Anyone machine the od of a pipe? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    "SP is no help with one of my chronic cobbled-keyings that swaps "from" and "form", both directions, f'rinstance."

    Yes sir termite your chronic cobbled keyings, tend to suggest you are the forums top bullshitter, and chronic troll.
    What really happened in 1959? firinstance......

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by John F Peters View Post
    I thought about cylinder rod but being solid is really heavy for 3" diameter. Now I know there is hollow cylinder rod for telescoping cylinders. That would be best if I can find those.
    Scot tubing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by R. Dan View Post
    Scot tubing.
    That could work.

    Look at use of tube for lots of lighter woodworking and portable to jobsite goods than a "sawmill". Rounds shed debris well. That matters.

    Even low-end stuff such as a Lowe's Chinee house-brand "Kobalt" compound miter saw. Which still makes decent cuts even with the round rails gone RUST spotted.

    "DAMHIKT" - but it seemed less problematic than oiling or greasing around sawdust.. dust!

    Should "scale up" OK?

    But WTH,, doing basic sawyering here. not fine woods "marquetry". Wood MOVES more than the degree of precision being chased.

  4. #24
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    "Even low-end stuff such as a Lowe's Chinee house-brand "Kobalt" compound miter saw. Which still makes decent cuts even with the round rails gone RUST spotted."

    Thats it termite! push your Hong Kong Bank interest brands, then pay them .88 cents an hour, and run your 50" 50hp Niles lathe.
    Most say you are a robot, because you have no photos, I say, its just the same old troll stuff he has been doing for years!
    The funny thing though is that jewelry trade story you told when you first came on here, it is hard to keep your BS straight, but its needed when you are entered to "The Book of Trolls".....

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    "Even low-end stuff such as a Lowe's Chinee house-brand "Kobalt" compound miter saw. Which still makes decent cuts even with the round rails gone RUST spotted."

    Thats it termite! push your Hong Kong Bank interest brands, then pay them .88 cents an hour, and run your 50" 50hp Niles lathe.
    Most say you are a robot, because you have no photos, I say, its just the same old troll stuff he has been doing for years!
    The funny thing though is that jewelry trade story you told when you first came on here, it is hard to keep your BS straight, but its needed when you are entered to "The Book of Trolls".....
    Your Brother may not have been an "only child", idiot.

    But for damned sure he's become an "only adult"!

    You wouldn't have the least KLEW that probably well above 95 percent of all here have done much the same as I have.

    Started WORKING at something useful from earliest childhood, even if but feeding chickens. Then acheiving competence at one thing after another from those early beginnings ONWARD, and With Out FAIL!

    Because we CAN!

    WHERE TF do you think you ARE, loser?

    WINNERS live HERE!

    We "functional ones" grew to ENJOY work. Grew to look for more interesting and better paying forms OF work.

    Our experiences differ. Our world views differ. Our opinions differ. We disagree. Often STRONGLY!

    That's a PM FEATURE, not a BUG!

    OUR contributions to this world will cease only about a week before they pull the sheet up over our dead face.

    There ARE NO circumstance wherein a LOSER gets to dictate to even the least among winners! None. Zero. Give it up and motor off!

    Womever that "least" might be on any given issue, and ONLY on one issue at a go.
    Every productive person HERE adds value at SOME time or another.
    Every productive person here knows SOMETHING some other does not know and could some day benefit from.

    You? Your Mother died of COVID. You are into cocks and urine "sculptures", the eating of flying rats?

    Useless NOW, for certain!

    76 years in, and laying an improved dry-laid stone wall with hidden alignment beams buried in compacted gravels under it to keep it straighter longer?
    Because I don't want to have to re-do the sumbich at 86!

    Millions of a-rabs outta work as capable terrorists, and I have to draw a useless c*nt sniffing my fossilizing ass?

    You should go play in traffic!

    See if you can get your tiny rabid-rodent teeth into the tires on a K-Wopper or Peterbilt, shake yer empty head, and break its f**king back, oh "bad-ass biker!"

    Pretentious parasitic pinworms!

    God must have loved them or she'd wudda made roundworms all square and lumpy to go as tangled up and paralyzed-crippled as "bad-ass biker" dreams!
    Last edited by thermite; 10-24-2020 at 01:18 AM.

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    I will contact Scot tubing and see what this stuff costs. They have a branch in Texas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by John F Peters View Post
    I will contact Scot tubing and see what this stuff costs. They have a branch in Texas.
    Galling was mentioned as a known factor with SS, but otherwise.. you aren't wrong to be concerned about surface corrosion where oils and greases won't fly and coatings wear rapidly.

    As with most things, we are never "the first" with basic stuff. Solutions are already at work. Seek and ye shall find.
    Last edited by thermite; 10-24-2020 at 01:14 AM.

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    I second suggestion of IHCP telescoping cylinder tubing. Wheels can work, but if there is a lot of sawdust, you will need wipers lest the wheels rumble and carriage jiggle over the lumps. Better might be Igus or other plastic plain bearings.

    You have not shown us your design. A cylindrical guide may guide in a straight line, but offers no resistance to rotation

    If you do not want rotation, look at rectangular tube. Probably plenty straight enough for a saw-mill.. and will not wear out for a long time if you use plastic wear buttons against it, Nylatron GS, UHMWPE, or some Igus concoction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magneticanomaly View Post
    ... A cylindrical guide may guide in a straight line, but offers no resistance to rotation
    An "assumption", but one based off plenty of common practice, I figured he'd use a PAIR?

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    In addition to all the other concerns, if you are trying to achieve a straight guiding surface you are going about it all wrong. That long of a tube with that thin of a wall will NOT stay straight even as you cut it. By the time you finish the first cut, the area you have previously cut will be running out. About the only way to do this and get a straight surface would be to use an O.D. grinder with enough longitudinal travel to do the whole thing at once. Light cuts down the entire length being the key.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    In addition to all the other concerns, if you are trying to achieve a straight guiding surface you are going about it all wrong. That long of a tube with that thin of a wall will NOT stay straight even as you cut it. By the time you finish the first cut, the area you have previously cut will be running out. About the only way to do this and get a straight surface would be to use an O.D. grinder with enough longitudinal travel to do the whole thing at once. Light cuts down the entire length being the key.
    "Centerless" grinding ain't "perfect" grinding. Neither is belt finishing. But both are cheaper and prolly MORE than good enuf onct he gets a handle on the stock goods in the marketplace.

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    First ,whats the band mill for ...breaking down or precision sawing?And following that ,what band ? A big heavy 1/4" thick band ,or a lightweight very flexible band for finish?.....And how much power? electric or diesel?.....Mechanical or hydraulic drive.?.....if the system flexes under power,the band may jump off or buckle.

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    I've made some fairly heavy duty and extremely rigid/smooth slides by putting ball bearings on bolts on angle iron so they can cradle over an edge of square tubing. A spring loaded arm preloaded bearings against the other side. I used a spring loaded chain for driving it as well. The rail can be fully supported as well.

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    Most any saw mill uses a beam with adjustable supports so it can be setup straight. No tube or pipe is likely to be stiff enough on its own.

    lumberprohd36.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by ezduzit View Post
    Most any saw mill uses a beam with adjustable supports so it can be setup straight. No tube or pipe is likely to be stiff enough on its own.

    lumberprohd36.jpg
    Cheating to look at what has worked for several hundred years and go from there, ain't it?

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    The blade in question would be 1.25" wide and prolly .040 thick. Most of the cuts will be treated timbers that I have have salvaged from a hurricane here in South Texas. The custom chrome tube from Scot Industries is available in various thickness. I see .300 wall tubing . I think 3" od is plenty. Yes I have already thought about twist factor when using round tube instead of
    square tubing. I believe I can fasten top and bottom well enough to avoid that.I have seen lots of crappy designs on you tube and they seem to work fairly well.

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    OK ,I was thinking a big log breaking down bench.......sizes you quote should be plenty rigid enough for 10-15 hp or so.........I have made /copied all sorts of sawmilling equipt over the years ,before the greenies closed everyone out but the big corps,and my theory is to always copy a machine that works well,and see the faults in those that dont work /arent satisfactory.

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    Forgot to say I have a v twin 25 hp Kohler rebuilt for this Project.

  22. #39
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    Pipe is absolutely a terrible idea.

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    I called Scot tubing in Houston and priced 2 6 foot pieces of 3.25 od Chromed tubes a bit over .25" wall. $500 plus tax. Tolerance is .0025 or less. Not way overpriced and it will save me time trying to cut ss pipe.

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