another (proactive) CRT/LCD retrofit -- partially working!!

Hi all,

I'm working on another project here, and though i'd ask for a bit of help. I don't have much experience w/ video signals and all the different converters on the market, but I feel like i'm close on this one, and looking for some help to finish it up.

I have a few injection molding machines, they are older, and one tube went out last year -- and it has been a problem ever since (see my other thread). Trying to be proactive on my other machine, I took it apart to figure out what type of monitor is in it and evaluate how i'm going to swap it to a lcd.

The machine in question is a Niigata 110EU. It has a 15" tube made by toshiba (model e2971b22). The board looks pretty simple this time - the signal input is 6 wire (RGBESV) my translation is Red Green, Blue, Earth, Horizontal Sync and Vertical Sync... Looking online, I found that the CGA,EGA,YUV GBS8200 model converters should be able to help me get the signal to VGA.

I bought the GBS8200 - and wired it in. After some screwing around with the horizontal wire on P11 I got it to semi-work. FYI, pin 11 on gbs8200 is (gnd, gnd, vs, hs, s, B, G, R). I now have the horizontal sync going to the HS position as opposed to the S pin..

See this video for what is happening:
[video]https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Xems_L4XNBztF6-qFsnsOdiFmBFoMlPR[/video]

My assumption is that my signal is ~15khz. I'm thinking that the gbs8200 initially boots into 15khz processing, but the automatically switches to 24 - 30khz to lock onto a signal. It must not figure out my that my signal is 15khz and just jumps to the next auto sync... I've read that you need to have 2A on your 5v signal -- i have a 5v 4a power supply. I've read that the caps can be junk, so I am going to replace them next on the gbs8200.

I'm opening to buying one of the fancier converters (XRGB mini, OSSC, etc) but figure may as well give this one a try, since I already have it. And it looks close.

Also, if you have any interest in solving a giant pain in my a$$ look at my other thread.

Thanks a ton for your help. I'm learning a lot. Tinkering is fun. next on my list will be to replace the monitor on my haas.

Hi Updog,

Old thread but did you get this figured out?
I am in the process of doing the exact same thing on our Niigata NE55UA Molding machine and was looking for some feedback.

Thanks,
Alec

I know it’s a common problem, saw my son lugging an old tube tv up to the third floor, apparently getting an old game to run on a LED is also a problem with the RF out being the only signal, RGB is easier
Mark

I ran into this problem decades on a process control system for the chemical industry. I don't recall the vendor that we used, but there is a wiki that claims to have a list of 15khz monitors. Not sure it is maintained.

List of modern monitors that support 15 kHz analog RGB signals - 15 kHz RGB Video

boslab said:

I know it’s a common problem, saw my son lugging an old tube tv up to the third floor, apparently getting an old game to run on a LED is also a problem with the RF out being the only signal, RGB is easier
Mark

Click to expand...

If someone has a fix for that I'm all ears. I tried using one of those universal XVGA boxes on a Dynapath that has RF output, it wouldn't refresh properly.

Hey all,
I got this one figured out. Still never got that Arburg screen though. Very puzzling.

For the niigata, all those video game boards and cheap RGB converters are junk. Don't waste your time.

I ended up buying a tsubis multisync lcd panel. These guys make great products in fact their universal system hasn't had issues with numerous applications that I've tried.

Niigata, Haas, Cincinnati milacron, fadal etc..

Hi Updog molding, I have the same issue with the Arburg 221 monitor not working. Could you please let me know how much the tsubis cost you and did you get it from Germany or somewhere local. Thanks.

eBay. Change your region to Germany. Start your search there. Look for multisync tft monitor

You will see some made by tsubis and adm electronics.

These are your best bet. Estimated $300 plus shipping to get to USA.

They are nice units. And far superior to the junk that folks use aimed at arcade machines. Ping me if you need anything else. Hope to help