Anyone remember Peterson milling arbors?

Anyone remember Peterson milling arbors? The flush milling ones where one could mount an angle, double angle, dovetailing, or slotting mill so that it could cut flush on the bottom. I.E., no nut or bolt protruding from the bottom face.

I have a cutting tool I am making that needs to accomplish same ( 3" Diameter that needs to actually be able to plunge in 1.100" from edge to side mill a pocket ) and I recalled the Petersons. I thought I still had one or two, but cannot find them at the moment. Trying to recall, I seem to remember that they were basically just a split sleeve that got forced open by a taper cone on the screw. Am I remembering that clearly? It just doesn't sound right... I keep thinking that there was something on the upper side as well...

Any help?

Well whaddya know... they're still around. I remembered to use my google-fu. Pics don't seem to tell the whole story, though. Might still need some insights now that it's the weekend and I cannot call them.

"Peterson stub arbors" are what we called them. Try that name.

Got one somewhere.. IIRC, it says "Peterson Flush Cut Arbor" Seems like they were in the Travers catalog some years ago, not sure now, though.. Used it a few times, was always a bit cautious, not much holding the cutter.. Best to check face runout with an indicator, too.

Tank said:

"Peterson stub arbors" are what we called them. Try that name.

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Thank you kind Sir. You rock. And a fellow Cheeshead too. They're at Welcome to Peterson Flush Arbor

I need a highly adapted version of that so I think I'm going to have to make it anyway ( due to needing the small diameter/clearance up top as well ), but those pics will work and reminded me about the stepped key and the bevel ring.

Davis In SC said:

Got one somewhere.. IIRC, it says "Peterson Flush Cut Arbor" Seems like they were in the Travers catalog some years ago, not sure now, though.. Used it a few times, was always a bit cautious, not much holding the cutter.. Best to check face runout with an indicator, too.

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Davis - Yep... That's the part I'm worried about - Keeping the dang thing straight. I was all prepared to make an expanding stub arbor for it and then remembered the old Petersons. Well, I guess I can't really say "old" if they're still around.

Thanks. Gonna have to have a think on this...

I have an use a couple of them. Nice even if you don't need the flush aspect, because they center the cutter.

Yep, don't for get they are key drive. The taper just locates and more or less secures the cutter. The key transmits the torque.

Looks like I'm late and you got what you need?

smt

stephen thomas said:

I have an use a couple of them. Nice even if you don't need the flush aspect, because they center the cutter.
Yep, don't for get they are key drive. The taper just locates and more or less secures the cutter. The key transmits the torque.
Looks like I'm late and you got what you need?
smt

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Stephen - I think so... Still vacillating between which one I'll make. The problem is that I need to mill a 1.5" radius slot 1.1" deep. So basically, I can only have a shank diameter of .8". In truth it can be slightly larger. I am simplifying the numbers here for expedience in conveying my intent and needs. It would be great if I could find a cutter, slitting mill, or saw that has a .750" bore. My issue would be solved. But it seems that as soon as you go over 2.5" diameter they jump to 1" or larger bores. I have looked at purchasing a special mill, but the price for one or two ( all that I will need ) makes it a bad consideration. 5/16" wide 3" diameter side mills are plentiful and inexpensive, so if I can hold one with an arbor that protrudes no more than .8" in diameter I would be golden. An expanding arbor type is simple to make but I need to allow for some manner of registration to insure against wobble in the cutter. A Peterson style will work, but I need to investigate what reducing the upper diameter for .5" would do, if anything, negatively.

What material are you cutting Zanrad? as it's only a couple I might have an idea, slot width is 5/16??

Limy Sami said:

What material are you cutting Zanrad? as it's only a couple I might have an idea, slot width is 5/16??

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Hey Sami - Mostly 17-4 and 4140, but ev'ry now'n'again 7075 and 6061. Slot is *technically* .315", but I've been utilizing a 5/16" side mill that I've resharpened to .300" and side step ( in Z ) to open it up after getting it roughed out.

EDIT - by "couple" I was referring to only likely needing "a couple" of mills or tools to achieve what I want to achieve over the long term. There are numbers of "parts".

Thanks Zahnrad, but my idea's a non flier.

I've got a bunch of threaded 1" arbors, and one, 1/2" that have cutters threaded on them. Problem being the 1/2" cutter is only 1-3/4" dia.
the 1" have cutters up to about 3" or so. But they are way thicker than 5/16". Only point here is, "wonder if anyone still makes cutters with threaded bores?"

Next thought is, can you silver solder it to an arbor, possibly even including a key. And then grind the arbor down to neck size needed?

smt

stephen thomas said:

I've got a bunch of threaded 1" arbors, and one, 1/2" that have cutters threaded on them. Problem being the 1/2" cutter is only 1-3/4" dia.
the 1" have cutters up to about 3" or so. But they are way thicker than 5/16". Only point here is, "wonder if anyone still makes cutters with threaded bores?"
Next thought is, can you silver solder it to an arbor, possibly even including a key. And then grind the arbor down to neck size needed?
smt

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Good stuff, Stephen. We think fairly similarly. I haven't found any threaded bore mills in my searches, but I did think of them. I even asked one of the tool reps I deal with. ( okay, admittedly not the sharpest knife in the drawer, that one... ) He's too young to know about them, and never heard about them.

I _did_ consider the silver braze idea. I came to the conclusion that it was too much heat to throw into a mill and expect it to live for very long with an edge...

Ultimately, I made an "insert/bushing" for the mill including the key that was a .0002" press into the mill's bore. After, I tack welded it in place so that the mill could not walk to either side of it. The "insert/bushing" also had a smaller bore and keyway for which I made an arbor and key. It all worked wonderfully, save for that the mill moved during welding, I presume from the heat expansion. So, I ended up with a slight wobble. Other than that, it worked the treat...

I considered just making another "bushing" and arbor, but that's when I got side tracked by the Peterson idea and then the expanding mandrel idea.

It may very well be the way to go, here, as it's simple enough to do. I did it on the WEDM. If I do it again, I'll do it slightly differently this time. The first time I did the bore ( and keyway ) and then the outside profile ( with key ), letting the part drop and then installing it into the mill. This time I think I would do a prep hole in the center, but leave it unfinished. Then do the outside, and then press it into the mill. Then place the mill with installed bushing into the WEDM, insure that it is perfectly level AND THEN cut the bore and keyway. I would also Laser weld the insert into the mill this time instead of traditional Tig.

I wasn't sure if "stub arbors" was shop lingo or what Peterson actually called them. This goes back to when we still had KT H-mills in production. Seems like they use Robbjack arbors/cutters for most things now but I haven't seen one that was flush like the Petersons. You still might want to see what they offer.

One thing of note for Peterson flush/stub arbors: The arbor spacers that come with them have slightly oversized IDs, to allow the tapered ring to grab the cutter ID. If you need to use a standard arbor spacer with a Peterson arbor, dedicate it to the purpose and lap or grind a few thousandths clearance on the ID.