12 ton machinery rolls on ebay any good??
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  1. #1
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    Default 12 ton machinery rolls on ebay any good??

    Has anyone bought the 4 wheel yellow 12 ton machine dolly's that are all over ebay for sell? cost is around 40 bucks each, I would need 4... I have a 36 inch Bullard to move about 150 ft on a good cement floor....Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil in Montana View Post
    Has anyone bought the 4 wheel yellow 12 ton machine dolly's that are all over ebay for sell? cost is around 40 bucks each, I would need 4... I have a 36 inch Bullard to move about 150 ft on a good cement floor....Phil
    I haven't, but didn't realize there was some many options on there! Looks like they have steel and poly coated steel. Those poly coated skates I borrowed were pretty good, but I would love to try some with the rotating pad.

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    It's a true delight to watch an experienced rigging crew maneuver a machine that barely fits in or out. They've got skates with the rotating pads so they can be re-directed. There might be two forklifts pushing ind different places. And against all expectations the whole thing works without a scratch to the machine.

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    4 skates will get you in trouble. You will hit a high or low in the floor and one will stay behind leaving one corner un supported.

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    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    4 skates will get you in trouble. You will hit a high or low in the floor and one will stay behind leaving one corner un supported.
    This is exactly what happened to me the other day when moving my lathe. After thinking about it some later, I was thinking maybe I should have used two under the headstock and on under the the light end. The other option is to somehow secure the skates to the bottom.

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    I used 4x of these eBay ones the other day to move a piece of equipment that weighed ~31k

    12T Machinery Mover Dolly Skate 8 Rollers 26400lbs 12 Ton with 360degRotation Cap | eBay

    I had to go ~40ft on smooth concrete floor, I had 3x on the heavy end (secured), and 1x on the 'light' end. They worked, equipment moved into place no problem. The single skate on the light end walked the rubber coating off a couple of the wheels, and another skate bunched up the rubber coating on the wheels and they aren't quite round anymore.

    Pushing was done with a 6k all terrain forklift, had to pick up 4k lbs to have enough traction to push the thing, rubber wheels flat spotted and made out tough to get rolling, once it moved it was just fine.

    I haven't messaged the seller to see if they'll replace the busted up ones or not. You can also see on the swivel pad indentions from the ball bearings in places too. They were for one piece of equipment, to move one time, for that they worked OK, but not something I would want to use anywhere near their stated capacity often.

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    My friend and I have a fair number of these skates now. I think six of the 6 roller, and he just added 4 of the 8 roller for work. We have moved quite a few pieces with them, including the core of an HBM that weighs about 15-16,000 and was pushed and pulled with a forklift. I moved an 8500# VMC by myself with three of them, about 10 feet to a doorway, then at the unloading end spun it around and backed it in about 10 feet. Nothing but a 2x4 and the skates. Manually repositioned and then towed a 5500# lathe and a 4500# EDM about 20 feet there. Granted, we have not gone hundreds of feet with them, but they have worked very well. You may want to get two fixed-top and two swivel-top, to give you steering options. If they are all swivel top, you will spend all your time managing ones that want to go astray

    That said, they are Chinese, and realistically I would derate their capacity by 50%. We have the poly wheel ones, which are nicely forgiving of cracks and debris on the floor. They will take a set if left with a load on them (we've left stuff on them at least a month). But because the rollers are independent, stagger the flat spots and use them again and they level out. As with most bargain stuff, just don't expect them to last forever!

    BTW, the other thing you MUST have to go with these is a pair of hydraulic toe jacks. Again, derate their capacity by 50% and you will be quite happy (and hopefully safe). Obviously you must always be cautious when doing any rigging, especially when using material with unknown quality.

    skates1.jpg

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    Wow, I have used all sorts of rollers over my lifetime and would never consider any of that cheap shit. I'd rather roll it on pipes than chance injury or machine damage.
    Was making a service call at a shop one day and they were having a new VMC delivered. 10 tons and it was being pulled through the shop by one guy.
    Check out the Hilman Tri Glide roller system, 3 point contact so you never loose a skate and their toe jack is awesome.
    Quality doesn't come cheap, but every time you need to use it it pays for itself again. Mine are rated for 12 tons, more than I'll ever need. Best investment I ever made.
    But if your bent hell on cheap Chinese rollers, check out their cutting tools to. Probably all you really need anyway. LOL

    Mr Bridgeport

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    I have 3 of the 6 ton version and they work. Just used them to move a mill, safe and bandsaw. Even with 3, one can slide out if you are asleep at the wheel... no big deal, just kick it back under and keep going. I am here in town..you can look at them or borrow if you want.

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    Quote Originally Posted by true temper View Post
    4 skates will get you in trouble. You will hit a high or low in the floor and one will stay behind leaving one corner un supported.
    Yep, always use 3 points.

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    If the thing being moved is rigid like the base of a safe, and you go over expansion joints, even 3 can leave you with one coming out from under. Along with the usual stuff, I have found some thick leather scraps to be invaluable... put those between skate and machine, and your skate will stay put. Also good for putting on a slick floor for good purchase for leverage pry bars. Or to use as packing to keep things from rubbing, etc.

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    The best ones you can bolt the rollers together with some stretchers. I used 3 of the typical ones to move a bridgeport at home and the 3d skate walked out and ruined the mill... You have to be very careful with the location of the CG. If it's less than 5500lbs I'm using my pallet jack to move it if at all possible, if it tips it doesn't topple. To move my lathe around I put a pallet jack under the headstock and a swivel skate under the tailstock. If it's to hard to pull I use a pinch bar to inch it along. Faster than pipe, easier than skates. The 17x40 WEBB lathe is short so it sits on blocks and the mills are up on cribbing all the time, everything is easy to move (and clean under.)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nmbmxer View Post
    The best ones you can bolt the rollers together with some stretchers. I used 3 of the typical ones to move a bridgeport at home and the 3d skate walked out and ruined the mill... You have to be very careful with the location of the CG. If it's less than 5500lbs I'm using my pallet jack to move it if at all possible, if it tips it doesn't topple. To move my lathe around I put a pallet jack under the headstock and a swivel skate under the tailstock. If it's to hard to pull I use a pinch bar to inch it along. Faster than pipe, easier than skates. The 17x40 WEBB lathe is short so it sits on blocks and the mills are up on cribbing all the time, everything is easy to move (and clean under.)
    A lot of good info here! This is what I did to move my L&S. Probably around 7600. I was obviously doing it much faster two handed without a the phone in my hand. Lol!

    Moving L&S 1610 Powerturn - YouTube

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    Many good notes here! Some thick rubber or a layer of plywood on top of skates is often useful. It can be helpful to weld a bar between two skates if moving something big, and I've thought about making adjustable span bars that can bolt on to link them. Another idea--since some here are machinists!--make new rotating tops with a recess for leveling screws of a machine. That way you can "lock" the skate in one position.

    As noted before, no rigging is without risk, regardless of the quality of tools used. If you aren't willing to take your time and THINK, you should hire the professionals. I personally don't have $1000-2000 to spend on skates that get used once in a while, so I will carefully make do with something more affordable, and use redundancy and derating to my advantage.

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    I bought a set of these skates:

    MADE IN USA 12,000lbs Machine Dolly Skate Machinery Mover Machinery Roller | eBay

    They are made by a guy up in Ohio. You won't be sending your money to the ChiComs.

    As far as Mr Bridgeport's comment on recommending Hillman over these- forget it. I have used the Hillman skates many times These work better. I hate Hillman skates.

    The few machines I have moved with mine had open holes in the base, i guess for bolting to a skid. I just put a long bolt through the hole and threaded into top or the skate. This eliminates the issue with having 4 skates and loosing one. 3 skates does not always work, My mill for example has 4 pad corners and very big relief between. Another thing I have found handy is to buy some thick soft rubber from McMaster and put between the skate and the machine pad on 2 of the skates. This tends to keep them pointed in the same direction a little better. Then you can use the other two skates for steering.

    Edit: i think the op is after 12 ton not 12klbs. Check the guy’s listing he has higher rated skates.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Deal View Post
    I bought a set of these skates:

    MADE IN USA 12,000lbs Machine Dolly Skate Machinery Mover Machinery Roller | eBay

    They are made by a guy up in Ohio. You won't be sending your money to the ChiComs.

    As far as Mr Bridgeport's comment on recommending Hillman over these- forget it. I have used the Hillman skates many times These work better. I hate Hillman skates.

    The few machines I have moved with mine had open holes in the base, i guess for bolting to a skid. I just put a long bolt through the hole and threaded into top or the skate. This eliminates the issue with having 4 skates and loosing one. 3 skates does not always work, My mill for example has 4 pad corners and very big relief between. Another thing I have found handy is to buy some thick soft rubber from McMaster and put between the skate and the machine pad on 2 of the skates. This tends to keep them pointed in the same direction a little better. Then you can use the other two skates for steering.
    Man those look nice. I like the idea of thick rubber. Pieces from stall mats might work too. I really want something for just moving things around the shop. As I aquire new things, it's always nice to easily shift things around.

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    I dont see how he is making any profit on them, 12 bearings at 2 bucks each, 3 bolts and nuts at 4 bucks and a 3 dollar piece of channel, and paint about 40 bucks in parts...Phil

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    I suspect the bearings are chicom. But ??.

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    Could always perform your own upgrade on the bearings. That's just a little wrenching.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bridgeport View Post
    Wow, I have used all sorts of rollers over my lifetime and would never consider any of that cheap shit. I'd rather roll it on pipes than chance injury or machine damage.
    Was making a service call at a shop one day and they were having a new VMC delivered. 10 tons and it was being pulled through the shop by one guy.
    Check out the Hilman Tri Glide roller system, 3 point contact so you never loose a skate and their toe jack is awesome.
    Quality doesn't come cheap, but every time you need to use it it pays for itself again. Mine are rated for 12 tons, more than I'll ever need. Best investment I ever made.
    But if your bent hell on cheap Chinese rollers, check out their cutting tools to. Probably all you really need anyway. LOL

    Mr Bridgeport
    Skates and cutting tools are two different things entirely. Skates aren't rocket science.. the chicoms are just fine. Will work for 98% of guys until those guys die and they'll work for whoever gets them after that. If you're a pro rigger or machinery seller, forking out may make sense.

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