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  1. #21
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    It says the drive goes thru a VW 4 speed gearbox....thru a bevel which is part of the gearbox mainshaft,thru a primitive single CV joint......of a sliding surface type known for seizures ....Any drive with a single CV is likely to transmit severe bending forces.,......yet a 4 ounce rubber coupler is being blamed ?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyborg View Post
    Good question. I donít know. The motor is squeezed in there and even with a bore scope or mirror, I canít see the plate. It runs off 220 and came with some fairly hefty cable. Running off a 30 amp breaker which works. Bride claims the lights upstairs dim when I switch it on. Assuming it is either 5 or 7.5 hp.
    A 5hp single phase motor will vibrate!

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  4. #23
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    A new coupling sounds like a good place to start. Measure the two shaft sizes and order up a new lovejoy coupling.

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  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    It says the drive goes thru a VW 4 speed gearbox....thru a bevel which is part of the gearbox mainshaft,thru a primitive single CV joint......of a sliding surface type known for seizures ....Any drive with a single CV is likely to transmit severe bending forces.,......yet a 4 ounce rubber coupler is being blamed ?
    There isn’t a CV joint in there. I mentioned that the thought had crossed my mind, but CV joints can cause vibration problems too. No guarantee that two CV joints would be any better and then there’s the lack of room.

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billtodd View Post
    A 5hp single phase motor will vibrate!
    Yes….. during my search, that subject came up a few times. A 3 phase with a speed control sounds like a much better way to go. I’m not expecting to get rid of all the vibration by replacing the coupler and aligning the motor, but it might get it down to an acceptable level? Relocating the motor and using a belt would probably be better. It’s just a matter of how much time and money I put into it before it starts to make sense to just donate it to the artificial reef society. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just do some of the grunt work.

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    A new coupling sounds like a good place to start. Measure the two shaft sizes and order up a new lovejoy coupling.
    Thanks. Had a quick look at their website. Looks like they should have something better than what’s in there.

  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyborg View Post
    Thanks. Had a quick look at their website. Looks like they should have something better than what’s in there.
    Sometimes smaller bore couplers are purchased and then either drilled or bored out to fit, it is possible that that happened on yours. Maybe someone drilled out the bore on a crappy drill press and it did not stay straight or centered?

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  11. #28
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    It seems highly likely that the weird right-angle drive made from VW components is a major contributor to vibration. I would suggest using a stethoscope to see if you can find the trouble spot. Could well be a damaged gear or worn bearing in the drive. In that case, since the vibration occurs AFTER the motor and coupler nothing you do at the front end will fix it.

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  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    Sometimes smaller bore couplers are purchased and then either drilled or bored out to fit, it is possible that that happened on yours. Maybe someone drilled out the bore on a crappy drill press and it did not stay straight or centered?
    I donít know if the coupler thatís in there comes apart or the rubber is bonded to the ends. The driven shaft is smaller in diameter than the motor shaft, so if the coupler doesnít come apart, I assume it was modified as you say. Iíll definitely check it when it comes out of there. Thanks for the input.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottl View Post
    It seems highly likely that the weird right-angle drive made from VW components is a major contributor to vibration. I would suggest using a stethoscope to see if you can find the trouble spot. Could well be a damaged gear or worn bearing in the drive. In that case, since the vibration occurs AFTER the motor and coupler nothing you do at the front end will fix it.
    As previously mentioned, I’d wager a bunch of beer it’s a combination of the natural tendency of a single phase motor to vibrate, misalignment of the motor, and the coupler itself. Everything down stream “seems” ok. Spindle bearings, runout on the chuck etc. Using a stethoscope is a good idea, but thinking it might be easier to detect vibration once the coupler is replaced and motor is (hopefully) aligned….although doing it now would tell me if one of the bearings is heading south. In any event, I’ll take your advice.
    The motor itself doesn’t vibrate as much as the 5hp single phase on the compressor, but that’s a useless comparison anyway. The lathe motor does vibrate more than I would like, but some of that vibration is going to be from the alignment and presumably the coupler. I can eliminate some of the rotating mass, including the chuck by disengaging the spindle drive to the chuck and not engaging the back gears.

    Just for the record, I spent some time levelling the lathe and making sure the legs/base were firmly planted with the weight on the legs as even as possible. It helped somewhat…

  15. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyborg View Post
    I don’t know if the coupler that’s in there comes apart or the rubber is bonded to the ends. The driven shaft is smaller in diameter than the motor shaft, so if the coupler doesn’t come apart, I assume it was modified as you say. I’ll definitely check it when it comes out of there. Thanks for the input.
    That come apart. The center piece is used with different ends, depending on shaft size. There are gear teeth formed into the outside of the hard rubber/plastic and matching teeth on the inside of the end parts.
    I think the one you have will have a hard rubber center, the lovejoy ones (and others) have a softer rubber center.

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    The only type of coupling I can think of that might transmit less vibration is the rag-type. Those are basically a ring of thick canvas or rubberish material, with alternating thru-holes that alternating-side fasteners go through. A web search will show you a bunch, not too expensive to try.

    Had the kind you have on an nc lathe, it worked okay but wore out the center urethane thingy fast, then there'd be a big klunk on upspeed and downspeed changes. I swapped it for the kind that has a spring wire threaded back-and-forth between the two halves but that'd probably be worse for your situation.

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  19. #33
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    Rag type like the connector on my Ramcharger steering shaft.

    There are these McMaster-Carr and they mention Buna-N spiders providing good vibration dampening.
    Life would be simple if I could order from McMaster Carr, but last time I ordered 2 clevis fork ends it almost created an international incident. Guess they were worried I was building a large centrifuge?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyborg View Post
    ... last time I ordered 2 clevis fork ends it almost created an international incident. Guess they were worried I was building a large centrifuge?
    Just resist the temptation to order aluminum tubing at the same time

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  22. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanuelGoldstein View Post
    Just resist the temptation to order aluminum tubing at the same time
    Too late… They told me in no uncertain terms to p#@@ off and don’t try it again. They included a link that took me to some sort of official sounding place on Pennsylvania Avenue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyborg View Post
    Too late… They told me in no uncertain terms to p#@@ off and don’t try it again.
    I'll meet you under the Peace Arch and we can smuggle.

    (That's with an m, you weirdos !)

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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanuelGoldstein View Post
    I'll meet you under the Peace Arch and we can smuggle.

    (That's with an m, you weirdos !)

    I actually had the package addressed to a place in Washington State, because I’m about a 10 minute walk from the border. If I behave myself and the computer doesn’t select me for the dreaded trip to secondary, on a good day I can leave my house cross over, pick up the package and be back home in under 20 minutes. Shipping is so much cheaper and they don’t bother with duty/taxes unless you’re bringing across something over a few hundred $. I bought a coaxial indicator off EBay from a guy about an hours drive south. Took two weeks (via Kentucky!) and cost $30 something USD for shipping and another $10 for someone to process the paperwork?
    McMaster Carr actually shipped the clevis forks and then realized the billing address was amongst the warring tribes to the north.
    Hopefully they’ll open the border soon, but I’m still on the McMaster Carr no fly list.

  26. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmanuelGoldstein View Post
    I'll meet you under the Peace Arch and we can smuggle.

    (That's with an m, you weirdos !)

    I tried to message you, but for whatever reason it just vanishes when I hit send.

  27. #39
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    Default setting is not to save "Sent" messages, so after you send a message you have no evidence of it. It's quite strange.

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  29. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fciron View Post
    Default setting is not to save "Sent" messages, so after you send a message you have no evidence of it. It's quite strange.
    Thanks for that….. and yes that is strange. I’m at the point where I’m losing my marbles anyway, so switched it on. Don’t need to be rewriting messages or repeating myself. No time for that. To busy searching for the verniers and then racking my brain when I finally find them…. why I was looking for these?


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