31 Degree Angle on Table saw not desired angle
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  1. #1
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    Default 31 Degree Angle on Table saw not desired angle

    I am trying to cut a 31 degree angle from a piece of CNC'd Baltic birch on a table saw (or 149 degrees / opposite / reciprocal angle (I was able to mill the angle on the CNC using 3D tool path and ball nose, but it would be way quicker to just rip it on the table saw and not do manual tool change).

    When I set the blade to 31 degrees, it is not giving me the same angle, the angle it is giving me is way less sharp and doesn't match match up with my other CNC'd component. I look up that you can make jigs for the table saw, but maybe I am doing something wrong / don't have the right angle?

    What can I do to get the angle I want what am I doing wrong that is not getting me the right angle on table saw? I tried hand sanding the rest down a bit but that just seems stupid / not precise enough.

    angle-1.jpg
    angle-2.jpg
    img-3081.jpg
    img-3120.jpg
    4122.jpg

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    Don’t panic, the scale on my saw is crap also, I use a protractor, but these digital angle things like a little box are supposed to be good, my problem is even more bizarre, fixed blade no tilt and tilting fence, dangerous set up so track saw does mitres!
    Mark

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    Can you use the one you cut with cnc to set the angle on table saw?

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    I did some more reading, I think if I move the fence to the other side and flip the piece upside down, set blade to 31 degrees, then it will give me the right angle, I will go in tonight and try it and see what happens... lol I can program and run the CNC but when it comes cutting an angle on the table saw I become lost.

    22.jpg

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    When dealing with bevels on a table saw, the angle indicator will only be correct when the full moon is over the equator so check it against something else. The rip fence also needs to be parallel to the blade of course, and the table itself must be co planar with the arbor. If the table is high in front of back, the bevel will will not be straight along the edge. Often the table isn't checked as it is irrelevant for 90 degree cuts but it does matter when cutting a bevel. Dave

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    Just cut scrap, measure results, make corrections and repeat until correct.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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    You can check to make sure your 90 degree cut is perpendicular to the table by ripping a piece of stock, flipping one of the pieces away from you, and then lining up the cut edges. If a “V” or “^” is present you know your 90 is off, and then your 31 will also be off (probably the same amount). Good luck!

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    0 degrees equals vertical, max tilt is 45 degrees.

    You cannot cut the angle you desire in the orientation you show in image 1, as 90-32=58 or 13 degrees further than your saw can tilt.
    If you stand it up you can cut 32 degrees, but may have difficulty keeping it aligned

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    Limited to >45 on flat stock on a tablesaw, if less, the stock must be cut on-edge it's not too large, otherwise use a router or shaper. Shallow angles are often required on table edges, moldings, frames, etc.

    If flipping up on edge:
    a)can be done freehand depending on size and experience (recommend not doing this unless very experienced, and stock likely to wobble around, resulting in burning and possible kickback).
    b)a fence vertical extension board clamped/screwed to the fence is required for larger pieces for stability
    c)use feather-boards (or store-bought gizmos) to keep stock pushed up against fence.
    d)safest and best results (again limited by size): an H-shaped saddle fixture that fits over and slides on the fence, clamp/attach stock to sliding saddle and cut.

    Be very careful cutting things on edge, there can be a lot of blade engagement, and lots of opportunity for kickback, a router or shaper will probably be better.

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    Apparently, you don’t fully understand how the angle gauge on your table saw works.

    As others have implied, but not directly said, the angle gauge shows the difference versus a 90 degree blade - which is a vertical cut. It shows the amount of tilt. Set it to 0, and you get no tilt - or 90 degrees exactly. Set it to 31, and you get 90 minus 31, which is actually a 59 degree angle versus the table surface.

    It can be confusing, because when you set it to 45 you get a cut that is 45 degrees off the vertical and is also 45 degrees from the table surface. But that’s the only time that happens.

    Your table saw blade won’t tilt far enough to give you a cut that is 31 degrees to the top.

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    Make a tall fence to support your work on edge. Set the saw blade to 31* off vertical. Use a protractor. Don't trust the angle markings on the saw.

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    Delta makes handy clamping jig that makes sawing vertically positioned cuts easy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sealark37 View Post
    Delta makes handy clamping jig that makes sawing vertically positioned cuts easy.
    Except that he is trying to do a rip cut and the jig is for end work on narrower work.

    However, if he were to make a similar fixture out of Baltic birch except much longer he could do that rip cut on edge. The fixture would consist of two pieces joined at a right angle with a runner that tightly fits the miter gauge groove and with provision for clamping the work.

  20. #14
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    One of those gizmos came with my saw, dunno I would find it that useful


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