Advice regarding "malleable iron" - suppliers and type

I'm restoring an old Southbend 13" lathe manufactured in 1968 (large dials, red background on signage). Unfortunately, it spent it's production years in just that, "production", and has been about beat to death - most noticeably, the top of the compound. I've gotten one quote to spray weld and build it up - at a cost 4X what I paid for the machine and, for that matter, I probably paid 2X what the thing is actually worth anyway.

I've checked, unceasingly, on Fleabay and, for the 13" machines, they're just NOT widely available. I'm a mediocre arc/torch welder so I've resigned myself to lacking the welding comprehension to learn the craft of spray welding myself.

I'm gonna order a piece of raw stock and replicate the top of the compound but need advice as to what material? I'm assuming a malleable iron. I will be replicating the machined dimensions (the dovetail and the screw & bearing bores) on a Deckel FP1. Also, what is the best supplier for this stock - being a tiny order, as such?

All assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!

Get some dura bar cast iron. Or just gray cast iron. MSC sells it,as do many other suppliers. The lathe compound was not made of malleable iron. It was made of gray cast iron. Clamps,the large C clamps ,are made of malleable iron since it can bend instead of just breaking. No reason for the compound to be made of that.

As little as a compound moves,you really could get by just making it from mild steel. Use hot rolled if you do. Cold rolled warps as you machine it. Gray cast iron is used because of the graphite content,which is a built in lubricant. But,you never move the compound much compared to the cross slide,carriage,tailstock,etc..

One supplier who sells durabar in any quantity is petersonsteel.com in Massachusetts.
-Marty-

We were just talking about Dura-Bar in the Reconditioning Forum.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...g-inspection/info-dura-bar-cast-irion-296659/

Others say they order from Speedy Metals Sale Items

If it's just the top T-Slot, Georges Idea about using steel is a good idea. I would epoxy it on plus bolt it on.

eben: I seem to recall that I have an old compound off an old lathe that was junked out years ago by a buddy. If I can find it and you want it, you can have it for the shipping. I'm not in the shop this morning, but will see if I can dig it out and measure it up. I seem to recall that it was off a small SB, not sure.

JH

Are you going to return the lathe to useability or restore it to its original appearance? If its useability, I would make one out of something like StressProof. Use a design much like the modern machines.

Tom

G2 from Durabar would probably be as strong as the original.
But I would not hesitate to use Ductile if you really wanted stronger. Maleable is not made so much anymore, as Ductile is generally better for most of the same applications.
G2 (Class 40 gray iron) is, again, most likely stronger than SB's original which was probably only class 35 or even 30. The advantage of gray iron (whatever class) over nodular (Ductile) is slightly better inherent dry lube qualities as others have described due to the free graphite.

MSC carries (brokers) ductile and several classes of gray iron. In a small chunk for a compound they might even be competitive, though it is most likely available cheaper elsewhere.

smt

Grey iron has inherent vibration damping qualities that make it's use in machine tools advantageous.

For such a small part as a compound,I doubt that any vibration damping from a steel part would be noticeable,though you are correct about cast iron damping vibes. The main advantage is in wear resistance. But,again,not that much movement in a compound.

Lodge & Shipley used CAST STEEL compounds for years and years. Those are the ones that did not get broken.

Maybe you can see the curly chips where I was reworking the tee slot

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/johnoder/24 X 168 LS/Comp Rest Parts/DCP_1027.jpg

GUYS! THANKS so much for all the GREAT advice!

I'll try and post some pics as I get this project going. I am looking to restore the machine to original. The compound that was made for the machine has just been crashed one too many times and the top of the tool slot has gotten pretty buggered up to the extent that "dressing it" on the mill is IMHO going to thin it out too much. It works fine just like it is but looks horrendous. I'm preparing to break the whole machine down and repaint it and hate going to all that trouble only to have that work blighted by the top of the compound.

THANKS AGAIN, for all your good advice - I'll keep you posted!