Applying anti corrosion measures to mild steel - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    It is always good to get follow up on how thungs work out for folks. So, if you can, let us know what you do and how it worked. Doing so adds to the general knowledge base, which is what the forum is all about—-at least for the large majority of posters I believe.

    DenIs

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgfoster View Post
    It is always good to get follow up on how thungs work out for folks. So, if you can, let us know what you do and how it worked. Doing so adds to the general knowledge base, which is what the forum is all about—-at least for the large majority of posters I believe.

    DenIs
    Will do, hopefully I can get some good before and after photos and see if anything works. Thank you for the good reply too,

    I come on here for my job and to get knowledge from more experienced people and typically get 50/50 good or bad responses. Old threads have helped me a lot but people posting bad advice on purpose or giving unwanted criticism off topic helps no one.

  4. #23
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    screenshot_20200114-102817_chrome.jpg
    This really works well at keeping my machine tools rust free in a unheated shop
    Mutch better than any spray or the engine oil I was using
    Good luck

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    If the pole barn is uninsulated and unheated it will likely always have condensation and wetness problems. Gotta fix that first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    Can the whole thing be sent out and galvanized? 8x8x20' is big but not that big.

    I gotta say...anyone working in a pole barn with a dirt floor - unless it is with horses or cows - is not serious about life.
    I still have some machines in the dirt floor hay barn I started in. It was kinda fun. The dirt is squishy now from the chips. Never had to worry about sweeping. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do to turn a buck. Also teaches you not to drop stuff because you may never find it again.

  9. #26
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    Next time, have em hot dip galvanize the whole thing before install. The place I use has 40' long tanks, and ten ton overhead cranes. If it was designed right, to drain, it could be galvanized in one dip.

    I have had pretty good luck with paint on galvanizing, too- the kind that is 95% zinc, not just silver paint. Its certainly easier to apply than something like POR 15, and should last longer than motor oil. With that much zinc in it, it will do the sacrificial thing that real galvanizing does, just not as completely.

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    Quote Originally Posted by psandherr View Post
    I actually got good replies from some and found a product to use based on suggestions, I ignore smug jerks who reply with no help, or dumb "advice".

    I supplied basic info and expected basic replies but a lot of people on this forum are so full of themselves they feel the need to be unprofessional jerks.

    I thank the people that helped and like your mother should have told you if you don't have anything good to say, don't say it.
    Again, you provided NO details, and we had to drag them out of you.

    So who is being SMUG here ?

    Try a 40' conex box, and seal it up tight with can foam, so the meth fumes go straight to what's left of your brain stem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by psandherr View Post
    I have to try to fix it
    Just brush or spray on a phosphoric acid rust cleaning product and clean whatever is exposed. Then brush and spray again and let it dry on the metal.
    Makes a good rust inhibiting barrier. Not my idea, was on the directions label of something I used before.

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    Bond a wire to it and attach the other end to a zinc plate. Bury the zinc plate. Same way they prevent corrosion on buried fuel tanks.

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    Lift it and shove plastic pallets under it so it so its high and dry. paint the under side while it is up in the air. I would lift one end at a time. The fibered aluminum roofing coating comes to mind. I have to go to Nevada to buy it now.
    Bill D.

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    Rust always wins

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    Quote Originally Posted by psandherr View Post
    I have to try to fix it
    LOL! More to it than paint.

    First yah have to get your head out of your ass and recognize you got yerself an unheated sauna. Couldn't get a much better "test chamber" to create rust if yah built it a-purpose.

    Dry out the damned sweat box, de-couple the steel from damp Earth & condensing humi-diddle-pee....or expect to live with rust a Very Long Time.

    That sorted?

    Clean the surface with blast media and/or phosphoric. Discover that most any damn coating that adheres will stop rust if the environment is not super-hostile.
    Some coatings are just more durable than others. BFD. How fat is the time and money budget?

    No Bu Ci.

    Got raw steel wool here as ain't rusted in 20 years. What kinda paint d'you suppose they used on THAT?


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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    Rust always wins
    I have spent half my life trying to win one.
    All I get are gloves with holes and goofed up skin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rons View Post
    I have spent half my life trying to win one.
    All I get are gloves with holes and goofed up skin.
    I dont think i will ever fully prevent it, but hopefully some measures to mitigate it lol.

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    We dug a trench starting a foot deep and going down to 30" around the structure. less than 6" below the surface there was a lot of standing water. Builder did not do an adequate job with outside drainage and building sits a bit too low in the water plane.
    img-6561.jpg

    We installed these EZ french drains, much better than the old way with gravel and fabric, prevents a lot of the water from getting to the bottom of the steel.
    white-foam-nds-corrugated-pipes-ez-0802f-64_1000.jpgimg-6672.jpg

    Next step is to grind sand brush and acid the existing rust and use either rust seal or a weather resistant epoxy to help seal out the moisture. Haven't decided which route to go yet.

    None of these will be a great solution or completely solve the issue, but it wasn't very expensive to install and will hopefully help the problem.

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