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Any problem with nesting multiple MT adapter sleeves?

Cannonmn

Stainless
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
I need to move the point of the dead center in the lathe spindle nose toward tailstock about 2 inches. My 5 MT dead center is too far down inside the thick 4-jaw Chuck I’m using, to allow use of any dog. So being cheap and lazy, the quick-fix that should work is to drop a 5MT to 4 MT sleeve in the 5 MT spindle-nose bushing, then drop a 4 MT to 3 MT adapter sleeve in that, and use a 3 MT dead center for my planned taper turning between centers. There’s a story behind why the 5 MT bushing sits so far down inside the spindle but I didn’t plan on going there since the thread would get too long. See any issues with my plan? I figure as long as there’s no runout at the point of the dead center, there shouldn’t be a problem.
 
It depends upon how concentric your adapters are. Any time you "add" anything like you are contemplating,you are risking potential trouble,and loss of rigidity.
 
I have a center made from pre hard I just chuck up for such a circumstance. If its fussy, I recut it. It has a step so it can't be pushed back into the jaws. That way the jaws are clamped solid, and I use a marked jaw for a dog driver.
 
Thx for info, so I might use the stack for short/light items only, and “dedicate” those sleeves in the stack so I wouldn’t have to pull it apart if it resisted too much. Looks like gbent doesn’t rely on a Morse taper center mount at all, just holds his special center in the chuck, so that’s an alternative I hadn’t given too much thought yet.
 
i also use the "special center" but im too lazy to recut it most of the time. however by rotating it in the chuck i usually can bring it on center. the same appies to the stacked up addapters. if your lucky you get zero tir. actually i have a mt5 to mt3 that is too good. no point in rotating.
 
I have a center made from pre hard I just chuck up for such a circumstance. If its fussy, I recut it. It has a step so it can't be pushed back into the jaws. That way the jaws are clamped solid, and I use a marked jaw for a dog driver.

This is the way I do it also. Grade 8 (12.9 european) bolt will also work nicelyn instead ”prehard” steel.
 
As others have said using a center with a shoulder that you turn in the chuck will remain on center unless you move it or have some sort of a boo boo that damages it. With the shoulder the part heating will not drive the center back into the chuck but using a stack of sleeves will get them tighter and could aggravate any runout you have with the stackup.
 








 
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