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2mm thick boring bar clamping sleeve
- Thread starter drcoelho
- Start date
- Replies 24
- Views 2,580
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Just how much machining have you done, ...cos' that jobs little more than 1st year apprentice work.
fmari --MariTool-
Titanium
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2005
- Location
- Illinois
It is 1mm thick. Not 2 mm thick.
BoxcarPete
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2018
- Location
- Michigan, USA
I'm very green....was just wondering how tricky given the thin material....your expert advise is very much appreciated. Occurred to me I could do this:
- bore the inside diameter first
- mount it on a mandrel
- then do the outside diameter
- then cut the expanding gap using horizontal mill
Sound workable? FYI, I'm trying to get very tight tolerance on this.....
Oops...yep.
iwananew10K
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2010
- Location
- moscow,ohio
one single set up...drill,bore,turn OD, part.
Booze Daily
Titanium
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2015
- Location
- Ohio
Don’t feel like you have to make one long sleeve. You could make 2 or 3 shorter ones to span the length of your holder. It might be easier.
You don't need very tight tolerances, its a boring bar, if you stuck the 20mm bar in the 22mm hole and do the grub screws up it will work far better than you would thunk it wouldn't!
its kinda the whole beauty of single point turning, somethings just matter way less than they seam like they should!
Gotta remember man kind for well over 100+ years has been single point boring long before the notion of the luxury of a precision adapter sleeve. Kinda chicken and egg, what came first the adapter sleeve or the hole to mount it in?
So, given the 1mm thickness, I am presuming that I'll have enough metal strength to prevent distortion during OD turning? Assume hardened steel....
Mud
Diamond
- Joined
- May 20, 2002
- Location
- South Central PA
Cut a piece of bar stock at least 1" longer than the finished part. Preferably longer, if the stock is cheap and available.
Hold the extra length in your 3 jaw chuck, rough turn the ID and OD to within .010/.020 of finished sizes and only slightly longer than the finished busing size.
Finish the Id and OD to finished sizes.
Then there are at least 2 ways to finish -
1 - Part off the bushing to length and deburr. Cut the slot with bandsaw, hacksaw, etc.
2 - I you need the slot to be precise and attractive, hold he unbored and unturned stub end in your mill vise, and slot it with a slotting saw or mill cutter on an arbor, then part the bushing off the stub.
Hold the extra length in your 3 jaw chuck, rough turn the ID and OD to within .010/.020 of finished sizes and only slightly longer than the finished busing size.
Finish the Id and OD to finished sizes.
Then there are at least 2 ways to finish -
1 - Part off the bushing to length and deburr. Cut the slot with bandsaw, hacksaw, etc.
2 - I you need the slot to be precise and attractive, hold he unbored and unturned stub end in your mill vise, and slot it with a slotting saw or mill cutter on an arbor, then part the bushing off the stub.
Dan from Oakland
Titanium
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Location
- Oakland, CA
.040" wall and you are going to bore and turn it? Can I watch please?
Mud
Diamond
- Joined
- May 20, 2002
- Location
- South Central PA
Not a problem here. Why would you think so? I'd most likely start with 4130N tubing.
Add in some shim stock and I'm there....
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Surely thats getting easier as you get older Sami, as you lose the strength to tighten the chuck up hard enough to distort it :-)
(seriously a 10 thou wall ptfe tube must distort under gravity sitting on the damn bench!)
IMHO i would not make it out of anything too hard, you don't need it, you want it to bed a little hard is not needed or that helpful. Assuming your the typical lathe boring bar holder of grub screws it does pay to mill out were they are so they grip straight onto the bar, especially if your bar has flats for them to help resist rotation.
fciron
Stainless
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2009
- Location
- Louisville, KY, USA
Advice from a slightly less new guy: less time on the internet and more time making chips.
I'd make it on the end of a bar and just part it off, but the procedure you've suggested would work just fine.
I can't think of any reason your sleeve would need to be hardened, all it does is fill a space. If you're not familiar with the KISS principle, Google it.
I'd make it on the end of a bar and just part it off, but the procedure you've suggested would work just fine.
I can't think of any reason your sleeve would need to be hardened, all it does is fill a space. If you're not familiar with the KISS principle, Google it.
NC Rick
Aluminum
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2007
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Agreed, I make quite a few spacers just like that, most bigger diameter, like 2.5” OD but down to 0.040” wall. Can’t clamp the part in the lathe jaws without tons of screwing around but on the end of a bit of stock where it can be held, no problem. Some brass shim stock 1mm thick will work but it will be a pain to roll up so small.
I'm an electrical engineer by training, and computer software guy by career, so yes, I am very familiar with KISS principle
As usual, all the feedback on this forum is incredibly useful....
