12" cold saw blade in a 14" machine - good to go with 1" reduced workpiece capacity?
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    Default 12" cold saw blade in a 14" machine - good to go with 1" reduced workpiece capacity?

    Just want to make sure I'm thinking this through correctly. I am tooling a 350mm cold saw, but have no experience with cold saws. Stu F. sent me a nice new 280T 350mm blade and supplies to make a sharpening jig (thanks again!). I wanted a high tooth count because a lot of my work is thinner tube - but I'd also like to have the ability to chew some heavier material on the saw. I grabbed a 12" (same 32mm hub) ~160T blade for $10 at an auction. (This is an aside, but that big lathe/boring shop was using the blade as a *slitting* saw on an arbor!!!) It gives me the coarser teeth I need, even though it's a smaller diameter. The saw should run just fine with that blade, just an inch less reach, right?

    img_20191102_141640.jpg

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    We commonly use smaller than max size blades in our cold saw with no problems

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    You will be fine. I do it all the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonPAtkins View Post
    Just want to make sure I'm thinking this through correctly. I am tooling a 350mm cold saw, but have no experience with cold saws. Stu F. sent me a nice new 280T 350mm blade and supplies to make a sharpening jig (thanks again!). I wanted a high tooth count because a lot of my work is thinner tube - but I'd also like to have the ability to chew some heavier material on the saw. I grabbed a 12" (same 32mm hub) ~160T blade for $10 at an auction. (This is an aside, but that big lathe/boring shop was using the blade as a *slitting* saw on an arbor!!!) It gives me the coarser teeth I need, even though it's a smaller diameter. The saw should run just fine with that blade, just an inch less reach, right?

    img_20191102_141640.jpg
    You win a lower SFM, same RPM, but spread the load over fewer teeth - and fewer gullets.

    Swings and roundabouts. Not always a BAD thing. Just keep the difference in mind as you approach the tasking of it.

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    Ok, great - thanks guys!

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    Bonus question - I'm obviously going to need to protect these blades from hard steel - and my shop ingests a lot of scrap yard mystery metal. Is a file test valid for knowing which steel is safe for these DMO5 blades?

    The file test is the way I usually decide whether stock sees my bimetal bandsaw blades or whether it's too hard and needs to go visit the abrasive chop saw. Will that work for this saw blade as well, or is the DMO5 even softer than the bimetal bandsaw blade teeth, and need to be babied even more in terms of the hardness of stock it sees?

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    The DMO5 cold saw blades are an M2 HSS hardened to around 64 rockwell. Make sure you have good coolant for best results.

    Bill

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    Cold saw blades get resharpened over and over. When the teeth are too small they grind them all off and cut a whole new set with a few less to compensate the circumference change. The blade is done when it won’t cut through your material. You want 3 blades in each pitch if you cut a lot. One on the saw, a spare, and the one out being sharpened. Do NOT run a dull blade! You may hear a loud bang as it shatters.


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