#3 involuted cutter
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    Default #3 involuted cutter

    Hello
    I have a # 3 involuted gear cutter that doesnít have any depth of cut markings on it. All it says is no3-16p. 35 to 54 t. Does .134 sound like the correct depth? This is only the second time Iíve cut a gear and the first time it was stamped into the cutter. I know what all the other markings mean but Iím not sure why it doesnít have the cutter depth on it? Anyway any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tony.

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    Both 14.5 Composite and 14.5 Full Depth systems have minimum total depth of 2.157 / P

    So 16 DP would be .1348" minimum

    Ref Volume 2 of Buckingham's Manual Of Gear Design

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    Ok. Thanks so much for the information.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tgran View Post
    Hello
    I have a # 3 involuted gear cutter that doesnít have any depth of cut markings on it. All it says is no3-16p. 35 to 54 t. ...
    Seems like it should also have the pressure angle marked unless it is so old that 20 degree was not in use when the cutter was made. And the maker's name is also often marked on the cutter unless it is foreign.

    Larry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tgran View Post
    Hello
    I have a # 3 involuted gear cutter that doesn’t have any depth of cut markings on it. All it says is no3-16p. 35 to 54 t. Does .134 sound like the correct depth? This is only the second time I’ve cut a gear and the first time it was stamped into the cutter. I know what all the other markings mean but I’m not sure why it doesn’t have the cutter depth on it? Anyway any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tony.
    who did you purchase the cutter from?
    it should of been marked DP,PA & WD (D+F) which pressure angle do you require?
    is it in fact what you need?

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    it should of been marked DP,PA & WD (D+F)
    I have about a hundred B&S cutters that have no mention of PA - they are just stamped INVOLUTE (since there were OTHER tooth forms in those days - such as EPICYCLOIDAL)

    The point being 14.5 was so standardized 100 years ago that B&S assumed everyone knew that they were 14.5
    Last edited by johnoder; 09-20-2020 at 02:08 PM.

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    Hello again.
    I just realized I spelled involuted wrong. My apologies. I got the cutters at an auction several years ago. Iím not sure any two of them are the same maker lol. I do have a couple of pictures of it but havenít figured out how to post them yet. I will post when I figure out how. Itís a brown and sharp cutter but no mention of pa that I can find unless I donít know what Iím looking at. Which is quite possible. Thanks for all the replies. Special thanks to johnoder.

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    Just out of curiosity, and I know nothing about make involute gears so i guess the process is different from making traditional gears?
    When making clock wheels ( gears ) one calculates the pcd and adds a addendum to calculate the od of the blank and the proper depth of cut is where ever it cuts leaving a very slim line of the original od between the teeth.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrStretch View Post
    Just out of curiosity, and I know nothing about make involute gears so i guess the process is different from making traditional gears?
    When making clock wheels ( gears ) one calculates the pcd and adds a addendum to calculate the od of the blank and the proper depth of cut is where ever it cuts leaving a very slim line of the original od between the teeth.
    Cycloidal gearing is very different to involute, most cylcloidal cutters are "topping" where, at least in my experience, involute aren't necessarily. So where with a cycloidal the ogive ends with a point, involute is a flat (or close to it, the od which being non-contact is A-ok being a slight curve).

    When I cut gears or pinions for watches and clocks I leave a little on the OD and cut down until it "tops" then procede over say 5 teeth 180 degrees apart until the OD mics out and the do all the teeth.

    When doing a sub 1mm 6 tooth pinion cutter alignment and depth of cut have you dreaming about microns at night. Clock gears are a welcome reprieve haha. But true high confidence involute gears in high power and speed applications get right back to those microns. We horologists are lucky with our slow moving gearing, where a bit of gut level tweaking can make the difference of 50 years of service or 250, the stuff Zahnradkopf and others do here- a small change for us would be minutes of service or years.

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    Newer gears cutters are Identified, as John said older gear depending were and when made.
    https://www.ebay.com/i/153484000703?...hoCsyEQAvD_BwE

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    what is the pressure angle of the gear you want to make, don't guess
    or cut a gear and roll it with an existing gear if rolls good then your good.


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