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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrandonCarriveau View Post
    Attachment 271825Attachment 271824
    I need to balance 2 hand wheels for a remote camera system. The hand wheels have to be perfectly balanced in order to function correctly. Does anybody have any suggestions on what is the best way to go about this?
    Why do the hand wheels need to be "perfectly balanced in order to function correctly"? Are they going to be turned manually? If not why a handle?

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    Brandon said it's for a customer.

    Brandon, why not make them like the originals? They look nice and are balanced. Or maybe not, and that's why you're building new ones?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon B. Clarke View Post
    Why do the hand wheels need to be "perfectly balanced in order to function correctly"? Are they going to be turned manually? If not why a handle?
    See post #10.

    These mechanisms are so sensitive to input (by design) that the handwheel will rotate until the heaviest part (the handle) is at the bottom if not held. It needs to be both sensitive and almost infinitely controllable. The only way to accomplish that is with balanced handwheels.

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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptsmith View Post
    Brandon said it's for a customer.

    Brandon, why not make them like the originals? They look nice and are balanced. Or maybe not, and that's why you're building new ones?
    I'm actually attempting to modify ones the customer purchased. The ones on the Ronin are made out of aluminum and the customer wants the Stainless ones as backups in case they fail in the field.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrandonCarriveau View Post
    I'm actually attempting to modify ones the customer purchased. The ones on the Ronin are made out of aluminum and the customer wants the Stainless ones as backups in case they fail in the field.
    It's a "teeter-totter".

    Remove the handle and fastener, and weigh them. Calculate the volume of the drilled hole where the handle attaches, and subtract the weight of that material. That's how out of balance you are.

    Stainless Steel is 7.9 grams per cubic centimeter or 4.6 ounces per cubic inch. Add/subtract material from the appropriate side.

    That will get you pretty close. The distance from the center of the weight (added or removed) will affect the balance- it's a lever with the center as the fulcrum. I'd start with lightening holes in the handle-side spoke.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon B. Clarke View Post
    Why do the hand wheels need to be "perfectly balanced in order to function correctly"? Are they going to be turned manually? If not why a handle?
    They can be used both manually and with a remote. Which method is used depends on what the director is looking to do I guess. I don't actually use the equipment (half of the time I don't even know what this stuff is or even what it does), I just attempt to fix it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrandonCarriveau View Post
    I'm actually attempting to modify ones the customer purchased. The ones on the Ronin are made out of aluminum and the customer wants the Stainless ones as backups in case they fail in the field.
    Not pretty but perhaps something similar to this bolted onto the back side with stainless button head screws?

    Tungsten Washers - 7 Grams Each - STM Power Sports

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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    You can buy balanced handwheels, not terribly expensive.
    I priced them at $500.00 a piece. If you have knowledge of cheaper ones, please feel free to share.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrandonCarriveau View Post
    I priced them at $500.00 a piece. If you have knowledge of cheaper ones, please feel free to share.
    Ouch! Did you look at handwheel mfrs, or just call co that made the gizmo? I forget name of co I purchased from last year, just searched net and found what I needed, had to buy 2 just to meet minimum $ order. Not seeing mention of diameter of your handwheels.

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    Sounds like not much loading. I would cut off or drill out one spoke. I would drill out the rim opposite the handle as needed. You could pack the holes with tungsten shot as needed.
    Bill D

    Longacre 15" Drilled Aluminum Steering Wheel 56838

    Steering Wheel, Tourist Trophy, 14" wood rim, thick, matt aluminium/drilled spokes

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    Submarines used mercury as ballast that could be pumped around to balance the boat. Not really a good idea in a shop these days with safety rules and such like.
    Bill D

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    Stupid suggestion time - make a pair of handwheels without a fixed handle, say if they have to be manually adjusted a handle has to be inserted in to a hole - easy and simple to make, ……..and not $500 a pop.

    Downsides are up to you.

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    We have designed and built equipment like this for a Camera / Production house in Burbank. The handwheels mount to encoders with virtually no drag. This requires balanced handwheels and an adjustable drag along with digital filtering of the quadrature encoder inputs.

    It is a fun industry to do work for and our stuff has been used to film the coin toss at the last Superbowl along with everything from bob sled runs at the Nagano Olympics to the Oscars to the Wheel of Fortune show.

    One of my young engineers recently complained that he had to listen to some old guy he had never heard of named Neil Diamond while he was training the camera operator on how to memorize tally points (camera shot presets).

    Young uns . . .

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill D View Post
    Submarines used mercury as ballast that could be pumped around to balance the boat. Not really a good idea in a shop these days with safety rules and such like.
    Bill D
    Must have been a long time ago. In US subs these days, mercury is strictly forbidden, because if any spills, it will be impossible to retrieve.

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    Starrett used to sell mercury filled plumb bobs...

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    How about another research sub like the NR1? they could even leave on the training wheels
    Bill D

    American submarine NR-1 - Wikipedia

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    So now going back to a counter weight glued or pinned to the back side rim

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrandonCarriveau View Post
    Attachment 271825Attachment 271824
    I need to balance 2 hand wheels for a remote camera system. The hand wheels have to be perfectly balanced in order to function correctly. Does anybody have any suggestions on what is the best way to go about this?
    Add another circular wheel behind those wheels and distribute the weight on the back wheel to balance the wheel in front. The wheel in back can be black and/or
    shielded with a plastic cover to disguise it if necessary. That way you won't have to do all kinds of hacks on the wheels with the handles.

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    Here's something I did once and it worked well.

    Find the heavy point. Opposite, and in your case probably on the back side, drill a dimple. This would be a started hole made with a drill bit but that never penetrates, so it has a 118 degree (or 135) angle at the bottom.

    Melt a fishing sinker in a big throwaway metal spoon. Pour the molten lead into the dimple. Don't touch or disturb it until it dries. It won't stick to your handle, but if you carefully mark its location you can then superglue it in.

    Try to design your lead blob so it has a little excess weight and becomes the heavy point. Then you can hold it up to a running belt sander and just kiss off a tiny bit of weight at a time until it comes into balance.

    metalmagpie

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    McMaster Carr has 4 spoke machinable hand wheels $20-$50.The handle is positioned inline with one of the spokes.Start cutting the backside/sides of the inline spoke until it is in balance.Even removing the spoke won't effect the strength enough to matter in this application.


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