Advise on leveling an engine lathe

Terry Z · Dec 14, 2016

Hi,
We picked up a very clean and nice running HWACHEON 18 inch engine lathe. We want to level it out and start using it A.S.A.P. We had to buy the leveling bolts as they did not come with the machine. Our maintenance department will do the leveling. I have checked out YouTube and it seems there is about a hundred ways to do this. We do have a hi-precision Starrett bubble level. Anyone with some advise on how they did their machine would be most helpful. Thanks

Spyderedge · Dec 14, 2016

Did you even do an online search?

My $0.03 (sorry, inflation) is that it doesn't have to be level unless you're dealing with coolant flow issues, in which case either the lathe or coolant pan has to be topped towards the coolant drain in whichever location it is. Set up the lathe and take a cut, adjust the feet till it turns true and you're done. A level is not needed unless you choose to use it. Smoke 'em if you got 'em I guess.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

Garwood · Dec 14, 2016

Different machines are different. You kinda have to look at the machine and finger out where to start. Pick 3 or 4 screws and get it level both ways. snug remaining screws while watching level to bear equally.

If your lathe is long and flimsy (mori clones are not very heavy) it may be a bit of a wet noodle until you get all the feet touching.

You can put the level on the carriage if there's a machined area or use two pins between the ways. I use a couple wrist pins from a large diesel engine.

ewlsey · Dec 14, 2016

How long is it?

All I do is put the level on the cross slide ways. Run the carriage from one end to the other. Adjust until there is no twist. Bring the remaining screws down until that have some bearing.

If it's a long bed machine, so longer than 40" between centers, you also need to check level the other way to make sure there is no dip or crown in the ways.

It should take less than 2 hours to level most lathes.

Bobw · Dec 14, 2016

Spyderedge said:
My $0.03 (sorry, inflation) is that it doesn't have to be level unless you're dealing with coolant flow issues, in which case either the lathe or coolant pan has to be topped towards the coolant drain in whichever location it is. Set up the lathe and take a cut, adjust the feet till it turns true and you're done.

I pretty much mostly agree.. Level doesn't mean shit, its just a nice convenient spot to start getting the machine square..

On a long floppy machine, the level will get you close to square down the bed, and then should let you spot any twist across the ways.
Get that close and then do your final tweaks while playing with an indicator and taking test cuts.

If its not level when you're done, who cares, the level did its job by getting you to a nice starting point(which was hopefully close).

Richard King · Dec 14, 2016

Order a manual and follow the instructions. I could go into ways to do it, but just google Leveling and aligning a lathe and put Practical Machinist in the question. This has been written about dozens of times on here.
When finished Google 2 collar test Practical Machinist.

Bill D · Dec 14, 2016

From what i have read here start with a carpenters level to get it close then switch to a more accurate one.
Also make sure as you adjust things that it does not end up too high. the tendency is to lower the bolts down to adjust and most people do not raise them up at all in the process. It is better if the bolts extend out as little as possible to increase rigidity.
Bil lD.

n2zon · Dec 14, 2016

When I leveled mine, it moved off level over a couple of days. It took a few iterations for it to stay perfectly level. I never troubled to figure out exactly why...but it's stayed put ever since.

John

Terry Keeley · Dec 14, 2016

Here's how I did my Emco:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...11-324468/?highlight=emco+headstock+alignment

Glenn Brooks · Dec 14, 2016

I found once I leveled my lathe, after two weeks I should go back and recheck it, and usually adjust it again. the heavier the bed, the longer it takes for the casting to change shape. And these things will change shape, given enuf time... also, I check level every spring as the foundation moves around each winter.

dian · Dec 14, 2016

concerning the test cuts: it will depend on the tool you use. you might set it up to cut true with some extra sharp cutter in aluminum, but what good does it do? as soon as you go to your usual inserts in steel, the long end will be pushed off.thats why i like to go a little undersize on the long end. i have even set up the compund on a lathe to cut true with my go to dnmg 06 insert and dont move it. i also always wondered what the idea is behind the "two collars". to save time? doesnt work. just cut a bar and be done. you get higher rigidity as well.

Tyrone Shoelaces · Dec 15, 2016

This has been a really popular subject of discussion over the years. If you've got an evening to spare you could go back over old threads regarding the levelling of lathes.

I've had my say more times than enough.

Regards Tyrone.

Tyrone Shoelaces · Dec 15, 2016

Sorry duplicate post.

Regards Tyrone.

Terry Keeley · Dec 15, 2016

"Levelling" it will only make sure it's straight and free of twists relative to mother earth.

Checking the headstock and tailstook alignment relative to the bed will make sure it cuts straight within the accuracy of the machine.

Richard King · Dec 15, 2016

I wasn't going to say anything, but hell...Even as some have pointed, leveling a machine doesn't need to be perfect because it's hard to level a lathe on a ship, you do need to get it pretty close to level long ways to ensure proper lube oil distribution in the headstock and way surfaces though. If your going to use coolant then I would level the machine long way so the coolant drains to the left. A simple way to "align" using a level on the bed to eliminate the twist is to set the level on the cross slide top it is flat or on the compound and level the machine so the level reads level and then crank (move) the saddle down the bed as this will follow the tool path. No need to screw around with 1 2 3 blocks and picking them up and setting them down in the exact place, etc.

I have been aligning lathes for over 50 years as a professional machine rebuilder. If you want me to talk to your men look at my website to get the number. Handscraping.com or private message me and I can give you my direct number. Another thing to think about is if your machines headstock is setting on flat ways then the head might need to be aligned to the bed ways too, especially if the machine has crashed. A lot to talk about to get it right. :-) Rich

beech · Dec 16, 2016

Here is the classic version of a pro:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/best-way-align-lathe-240678/
See post #8

Mike C. · Dec 17, 2016

Level isn't so hugely as important as the fact all the feet are bearing weight evenly. The lathe can be at a significant angle in any direction, as long as the ENTIRE lathe is on that angle. Get hold of a light lathe with a 25ft long bed and this will become very obvious. On a short stout machine with only a set of headstock and tailstock feet, you just need to make sure the bed is level at both ends, in the middle, and let it ride. On something with four or eight pedestal feet between the headstock and tailstock ends, you can get all kinds of swags and high spots, each of which will cause the lathe to cut a taper and/or chatter like hell.

The CNC lathe we just pulled out and scrapped had about 1" thick by 4" diam round steel pucks under the screw adjusters to keep them from digging into the concrete over time, due to vibration. Makes the screws easier to turn, too.

otrlt · Dec 17, 2016

Hello Terryz,
Make your adjustments incrementally and you'll be fine. Make sure that you use steel leveling pads approx. 3-4" round or square pads at least 1" thick. Check your level from time to time, an unleveled lathe will wear prematurely.
otrlt

vonleyser · Dec 18, 2016

Garwood said:
(mori clones are not very heavy) it may be a bit of a wet noodle until you get all the feet touching.

Just my $.02

Would hate to see your comment if they had bought something else,
as far as I have seen the HWACHEON,WACHEON,WEBB,CADILLAC or any of the other copies of this lathes
(Mori Clone) might be copies but I don't think much if any metal was spared.

Now if you compare it to say a Pacemaker or some old Iron you might me closer on your assumption.

rons · Dec 18, 2016

I have used these. Think they are better than a lot of stock level adjust feet (or bolts).

Advise on leveling an engine lathe

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