57/64th drill bit
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  1. #1
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    Default 57/64th drill bit

    Stopped in to a local second hand metal supplier. They have lots of reclaimed metal. They also have tools, motors etc. They had a bin of new Chicago Latrobe 57/64th drill bits. I don't have many larger bits and for 2 bucks couldn't pass it up. Problem is I don't have a chuck to hold it. Would you make an adapter to hold the bit that would fit my chucks, or try and turn the bit shank to a smaller size?

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    Bigger ones I turn to 3/4 dia.

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    The shank should turn down with carbide, it should be softer than the tip.

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    Why did you stop at 1???...Phil

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    1/2 is sd drill shank size. For a bit that is really too big for the chuck it is best to make the shank triangular not round.
    Bil lD

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    I’ll probably go grab a couple more

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwill135 View Post
    I’ll probably go grab a couple more
    I hate turned down drills. I just use the proper size chuck. The only place I use SD drills is if for some reason I need to use a hand drill. For anything larger than 1" in my drill press or lathe I use taper shank drills.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazemaster View Post
    The shank should turn down with carbide, it should be softer than the tip.
    What, no whisker re-inforced ceramic inserts ?.....

    I've done it with HSS. (the morse taper part)

    You may have an "all HSS" bit, in that case, yes carbide.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    What, no whisker re-inforced ceramic inserts ?.....

    I've done it with HSS. (the morse taper part)

    You may have an "all HSS" bit, in that case, yes carbide.
    Quite often the flutes and tang are hard and the taper proper is soft. Hit it with a file and you will know. Found that out turning a 5MT to 4MT for a friend.

    Ed.

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    “Use the proper size chuck “ that’s assuming you have one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by atex57 View Post
    Quite often the flutes and tang are hard and the taper proper is soft. Hit it with a file and you will know. Found that out turning a 5MT to 4MT for a friend.

    Ed.
    Your educating me sir ?....

    Done many of them.
    They are friction/flash welded and you will find that weld quickly.

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    Well, you don't say what the shank is now so it's hard to say...

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Your educating me sir ?....

    Done many of them.
    They are friction/flash welded and you will find that weld quickly.
    If needs be.

    Most of the drills I have turned are as I described, the tang is hard then it gets softer as you get to the taper then gets harder as you get to the working area. Some are as you describe, hard line to cross, that is why I said to check them with a file. Some I have are that are so old that they have a soft tang and taper with the flutes silver brazed on, don't use them much.

    Ed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    I hate turned down drills. I just use the proper size chuck.
    I use S&D drills in steps for enlarging holes.

    If I had to actually drill a 1" hole on my lathe, it would spin the morse taper in the tailstock :-)

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwill135 View Post
    Stopped in to a local second hand metal supplier. They have lots of reclaimed metal. They also have tools, motors etc. They had a bin of new Chicago Latrobe 57/64th drill bits. I don't have many larger bits and for 2 bucks couldn't pass it up. Problem is I don't have a chuck to hold it. Would you make an adapter to hold the bit that would fit my chucks, or try and turn the bit shank to a smaller size?
    I have a few around I've WELDED to get longer shanks than I had to-hand, but it isn't easy to get 'em centered.

    "Jacobs type" chucks (or Albrecht type) - largest here is 3/4" - simply don't HOLD well above 3/4" even if you had such an animal.

    You didn't tell us what spindle you expect to use it on, nor what, if any, other options you have for said spindle or spindles, plural, besides a "chuck"?

    My case, ER, Rubberflex, or TG, for lathes, mills, and the larger drillpress. So it's fine as it is.

    PITA to turn a HSS shank, (prolly M42?) down, if only 'coz they are a nuisance to center and still get a decent grip on.

    But you might have to drop clear to 5/8" for the more common Jacobs chuck. The 3/4" inch capacity ones are bulky and not that common. And NOW you will also need three flats - as Silver & Deming's use - lest you just slip it instead of driving it. Most of my larger drills have MT shanks, anyway, so..
    Last edited by thermite; 09-29-2020 at 07:47 PM.

  21. #16
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    I think I special ordered that size. Is it the tap size for one inch acme?
    Bil lD.

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    For two bucks, I would have had a hand full of those.

    Doesn't really matter what they are the tap drill size for, they sure are a nice start to any bored hole that is supposed to be larger than that!

    Another one here, saying turn the shank down to what you can use, 3/4, or 1/2 inch.
    I would skip the flats to engage the chuck jaws.


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