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Any users of Collis Majic Chucks??

M

MwTech Inc

Titanium
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Location
Fishersville VA
After repeated calls to Collis I cant get any info...................

With the addition of the radial drill in the shop I picked up a clean used 5mt #4 master and one new collet, just to look at it and study.
This is the series that uses 2 3/8 dia collets

With the master in the spindle and a 2" twist in the collet I am getting .125 min "slop" at the tip of the drill bit. (14" from master to tip of drill)

Seems to much??? Looking to drill many holes and tap 16mm that need to be on 2.00 centers, no room for that kind of slop.
 
Not much help, but I thought Scully-Jones either invented or sold those
Magic Chucks back in the day. I have a hardcover S-J catalogue from the
1950s and it has tons of cool information on tapers and tooling.
Good luck with your search.

--Doozer
 
MwTech Inc said:
After repeated calls to Collis I cant get any info...................

With the addition of the radial drill in the shop I picked up a clean used 5mt #4 master and one new collet, just to look at it and study.
This is the series that uses 2 3/8 dia collets

With the master in the spindle and a 2" twist in the collet I am getting .125 min "slop" at the tip of the drill bit. (14" from master to tip of drill)

Seems to much??? Looking to drill many holes and tap 16mm that need to be on 2.00 centers, no room for that kind of slop.
Click to expand...

Could be bent.
 
digger....moves in any direction, collet just sloppy in any direction.
Would be great if someone could measure the id of another collet so I could compare....
 
The Magic Chuck was intended for use in a radial drill with a drill jig/drill bushing aligning & guiding the cutting tool (drill, tap or reamer.)

The machine spindle provided the rotational power and axial feed force, while the drill jig handled the location of the cutting tool relative to the workpiece.

The tool & spindle did not require a perfect alignment with the drill bushing since the Magic Chuck allowed some "float."

I doubt that you will find success using a Magic Chuck to drill & tap the 16mm holes without a guide bushing.

Laying out and center punching & spot drilling all the holes first, may offer a degree of success.

Mike
 
I had a similar set-up on my old Radial drill, it went with the sale.
IIRC it was a McCroskey with the large square ears, and the pointed top.
These were as you describe, "sloppy".


My new radial drill (smaller imported) came with a different style
of QC, they are a straight bore, with a groove near the top.

They are a much tighter sliding fit, and you can't safely change then when spinning.
 
Mike

That is exactly the info I was trying to find out........thank you.

Well.............. sort of disappointed now as I was trying to get away from fixtures.............

I put a readout on the head, figured I could locate hole 1 and then just drill/tap drill/tap out the holes in the row........

Guess I better polish up the drifts................:D
 
Yeah, those Magic Chucks aren't exactly precision tooling, but you never had to worry about getting it stuck in the holder.

Worked great for what it was intended to do: pass rotational force from the drill to the tool while allowing for a quick change.

Put your initial hole in some other way. Then let the radial make it bigger. Loved the magic chucks for going from drilling to tapping.
 
CatMan said:
Yeah, those Magic Chucks aren't exactly precision tooling, but you never had to worry about getting it stuck in the holder.

Worked great for what it was intended to do: pass rotational force from the drill to the tool while allowing for a quick change.

Put your initial hole in some other way. Then let the radial make it bigger. Loved the magic chucks for going from drilling to tapping.
Click to expand...

At work we have a long drift with a sleeve type handle that is spring loaded. It works great. You just slam the handle towards the spindle like a slide hammer. I not @ work today but I think there is a name on it.
 
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