31 Degree Angle on Table saw not desired angle

JD Tek · Feb 17, 2021

I am trying to cut a 31 degree angle from a piece of CNC'd Baltic birch on a table saw (or 149 degrees / opposite / reciprocal angle (I was able to mill the angle on the CNC using 3D tool path and ball nose, but it would be way quicker to just rip it on the table saw and not do manual tool change).

When I set the blade to 31 degrees, it is not giving me the same angle, the angle it is giving me is way less sharp and doesn't match match up with my other CNC'd component. I look up that you can make jigs for the table saw, but maybe I am doing something wrong / don't have the right angle?

What can I do to get the angle I want what am I doing wrong that is not getting me the right angle on table saw? I tried hand sanding the rest down a bit but that just seems stupid / not precise enough.

boslab · Feb 17, 2021

Don’t panic, the scale on my saw is crap also, I use a protractor, but these digital angle things like a little box are supposed to be good, my problem is even more bizarre, fixed blade no tilt and tilting fence, dangerous set up so track saw does mitres!
Mark

dalmatiangirl61 · Feb 17, 2021

Can you use the one you cut with cnc to set the angle on table saw?

JD Tek · Feb 17, 2021

I did some more reading, I think if I move the fence to the other side and flip the piece upside down, set blade to 31 degrees, then it will give me the right angle, I will go in tonight and try it and see what happens... lol I can program and run the CNC but when it comes cutting an angle on the table saw I become lost.

beckerkumm · Feb 17, 2021

When dealing with bevels on a table saw, the angle indicator will only be correct when the full moon is over the equator so check it against something else. The rip fence also needs to be parallel to the blade of course, and the table itself must be co planar with the arbor. If the table is high in front of back, the bevel will will not be straight along the edge. Often the table isn't checked as it is irrelevant for 90 degree cuts but it does matter when cutting a bevel. Dave

Tony Quiring · Feb 17, 2021

Just cut scrap, measure results, make corrections and repeat until correct.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Nerdlinger · Feb 17, 2021

You can check to make sure your 90 degree cut is perpendicular to the table by ripping a piece of stock, flipping one of the pieces away from you, and then lining up the cut edges. If a “V” or “^” is present you know your 90 is off, and then your 31 will also be off (probably the same amount). Good luck!

gustafson · Feb 17, 2021

0 degrees equals vertical, max tilt is 45 degrees.

You cannot cut the angle you desire in the orientation you show in image 1, as 90-32=58 or 13 degrees further than your saw can tilt.
If you stand it up you can cut 32 degrees, but may have difficulty keeping it aligned

JohnMartin · Feb 18, 2021

Apparently, you don’t fully understand how the angle gauge on your table saw works.

As others have implied, but not directly said, the angle gauge shows the difference versus a 90 degree blade - which is a vertical cut. It shows the amount of tilt. Set it to 0, and you get no tilt - or 90 degrees exactly. Set it to 31, and you get 90 minus 31, which is actually a 59 degree angle versus the table surface.

It can be confusing, because when you set it to 45 you get a cut that is 45 degrees off the vertical and is also 45 degrees from the table surface. But that’s the only time that happens.

Your table saw blade won’t tilt far enough to give you a cut that is 31 degrees to the top.

Illinoyance · Feb 18, 2021

Make a tall fence to support your work on edge. Set the saw blade to 31* off vertical. Use a protractor. Don't trust the angle markings on the saw.

sealark37 · Feb 18, 2021

Delta makes handy clamping jig that makes sawing vertically positioned cuts easy.

Scottl · Feb 18, 2021

sealark37 said:
Delta makes handy clamping jig that makes sawing vertically positioned cuts easy.

Except that he is trying to do a rip cut and the jig is for end work on narrower work.

However, if he were to make a similar fixture out of Baltic birch except much longer he could do that rip cut on edge. The fixture would consist of two pieces joined at a right angle with a runner that tightly fits the miter gauge groove and with provision for clamping the work.

gustafson · Feb 19, 2021

One of those gizmos came with my saw, dunno I would find it that useful

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