 seconds. By the way anyone who has had a chip go into a steady while they are turning at high speed can tell you it certainly wakes you up real quick!

 

V

vortech

Aluminum

Joined

Mar 14, 2003

Location

Oxnard, ca, USA

• Sep 26, 2003

• #11

I have used delrin with great sucess. I have also used oil light, a bronze material impregnated with oil. The rollers work well if the machining is far away from the steady rest otherwise clunk-cha chink bump bump bump, ding on OD.

 

Richard Rogers

Titanium

Joined

Nov 27, 2001

Location

Bentley, Louisiana

• Sep 29, 2003

• #12

Gonna to "re-do" the bronze tipped ones, even though I have roller replacements made. Rollers aren't always best, so I'm keeping something bronze on hand.

How about CDA 954? (ASTM # is B505 C95400)My research comes up that it would be the best choice, as it's the most highly rated "metal-to-metal" bearing material I've found. Supposedly does well even starved for lube. Remember, this is a steady rest! Seems readily available too.

Opinions? Experience?

Thanks,

Richard