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bench dog hole diameter

drcoelho

Stainless
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Location
Los Altos
So I'm planning a steel work table for which I want to drill a bunch of 22mm bench dog holes (on 100mm grid) per the 22mm welding industry standard. I presume the clamps, etc are 22mm, and therefore I need the table holes to be slightly larger than this, what recommendation for hole oversize is recommended for this application?
 
The ones I've seen are 16 or 28mm for metric. 5/8" is also super common.

Are you referring to the wood hacking ones you bonk with a hammer ?

The OP's seem to indicate something for accurately locating
parts on a weld fixture, maybe like the blueco system ?
 
Are you referring to the wood hacking ones you bonk with a hammer ?

The OP's seem to indicate something for accurately locating
parts on a weld fixture, maybe like the blueco system ?

No, high end, like Siegmund. I think Bluco and Demmeler are 28mm as well.
 
Siegmund System 22: Siegmund Group WELDING TABLES AND CLAMPING SYSTEMS

That isn't really all that important, assume 28mm. My MAIN question is this:

what should the ID of the 22mm (or 28mm) hole be, e.g. how much bigger than 22mm (or 28mm) should it be for a tight but still usable dog hole for use with Siegmund clamps, etc... ??? should it have an extra 0.001" or an extra 0.002" or an extra 0.01" ???
 
0.005 on something roughly an inch should be fine. Do you plan on drilling and reaming? The ideal way to do it would be to purchase a stop or plug or whatever is cheap of the system you plan on using and measuring the item. Then you can try a few different things and see what you like. If you aren't building anything crazy, the tolerance isn't all that critical. I think stronghand undersizes their stuff a little, around .620. I drilled and reamed an old table to .625 and it worked great.

24012905397_a8c27cbbfe_c.jpg
 
Interesting.
Thank you for the links.

I would think an expanding pin from Jergens would work nicely.
 
0.005 on something roughly an inch should be fine. Do you plan on drilling and reaming? The ideal way to do it would be to purchase a stop or plug or whatever is cheap of the system you plan on using and measuring the item. Then you can try a few different things and see what you like. If you aren't building anything crazy, the tolerance isn't all that critical. I think stronghand undersizes their stuff a little, around .620. I drilled and reamed an old table to .625 and it worked great.

24012905397_a8c27cbbfe_c.jpg

Very helpful. I think I will go ahead and purchase some clamping parts for measurement and trial.
 
If you aren't building anything crazy, the tolerance isn't all that critical.

If I'd had my HEAD out, I see I shuddna drug their top-end Reese hitch receiver and a bar around for ten years all the while a nice vise was going hungry for a more useful mount, too.

The value, of course, that one can either remove it, flip it one-eighty so the profile clears the table overhang for oversized goods, OR flip it a ninety either side and use it where that is the grip a vise needs for a given tasking.

A belated thanks. I gave the Reese goods away to a neighbour years ago, must now go buy new!

:(
 
If I'd had my HEAD out, I see I shuddna drug their top-end Reese hitch receiver and a bar around for ten years all the while a nice vise was going hungry for a more useful mount, too.

The value, of course, that one can either remove it, flip it one-eighty so the profile clears the table overhang for oversized goods, OR flip it a ninety either side and use it where that is the grip a vise needs for a given tasking.

A belated thanks. I gave the Reese goods away to a neighbour years ago, must now go buy new!

:(

Yup, that'a getting common these days.

I'm waiting for something like a cross between a skid steer quick attach & the above mentioned reese 2" sq.

Maybe a Cat 50 with a footpedal operated drawbar ?

Plenty of those adapters cheep.
 
Yup, that'a getting common these days.

I'm waiting for something like a cross between a skid steer quick attach & the above mentioned reese 2" sq.

That, then, would be well-served by knocking-off Bailey bridge socket & pins.

Old stuff, and long-proven in the toughest of conditions to work a treat for transferring loads and securing against unwanted movement.

British "Model ingin-ears" get a stroke of brilliance, it's usually BFBI simple, and a damned tough act to follow.

Dad pushed them across the Loire and the Saar wth Germans heavily disproving. They hadn't expected a Bailey to be launched with a CE tank-dozer as counterweight to a launching nose with sandbagged belt-fed machine guns and bazooka teams with Tommy guns and frag grenades, oh dark wee hours, ground fog and smoke rounds. Combat Engineers in the van of an armoured assault don't have the luxury of taking prisoners, so it worked six times in a row for his unit alone before anyone was ever the wiser, their side.
 
Found my copy of Ingersoll Milling Machine's "Engineered Setup Equipment" catalog -- which self-evidently deals with machining rather than welding -- shows machine-table stop-pin holes and stop-pins to fit the machine-table holes in three nominal diameters: 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch, and 2 inch.

For all three sizes, the hole tolerances are nominal to nominal-plus-0.002 inch while the pin tolerances are nominal to nominal-minus-0.003 inch. Resulting fits are line-to-line minumum clearance, 0.005 inch maximum clearance.
 
Siegmund got back to me with this specification:

The hole diameter of the 22mm system is 22.15mm with a +/- of 0.05mm tolerance
 








 
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