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Anti-sieze compound types and uses

Bill D

Diamond
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Location
Modesto, CA USA
I need to buy another jar of antisieze. My old tin with a brush top is almost used up. For general use spark plugs, battery terminals, exhaust pipes what is recommended these days. I know some is called sensor safe for O2 sensors etc on cars. High nickel, copper, not stated or what. My existing jar was found 30 years ago half full washed up on the beach and I can not read the printing to get a brand. It is better then what I had bought before. I think the overall color on the can is a copper background color.
Bill D
 
I need to buy another jar of antisieze. My old tin with a brush top is almost used up. For general use spark plugs, battery terminals, exhaust pipes what is recommended these days. I know some is called sensor safe for O2 sensors etc on cars. High nickel, copper, not stated or what. My existing jar was found 30 years ago half full washed up on the beach and I can not read the printing to get a brand. It is better then what I had bought before. I think the overall color on the can is a copper background color.
Bill D

"Never Seize" MbS2 in a sort of grease was put up that way in brush-cap tins with SILVER(ey) background labels about 30-40 years ago. Permatex/Loctite owns them now.

O2 sensors, but "not only" .... later saw Copper-laden and Nickel-laden goops become common.

I need to stock those three just because of OEM recommendation diffs between various motor cars and Diesel gasket fitting. Not cheap, but they do seem to "keep" for long years if not contaminated.

AFAIK, there are even MORE out there amongst speciality suppliers, most of the others even more gawdawful expensive.

Auto parts stores have most of them. Just put them into the drawer, then use whatever the gadgetry requires. Near-as-dammit "lifetime" suppy aven in a small tubes, so it isn't worth a lot of agonizing nor chasing after.

No klew what happens if you use the "wrong one", either, but with 4 O2 sensors on the one 4.2 V8 alone, I wasn't inclined to play R&D lab.
 
I learned to use nickel based antiseize when I had a sailboat; aluminum doesn't really get on with stainless but dislikes copper more, so I settled on the nickel based. If you don't need high temp, anhydrous lanolin works well; cheap, too.
 
Bill D --

There are a number of companies marketing a number of different types of anti-seize compound, and those companies usually provide good information as to the types of jobs the different types of compound are best suited for. Armite Labs is one such company, and it will probably be worth your time to review their website.

Beyond that, over the past several years I've heard a few "songs and dances" about the general superiority of ceramic-filled anti-seize compounds in a wide array of applications.

Of course, there are sometimes conflicting "expert opinions" . . . take aircraft spark plugs as an example: The makers of aircraft spark plugs sell a graphite-based anti-seize, one of the major aircraft engine makers (Continental or Lycoming, but I've forgotten which) is now recommending copper-based anti-seize for spark plugs, and old-time aircraft powerplant mechanics still talk about milk of magnesia or powdered mica in oil as spark plug anti-seize.

John
 
I work in a place that has locations with high H2S (Hydrogen Sulfite). Ever see what H2S does to copper and brass? The only Anti Seize they buy is the one that contains copper. This crap does the polar opposite of it's intended purpose in these locations. Used on a shaft at time of bearing install to make it easier to remove next time. Next time bearing has to come off the copper in the paste turns black and acts like LockTite. Wish someone would get the cranium out of their sphincters' and buy the Nickle base instead.
 
Remembered a reply someone posted on here before regarding Never Seize. He said, "I get that shit on me when I order it"!
 
I've used the graphite type for a long time, and have no complaints, but I understand it is not recommended for some things (not sure what they are). It does seem to effectively prevent stainless hardware from galling and welding, and works on general automotive nuts and bolts well.

Watching this, as my tin is getting low as well.
 
I need to buy another jar of antisieze. My old tin with a brush top is almost used up. For general use spark plugs, battery terminals, exhaust pipes what is recommended these days. I know some is called sensor safe for O2 sensors etc on cars. High nickel, copper, not stated or what. My existing jar was found 30 years ago half full washed up on the beach and I can not read the printing to get a brand. It is better then what I had bought before. I think the overall color on the can is a copper background color.
Bill D

Make sure whatever you buy is compatible with your application, ie, your oxygen sensors.

Some brands of that stuff outgasses at high temp and can REALLY screw you up. We tested some we had laying around, don't remember the brand, on some high temp composite tooling material test panels and ruined them.

I would probably buy whatever was safe for my most sensitive application and use it for everything just to be safe.
 
I've used the graphite type for a long time, and have no complaints, but I understand it is not recommended for some things (not sure what they are). It does seem to effectively prevent stainless hardware from galling and welding, and works on general automotive nuts and bolts well.

Watching this, as my tin is getting low as well.

I got a can of this "Moly-Lit" antiseize inside a toolbox I bought, been using it ever since. It's pretty good stuff. I believe it's a graphite and molybdenum disulfide mix. I use that on high temp and shop-related stuff. I still use the silver Permatex stuff on most household things.

Anti-Seize Technology 12018 Anti Seize,Moly Paste,20Oz,Brush Top Can 815443010758 | eBay
 
We almost always use Loctite LB8013 (N7000) on thread connections (all metals and temperatures). never had an issue with it.
 








 
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