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Baker key seater

cuttergrinder

Hot Rolled
Joined
Mar 16, 2007
Location
Salem,Ohio
We have an antique Baker key seater at work that is just plain worn out. I am not sure of the model number. Also nobody really knows how to operate it. I ran it a little but I am not sure I am doing it right. This machine moves the table back and forth as the cutter goes up and down. It also has feed but the feed seems like it is not working and then all of a sudden it tries to take a hogger cut. The bushing in the top that supports the bar is a little loose and the ways that supports the bottom at the bar seem loose also. We are going to try and rebuild this machine and tighten up all the loose parts but does anyone have any pointers on running a machine like this. This machine is supposed cut up to a 2" wide keyway but I am not having much luck doing so..
 
Blue your blank and lay out the key.

Rough it with a 1/2'' than1'' than the 2.

Tighten the ways (may need to scrape them) and the upper bushing and rod.

Grind the cutters with 0* rake 3* clearance and 0* side clearance for about 1/8th'' than 3*.

Tighten the cutter slot up where you have to bump the cutters.

Make your cutters out of t1 with a hss cutting edge welded/ brazed on.
 
Heavey is right, trying to take a 2" cut is a lot. Use smaller cutters to sneak up on it. I never used a Baker, but I used a Mitts & Merrill that was in good shape and a two inch cut was difficult, unless we roughed out the cut with smaller cutters. the cutter bar on a M & M has a roller that keeps a bit of pressure on the cutter bar to hold it back against the feed bar, so it wouldn't take a big bite. Good luck.

Sarge
 
Actually, I was trying to cut a 1 3/4 key and I tried roughing it with a 3/4 cutter but even then this machine struggles. I think everything is just too loose. One problem is this 1 3/4 key needs to be 7/8 deep but the 3/4 cutter will only cut 3/8 deep before the bar starts to hit the bore. The only way I can see to do it is rough with the 3/4 cutter to 3/8 deep and then cut with a 1 1/2 cutter to 3/8 deep and then go back to the 3/4 cutter to finish roughing to 7/8 deep since the 1 1/2 cutter will make some room for the bar. Is this the way you usually have to do it on a machine like this.
 
I don't know what bar you mean. On the Baker I ran, there was no support behind the cutter. It was like a broach, but the teeth were the same height. You could cut a 3/4 wide slot as deep as you want on the Baker I am familiar with. The only support you had was above the work, so it shouldn't be in your way. Pics please!
 
I just did some research. I now think the machine I ran was actually a Hansford Davis, sorry to confuse things, I didn't know what the hell I was talking about!
 
I've got one identical to the one in the pic, and probably in about the same condition as the OP's. If I was going to rebuild it, which I'm not, I'd replace the mechanical ram drive assembly with a hydraulic cylinder, and all the table motion linkage with a cheap ballscrew and stepper motor.
 
We have a machine like the one pictured above. Does anyone know where we can purchase cutters for it? We haven't had much luck trying to make them.
 
I ran one of these. Those machines rock when you get them dialed in. These's a brass block that backs up the cutting bar so it doesn't deflect when cutting. The table pulls the part away on the retract cycle so the cutter doesn't drag. Yes this thing will cut a 2" keyway. The feed mechanism is funky to say the least. The farther you move it off center the bigger the cut it will take. The great thing about these machines is you can cut a keyway in a tapered bore or cut gib keyways. Take some time to look this over and you'll be amazed at what it will do. Someone on this site might even have some paperwork on it. The gibs on it are adjustable and yeah it's a PITA to oil (I personally think some machinists are allergic to machine oil). PM me if I can help you in any way.
 








 
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