60 degree cutter, whats it called?

Hardplates · Feb 23, 2020

Likely a stupid question but I need a 60 degree 3" cutter like you would run on a horizontal arbor. I want it to mount on a heavy slitting saw arbor to run in a VMC to cut the 60 degree 1.5mm pitch serrations for soft jaws for Kitagawa chucks? In the past I've used a threading bar to cut them but I would like to run off 100 or so soft jaws and a single flute is way to slow :nutter:

So what should I be searching for? I'm likely having a brain cramp but non the less its preventing me from finding and ordering the right tool

thermite · Feb 23, 2020

Hardplates said:
Likely a stupid question but I need a 60 degree 3" cutter like you would run on a horizontal arbor. I want it to mount on a heavy slitting saw arbor to run in a VMC to cut the 60 degree 1.5mm pitch serrations for soft jaws for Kitagawa chucks? In the past I've used a threading bar to cut them but I would like to run off 100 or so soft jaws and a single flute is way to slow

So what should I be searching for? I'm likely having a brain cramp but non the less its preventing me from finding and ordering the right tool

Yer only short ONE word, so yah "cramp" is likely!

60-degree milling cutter works for me...

Mind.. your call if what you need is "double angle", etc.

Regardless, once you get AWAY from " ENDmill" there's plenty of options Google, ebay, or "the usual suspects" of mill-supply houses will saturate your screen with.

Mind the bore diameter...

Hardplates · Feb 23, 2020

It's official, I'm retarded. Didn't search "milling" cause in my mind what other kind of cutter could there be?

thermite · Feb 23, 2020

Hardplates said:
It's official, I'm retarded. Didn't search "milling" cause in my mind what other kind of cutter could there be?

Cookies come to mind, but only 'coz I'm relarded.

13engines · Feb 23, 2020

Why not get a Double Angle Cutter, "Shank Type" out of carbide and run it about a thousand times faster? Clearance to work piece issues? Too extended of shank to reach full jaw depth? Got to be a way short of going 3".

Wonder how 60 deg 2-4 fl carbide chamfer might do with jaw backs facing up in a vise? All in a big long row?

Hardplates · Feb 23, 2020

13engines said:
Why not get a Double Angle Cutter, "Shank Type" out of carbide and run it about a thousand times faster? Clearance to work piece issues? Too extended of shank to reach full jaw depth? Got to be a way short of going 3".

Wonder how 60 deg 2-4 fl carbide chamfer might do with jaw backs facing up in a vise? All in a big long row?

I've tried a chamfer mill in the past and you need to go very slow to not break the sharp tip. The serrations on a Kitagawa have a very sharp crest and require a sharp root on the jaws. I would be getting into a pretty pricy solid carbide cutter to reach the 3-4" I would like to. Yes I could flip and index them on a fixture but I rather not get that involved as they are just for me. Also I am limited to 8000 rpm, the materials and type of work I do don't require a fast spindle so I never got a machine with one.

guest · Feb 23, 2020

I always just called them wheel cutters. MSC calls them double angle milling cutters.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/73201212

thermite · Feb 23, 2020

Hardplates said:
I rather not get that involved as they are just for ..me.

Ever use a shaper?

Hardplates · Feb 23, 2020

thermite said:
Ever use a shaper?

I actually own a shaper. It's setup for large internal keyways and that is how it will stay

I paid $300 for the shaper and the general rule of thumb is if a broach cost more than the shaper and there aren't many to do it goes on the shaper

Brian@VersaMil · Feb 24, 2020

If you're trying to do Jaws, just get a THREAD MILL for a 1.5 pitch. Lots of companies make inserts of every pitch. Some of the inserts are pretty wide, maybe do an inch of thread at a time, until you need to offset.

I make similar parts to the serrated grooves in a lathe jaw, that are 60 degrees and 32 threads per inch. Scored a couple of four inch long cutters off of EBAY years ago. I do my three inch long part in one pass on a horizontal mill. These were old cutters that weren't a metric pitch. A 1.5 mm pitch might be a harder search.

Mtndew · Feb 24, 2020

You want a shell mill, but with serrations.
I doubt you can find one. But you could make your own and harden it. As long as you have relief in the right areas it would work.

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Milling/Milling-Cutters/Shell-End-Mills?navid=12106251

thermite · Feb 24, 2020

Hardplates said:
I actually own a shaper. It's setup for large internal keyways and that is how it will stay

I paid $300 for the shaper and the general rule of thumb is if a broach cost more than the shaper and there aren't many to do it goes on the shaper

I'll probably peddle my 12" Sheldon in another year or two to reclaim the floor space.

Gots to confirm "usability" of it - but the adapted K&T 7" slotter, heavy as it is, takes up no more space when not mounted to the "Quartet" combo-mill than a modest-sized picnic beverage cooler.

I guess it is a "Sextet" by now already, considering the other adapted K&T fugitive, an all-angle head is about the same mass and cube, also out of the way when not needed.

Y'all are good at "making chips"? Good on yah!

By contrast, I'm about as good as they come being equipped to make chips.. then AVOIDING the actual doin' of it!

Ever' body has to have SOME sort of "achievable goal" in life, yah?

EPAIII · Feb 24, 2020

I would consider using a slitting saw that's 1.5mm thick/wide and at your 3" diameter or close to it. I would have it reground to the 60 degree profile and with a flat at the tip.

And here's a bonus; if you want to speed up the process you can mount multiple cutters on that arbor and cut several grooves at once.

Those cutters do not need to be a full 1.5mm thick/wide. You probably want to leave flats on those grooves you are cutting so you don't need the full 1.5mm cutting width. A 0.050" wide one would work just fine. And if you stack them, you will need 0.009" spacers.

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