Accurate hole diameter and position on a Bridgeport.
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    Default Accurate hole diameter and position on a Bridgeport.

    I need to bore some holes on a Bridgeport, 4.9152-4.9148 diameter. I have a Sunnen dial bore gauge, reads .0001 and the micrometer setting fixture so hitting the diameter should not be a big deal. The problem is I have to move the table to measure the diameter because of the length of the bore gauge. My DRO only reads .0005 so I worry about getting the table back in exactly the correct spot. I was thinking about making a good solid hard stop with a .0001 indicator on it. I'll leave Y locked and only move X. The next bit of fun is I need to flip the part and do the same diameter on the other side as well. Thinking about making a piece to bolt on the table, OD same as my bore diameter. Indicate it true to the spindle, set the part on it after boring the first side, it should be lined up with the spindle. Am I missing anything?

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    Not enough info.

    How many holes?

    Are they spaced?

    If there is only one hole, leave room to grind in to your dims.

    If there are multiple holes, you won't hit those callouts with a fifty year old Bridgey, tenth indicator or not........sorry.

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    As above plus general dimensions of the part, general location of the hole on said part, part material and importance of location relative to features vs just concentricity of the two holes being crucial but their location on the part not that critical. With that and the info requested in the above post, it might be possible to make useful suggestions.

    Denis

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    Am I missing anything?
    Temp control
    Play in the knee ways or quill
    Tram error

    Regards.

    Mike

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    How deep is the hole? Makes head tram, and need to stay at same table location, even more important/difficult if deeper.

    Ooooh, for a Moore jig bore...

    L7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
    Not enough info.

    How many holes?

    Are they spaced?

    If there is only one hole, leave room to grind in to your dims.

    If there are multiple holes, you won't hit those callouts with a fifty year old Bridgey, tenth indicator or not........sorry.
    2 parts, 7075T6, 14" long 6" wide 4" thick, one bore each side, 1.98 between bores, must be concentric, location on part +- .005 My main concern is getting the table back to 0 when I have to move it to measure the diameter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lucky7 View Post
    How deep is the hole? Makes head tram, and need to stay at same table location, even more important/difficult if deeper.

    Ooooh, for a Moore jig bore...

    L7
    I could really use a jig bore on this one. I tram the head on a 9" diameter roller bearing race with the quill extended. It ends up dead nuts true.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    I could really use a jig bore on this one. I tram the head on a 9" diameter roller bearing race with the quill extended. It ends up dead nuts true.
    .
    bridgeport table famous for not being flat especially if heavy part on it and or clamping to table distorts as you tighten clamps
    .
    just saying its not the best for high precision, just the act of tightening gibs or X,Y,Z locks it can vary each time you loosen and retighten. obviously you'd need a .0001" indicator to see
    .
    be more like a dog chasing its tail going round and round checking measuring

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    My main concern is getting the table back to 0 when I have to move it to measure the diameter.
    A PITA for sure but could you indicate over the bore each time you move the table back?

    Mount an indicator on the boring head somehow?

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    2 parts, 7075T6, 14" long 6" wide 4" thick, one bore each side, 1.98 between bores, must be concentric, location on part +- .005 My main concern is getting the table back to 0 when I have to move it to measure the diameter.
    Thanks for the additional info. Part of the reason for the added info request was to see if instead of using your BP, perhaps doing the job on a mid-sized lathe faceplate might be an option. Depending on how central along the long axis the bore might be, it sounds like this could be a good option. As a way to make precisely dimensioned, round, concentric holes in a part that lends itself to fixturing on a faceplate, it would be excellent. You probably already considered that option, but discarded it due to equipment availability concerns.

    Denis

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    2 parts, 7075T6, 14" long 6" wide 4" thick, one bore each side, 1.98 between bores, must be concentric, location on part +- .005 My main concern is getting the table back to 0 when I have to move it to measure the diameter.
    You should be able to hit those numbers. ( =/ - .005 is easy peasy.)

    I would make certain the block is SQUARE and PARALLEL before I started the boring op.

    Is there room for a construction/datum hole someplace? This would be very helpful to be sure you're back on location after the flip.

    Does this mill have a DRO? if so, your good to go.

    If not, be mindful of the backlash, and don't unlock the knee. until you're done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    2 parts, 7075T6, 14" long 6" wide 4" thick, one bore each side, 1.98 between bores, must be concentric, location on part +- .005 My main concern is getting the table back to 0 when I have to move it to measure the diameter.
    You don't need to. The diameter spec is what, +/- 0.0004, right?

    As far as I can tell you don't have an absolute postion called out to any particular precision, only a diameter spec.

    So you mount the part, bore it to within ten or 20 thou of final size, using a dial caliper. Take the part out and
    measure the close tolerance diameter with the bore gage. Zero the table using your DRO. Then take the
    final cut, calculating based on the bore gage reading. Yes you will move the hole location. But it willl be on size.

    Tougher part is flipping it over and mounting it to your boss.

    I suggest an aternative: a tooling plate with three dowel pins. This permits removing the part to measure and
    getting it right back. Sounds like you are boring from both sides because you don't have enough Z travel, or are
    both holes blind?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMF_TomB View Post
    .
    bridgeport table famous for not being flat especially if heavy part on it and or clamping to table distorts as you tighten clamps
    .
    just saying its not the best for high precision, just the act of tightening gibs or X,Y,Z locks it can vary each time you loosen and retighten. obviously you'd need a .0001" indicator to see
    .
    be more like a dog chasing its tail going round and round checking measuring

    It's what I have, I'll have to make it work... Thought about doing it in the lathe on a faceplate. The bores are for ceramic bearings and need to have a flat bottom. This means you need to change tools to do the bore closest to the face plate. I could qualify the second tool in the area between the bearing bores. No way to measure the second bore till I remove it from the lathe, it's a bit late to do any adjustment then!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    You don't need to. The diameter spec is what, +/- 0.0004, right?

    As far as I can tell you don't have an absolute postion called out to any particular precision, only a diameter spec.

    So you mount the part, bore it to within ten or 20 thou of final size, using a dial caliper. Take the part out and
    measure the close tolerance diameter with the bore gage. Zero the table using your DRO. Then take the
    final cut, calculating based on the bore gage reading. Yes you will move the hole location. But it willl be on size.

    Tougher part is flipping it over and mounting it to your boss.

    I suggest an aternative: a tooling plate with three dowel pins. This permits removing the part to measure and
    getting it right back. Sounds like you are boring from both sides because you don't have enough Z travel, or are
    both holes blind?
    May as well be blind, they have a shoulder for the bearing to sit on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thunderjet View Post
    You should be able to hit those numbers. ( =/ - .005 is easy peasy.)

    I would make certain the block is SQUARE and PARALLEL before I started the boring op.

    Is there room for a construction/datum hole someplace? This would be very helpful to be sure you're back on location after the flip.

    Does this mill have a DRO? if so, your good to go.

    If not, be mindful of the backlash, and don't unlock the knee. until you're done.
    8 odd shaped triangular holes are through the part already. All the outside machine work has been done. All crazy angles except where the brake caliper bolts on and at the top 90* to where the camber block bolts on. The top area is only 2" wide and the caliper mount pads are 1" wide. Yes I have a DRO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    It's what I have, I'll have to make it work... Thought about doing it in the lathe on a faceplate. The bores are for ceramic bearings and need to have a flat bottom. This means you need to change tools to do the bore closest to the face plate. I could qualify the second tool in the area between the bearing bores. No way to measure the second bore till I remove it from the lathe, it's a bit late to do any adjustment then!
    So, you couldn’t bore the first hole to size and depth.

    Remove part from the faceplate and turn a stub on the faceplate the same diameter as the bearing race or a couple tenths under .

    Replace part on the faceplate using the stub for concentric location of the first bore.

    Bore the second hole to depth and diameter?

    Denis

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    Regardless of how you do it, you ought to nail down with the customer under what conditions they are going to measure. Given the tolerance, I would expect a temp-controlled metrology room. As such, you sort of need to have a temp-controlled shop. 3* F swing either way will blow your +/-.0002" tolerance, if I have the math right.

    Regards.

    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Keeley View Post
    A PITA for sure but could you indicate over the bore each time you move the table back?

    Mount an indicator on the boring head somehow?
    Good Idea. I can make a bit to hold my 0-.005-0 .0001 B&S indicator in one of the other boring bar holes in the boring head.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Finegrain View Post
    Regardless of how you do it, you ought to nail down with the customer under what conditions they are going to measure. Given the tolerance, I would expect a temp-controlled metrology room. As such, you sort of need to have a temp-controlled shop. 3* F swing either way will blow your +/-.0002" tolerance, if I have the math right.

    Regards.

    Mike
    All good points. I hold my shop at 65* No metrology room though. Lucky though the customer is reasonable and not going to go crazy about a tenth or two.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moonlight machine View Post
    Good Idea. I can make a bit to hold my 0-.005-0 .0001 B&S indicator in one of the other boring bar holes in the boring head.
    Yup, what I was thinking but wasn't sure what boring head you have.

    My cheap Criterion has 3 holes in the bottom...


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