Aligning parts in a snow tapping machine

I recently got my snow tapping machine running and was wondering what other Tapping machine owners are doing to align parts directly under the tap. I want to make sure my part is dead center with the hole to avoid taps breaking. As an example I want to make a small fixture plate with a large number of holes to be tapped. But the idea of Setting up the plate for each hole would take a lot of time it would seem.
Are y’all using some sort of center alignment tool for each hole?

Also if anyone has any #4 Tapping collett for the snow machine I would be interested in buying some.

I've only used it to tap qty (1) hole per part.
Put the part in the vice, send the tap down (with spindle motor off)
and air pressure low.
Tap will center in hole, moving the vise & part to be aligned.
tighten T-slot bolts to lock vise in alignment.
Trip the safety to back the spindle up, punch on the spindle,
and go to work.

Thanks thats helpfull

Frankljs said:

I recently got my snow tapping machine running and was wondering what other Tapping machine owners are doing to align parts directly under the tap. I want to make sure my part is dead center with the hole to avoid taps breaking. As an example I want to make a small fixture plate with a large number of holes to be tapped. But the idea of Setting up the plate for each hole would take a lot of time it would seem.
Are y’all using some sort of center alignment tool for each hole?

Click to expand...

There's really nothing to worry about. I've tapped thousands (mostly in Aluminum) of 1/4-20, 10-24 and 6-32 holes on a Snow Tapper. I mostly used the small 3 or 4" Hienrich vise. The one you can set on its side if you want. That or the standard 6". Set your table so the tap is just above the work, and hold the vise lightly and let the tap find the hole. Your No. 4's may take a little more care, but a small light vise is the trick if the part(s) suit. The foot pedal really helps by keeping your hands free to tend to the business at hand.

You get it working right and dialed in, they're really rather productive at what they do. Doesn't surprise me really, seeing as they're purpose built for tapping.

If you have multiple parts with a single hole location, do what DD said. Line'er up good once and lock it down.

Sorry it's been so long since I've owned one I can't remember any setting tips. Hopefully all your instruction placards aren't painted over or missing. They were pretty helpful in getting the most out of it.

I'm thinking you could make a table sitting on top of the table, raising the part a few inches.
On the table surface, install a drill bushing larger (slightly) than the tap size (O.D.)
Make a spring loaded step pin, o.d. to SF into that drill bushing.
Smaller part on top is the tap drill size.
Make it capable of being pushed down at least 1" below the surface.

This you will align with the tap, and firmly bolt this table down.

Using the air vise connection, setting switch to IIRC #1 Air applied with foot pedal, retained
on until tap is all the way back up and retracted.
Arrange a hold down that looks like a stripper for a ironworker punch.

So you would slide the part until the hole set's over the pin, hit the foot pedal.
Clamp locks plate down (you can even let go of it at this point) tap descends, and pushes
pin down, into the recess.

If you don't like the idea of the center of the tap pushing on the pin you could rig a small
air cylinder to push the pin up/down, and tie it into the machines "logic".