A1-6 face plate
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Thread: A1-6 face plate

  1. #1
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    Default A1-6 face plate

    Can someone make me a A-6 face plate

    12" OD

    1.500" thick

    with 29/64th slots

    for 4, 6 & 8 mounts

    if interested I can supply more details

    tks

    jay

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    If you can get a D1-6 faceplate, remove the pins and drill holes for your mounting bolts you will be good to go. The A and D difference is bolts or pins.

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    Tks,

    on second thought it needs to be 2" thick

    with solid center so I can machine bushings for different pilot sizes

    also, needs to be wear resistant steel

    for cutting open torque converters

    tks again,

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    This should make you a perfect face plate.

    Semi Finished 12-1/2” Diameter A-6 Adapter Plate | eBay

    Semi Finished 12-1/2” Diameter A-6 Adapter Plate | eBay

    Why does it have to be 2" thick? I believe these are around 1-1/2 thick. I bought one from these guys many years ago just for that. I think the one I bought was 10.5" OD and had a thickness of around 1"-1-1/4". Plenty of thickness for a face plate.

    I had face plates of over 18" diameter and were only about 1/2" thick with a 1-1/4" flange on the OD.

    To me 2" thick is a over kill.

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    It needs to be thick because of the pilot centering bushings
    I am duplicating the flywheel to engine relationship
    Ford, GM, Nissan ect. from converter pads to start of bushings can be 1 1/2"
    and then the bushing needs 1 to 1 3/4" depth

    also the faceplate you suggest is not beefy enough

    we also remove balance weights with a burp gun while converter is held to the faceplate

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    The term 'wear resistant steel' is meaningless.

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    thank you,
    well, a steel that is machinable and more durable than cold roll

    tks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Moore View Post
    thank you,
    well, a steel that is machinable and more durable than cold roll

    tks
    if you need a wear resistant bore, make one. expecting the backplate to do everything is a mistake. we mount our workholding TO a backplate so the thing mounts on the spindle.

    why do you need the "backplate" to be you work holding? buy a backplate, mount a piece of whatever steel you like to it, and make what you need. if that is beyond your skills, explain clearly what you are trying to do to a competent machinist, and pay them for their time appropriately.

    what you have posted so far is completely inadequate to even make sense of, let alone bid on.

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    I plan to use the face plate to cut open torque converters

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    It needs to be thick because of the pilot centering bushings
    I am duplicating the flywheel to engine relationship
    Ford, GM, Nissan ect. from converter pads to start of bushings can be 1 1/2"
    and then the bushing needs 1 to 1 3/4" depth

    also the faceplate you suggest is not beefy enough

    we also remove balance weights with a burp gun while converter is held to the faceplate

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    Can you post a sketch or a photo of what you're looking for, to better understand your needs ?
    Bob

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    Here is a drawing
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bps01242022_0001.jpg  

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    7/16" slots all the way through 2" thick harder-than-mild-steel will be slow to cut. Your faceplate will weigh around 75 lb

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    yes all the way through

    but regular steel will be ok

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    Check out your PM's.
    Bob

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    I had some good discussions with Jay to figure out exactly what he needed.
    We put together a CAD drawing and exchanged that a couple of times to be sure everything was clear.
    We ended up with an overall thickness of 1.0" for the face plate, 12.75" dia.
    The overall thickness of the boss needed to be 2.75" to allow for a bore, with a step at the bottom, and the A6 taper.
    Ordered a 3" thick A36 blank, 13" diameter, that weighed 120 lbs. The job ended up about 47 lbs.
    The critical dimension were left so that Jay could mount the adapter on his lathe, and skim them to ensure concentricity.
    We made a very simple gauge to measure the taper, see sketch, out of a piece of 1/8" strip. We tipped the mill head over 7.5 degrees, and milled a step at each end. Then put the head back to zero and milled the "flats", so that a caliper resting on the flats could measure the 4.188" inch dia at the mouth of the taper. Then filed the edges a little to minimize the contact area - worked out quite well.
    We did the taper a little large, 2 or 3 thou, so Jay could skim the face to get a precise fit up.
    All worked out well and Jay seems be happy.
    Bob

    img_3690.jpg

    img_3692.jpg

    img_3706.jpg


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