14"x40" gear head lathe lifting bar size

kb0thn · Oct 14, 2020

Hi Guys,

Picked up a 14" x 40" big bore gear head lathe at auction. Jet 1440-3PGH. It is Jet. But it is also 3"+ bore and pretty much approaching a real machine. And I have seen discussion of this lathe on this site before, so hopefully not infringing on the rules.

The manual calls for the machine to be lifted with a bar at each end. Looks like there are holes for that and little covers that swing out of the way.

Does anybody have one of these or a reasonable guess as to what size bar the hole will accommodate?

Machine is 32" deep and weighs ~4100 lbs.

My plan was to make a couple of hot roll steel bars. Tap the ends and bolt plates on to prevent the slings from slipping off should it tilt. And then some shaft collars to keep the bar from slipping where it goes through machine. Probably overkill, but would prefer to avoid surprises.

Bill D · Oct 14, 2020

JET Tools | Manuals

A quick look only found machines weighing about half of yours. I would go as big as will fit. I assume you have to make the bar at home then travel to the machine and see if it fits so you need the size ahead of time.
Bill D

32mm is supposed to be a common size.
They look to be about the same as the tailstock quill. But, who knows if the artist knew or cared about the relative sizes.

kb0thn · Oct 14, 2020

Bill D said:
JET Tools | Manuals

No results found. And I have the manual. Here is what it shows:

No specification listed on the specifications pages, either. Hence my question.

BT Fabrication · Oct 14, 2020

most likely 1" will fit no problem

Bill D · Oct 14, 2020

what taper is the tailstock, mt3 would be about 1+3/4 " diameter?
Rather then go to the trouble of making inner collars so the bars stay centered. I would slip PVC or ABS pipes over the bar. Big enough diameter they can not go into the hole on the base. Big washers on the outer ends so the lifting gear can not slip inward. Rig your bars as short as possible, without fouling things like the leadscrew. This will reduce the bending force on the bar.

richard newman · Oct 14, 2020

Is there someone at the auction site who can measure for you?

Or can you call Jet? Perhaps a long shot, but worth the nickel...

Cole2534 · Oct 14, 2020

Anecdotal at best- I picked up the heavy half of a 10k VMC with 1" stressproof.

The real question is how close you can get the slings/hooks to the frame, as they extend outward bar diameter (and strength) becomes important very fast.

Personally, I'd pass a soft sling behind the chuck and never look back. Everyone talks about how it may damage the spindle or bearings (despite technical data to the contrary), but no one shows proof. That is quite unlike the folks that tip lathes over by lifting from below the CG, there are pictures of that all over the internet.

kb0thn · Oct 14, 2020

Cole2534 said:
Anecdotal at best- I picked up the heavy half of a 10k VMC with 1" stressproof.

The real question is how close you can get the slings/hooks to the frame, as they extend outward bar diameter (and strength) becomes important very fast.

Thanks, that is good to know. I have stressproof readily available.

Jet Equipment & Tools Geared Head Engine Lathe - govdeals.com

From the looks of it, once I get it back from the wall a little bit (Johnson bar), the slings can damn near be on the lathe.

Thanks

Rob F. · Oct 14, 2020

kb0thn said:
My plan was to make a couple of hot roll steel bars. Tap the ends and bolt plates on to prevent the slings from slipping off should it tilt. And then some shaft collars to keep the bar from slipping where it goes through machine. Probably overkill, but would prefer to avoid surprises.

I would not drill and tap the ends. It is easier to just use a shaft collar on the outside of the strap also, maybe with a washer on it between collar and strap. This will let you push the straps as close to the bed as possible. Also hot roll is probably not going to let the shaft collars on easily since the hot roll is not round or 1.000"

Using straps through the bed or behind the spindle should also do it. I have moved my 6000 lbs 16cw by dropping a strap through the bed,near the chuck and sliding a 4x4 wood piece through the strap. The strap at the chuck will be most of the weight. On mine I have to slide everything to the tailstock end to keep that end down. 54" c-c measure.
Bring enough rigging to be able to do all of the above so when someone added something in the way of plan A it is easy to shift gears....

doug925 · Oct 14, 2020

I have lifted my Jet 16x60 PGH with Ø1.75" 4140ht, as that is what I had laying around.
A relatively lightweight lathe like yours or mine are nowhere near the weight it would take to bend 4140 (probably not even A36...guessing)

Doug

Brett W · Oct 15, 2020

I have used 1.25 solid bar and 1.75 x .095 DOM to lift my two lathes recently. The DOM should have been thicker but did OK. The solid bar no issues. I would lean towards the biggest you can fit through the holes. I think my new machine will pass 1.75 and it weighs about 3500lbs ish. Its a ACRA/CHIN HUNG 17x42ACH.

atex57 · Oct 15, 2020

My question is, what are you lifting it with? Crane? Forklift? Tractor loader? Etc. That will give us better ideas. I have always preferred using a strap behind the chuck and a chain or strap to the webbing of the bed. Stay above the center of gravity!

Ed.

kb0thn · Oct 15, 2020

atex57 said:
My question is, what are you lifting it with? Crane? Forklift? Tractor loader? Etc. That will give us better ideas. I have always preferred using a strap behind the chuck and a chain or strap to the webbing of the bed. Stay above the center of gravity!

Lifting with a forklift. I always prefer to stay above CG as well. I come from a crane world.

Not my first rodeo and not too concerned about it. Just wanted a guess on bar size. I ended up doing 1-1/2" stressproof. Seller just got back to me and said the holes are 2-1/4". Picking up tomorrow at 1PM and will hopefully be back home by this time tomorrow.

Thanks guys

sfriedberg · Oct 15, 2020

I've got a 16x40, slightly heavier, with similar lifting holes, and 1.25" bar was amply strong. Doubt it was anything more than 1018 (the riggers used their own).

kb0thn · Oct 17, 2020

Picked up yesterday. No photos cause I was busy. But we used a 5k piggy back type forklift to load it. Was about all the forklift wanted. Unbelievably, the lifting holes through the casting are only for lifting up at an angle. All the other directions has the bar just against sheet metal. So chaining down for transport through the lifting holes wasn't possible. Just used a bunch of nylon straps over the bed and head stock and screwed blocks to the trailer. No problems in transport.

Unload at home was a lot simpler. Just grabbed it with the telehandler.

Only other note for somebody finding this thread in the archives: The specs list the machine is 32" deep or something like that. I made my bars 48" long and they were way too long. The machine is only 21" wide where the bar goes through. 30" bars would have been just fine and gotten caught on less stuff.

Thanks all for your input

Brett W · Oct 17, 2020

WOW, didn't realize the holes were down low. The holes in my two machines are right underneath the bed on the head stock and tail stock end. Looks like it will fit in nicely next to your other machines.

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