2nd picture you posted:
the left part indeed looks laser cut (tabs are a give away), the right part seems to have mill finish
if you want to match the original part, I suggest you copy their process and laser cut it from a sheet, no milling, if you need to machine it, you need to get the surface finish as close to what a rolled sheet looks like before you send it out to be anodized, if you need to sand it - use non silicon containing abrasives, they'll contaminate the surface and you'll end up with either a matte surface or dirty looking (like the G3 part in the attached picture), aluminum oxide sand paper is fine, use WD40 when sanding - WD40 works really well for this, water or water soluble oils do not, they may, but WD40 will work for sure
if you decide to go the laser cutting way, I'd suggest keeping them nested in the sheet and don't break them out, send the whole sheet to the anodizer and brake out your parts when they are done, size the tabs so they have 1mm cross section minimum - they'll need to carry the current to the part - racking a sheet like that can be much easier for the anozier than handling individual thin parts with tiny features, but you need to make sure there is no dross around the cuts, some lasers will leave black oxides on the cut edge - you'll have to clear those before you send it to anodizer
comments regarding the 1st pic, I understand that the parts I marked G0 and B0 are originals you want to match your parts to:
G1 - mill finish, tool marks visible, you may ask the anodizer to etch it longer to remove those, but results may vary depending on the alloy and the composition of their etching tank, I don't recommend relying on the etching approach to match the surface finish - not reliable, a lot can depend on the batch of the alloy (including temper), it is not uncommon for extruders to screw things up with may ruing your work
G2 - difficult to tell from that picture, may be etched too long, too thick oxide, too long in the gold dye, reduce etching time to avoid the matte surface finish, less time in the dye will make it lighter, so will reducing the anodizing time (thickness), 15 micron is enough to reach good blue and gold dye saturation, it may be easier to control the dye uptake with a thinner oxide than the other way around, thicker oxide tends to absorb the dye quicker which may lead to oversaturation
G3 - dirty part, not enough degreasing and/or etching to remove the contamination, may not be the same gold dye used for the other parts, different aluminum alloy also possible, not all alloys anodize the same, which has an affect on the dye uptake and resulting hue
B1 - difficult to tell, seems ok, might be slightly glossier than the B0, hence the slight difference in hue, too thick oxide may also make it look a bit "bluer" than the B0 sample
B2 - may suffer from similar issues as the G3 (same batch?)
another note - racking, holding on to, thin parts with tiny features is very difficult without purpose made rack, they are prone to loosing contact, which may lead to lighter parts (low oxide thickness), as I said before - I'd consider keeping then nested in the sheet VERY seriously
edit: forgot to attach the picture: