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Best machine for drilling with annular cutter

icecats

Plastic
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Hello,
I need to drill about 20 1-1/4" holes in 1/4" and 1/2" mild steel plate. I purchased an annular cutter to do the job and I need to decide on the best machine to turn the cutter. My two options are a 15" Craftsman 1/2 HP drill press or a Tormach PCNC 770 mill with a 1 HP spindle.
If I were to choose the drill press, I would need to make an adapter for the 3/4" shaft of the annular cutter. I think it might also be necessary to rig up some kind of coolant setup.?.
The mill would be better for workpiece securing and coolant, but I worried about stalling the spindle and breaking the cutter.

Thoughts?
Thanks
 
I'd definitely try to Tormach first. No adapter, and it'll be more rigid and therefore I think less likely to break the cutter. Stalling alone shouldn't break a HSS cutter.
 
Same here. I'm guessing the minimum speed on your drill press is somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 RPM, way too fast for a 1-1/4" annular cutter.

Related question: will a standard 3/4" end mill holder work for running an annular cutter, or is there something special about their mounting that is different than end mills with Weldon flats?
 
Hello,
I need to drill about 20 1-1/4" holes in 1/4" and 1/2" mild steel plate. I purchased an annular cutter to do the job and I need to decide on the best machine to turn the cutter. My two options are a 15" Craftsman 1/2 HP drill press or a Tormach PCNC 770 mill with a 1 HP spindle.
Thoughts?
Thanks

Ummhhh... the Craftsman?


:)

Congratulations !!!

First joke I've heard in ages as didn't involve smutty sex .. or even worse politics.

Disclosure: It is still not-quite-trivial work with a 7 HP Alzmettal AB5/S, so I'd not bet much on the 1 HP Toymach, either.

Might consider renting a stout industrial Mag-base drill that is already snouted for the annular's special shank and has more balls than either of your present machines.

2" Magnetic Annular Cutter Drill | Sunbelt Rentals

Note "coolant through" capability as well...

They have competition.


2CW
 
Both of these are going to have problems.
The drill press has no spindle rigidity but can make the full HP at it's lowest pulley setting.
The T-type is going to have very reduced power down at this speed.
Number of teeth and geometry will make differences here.
You can not hope to push a high density carbide tipped to where it works.
One thing you can do in such a situation using HSS is grind away some of the teeth. You end up with the same time in the cut but the cutter lasts longer.
Bob
 
. . . Related question: will a standard 3/4" end mill holder work for running an annular cutter, or is there something special about their mounting that is different than end mills with Weldon flats?

Normally, you want the central locating pin to spot hole locations. A Weldon holder would have to be adapted to allow the pin to push back into it. Second problem with a Weldon holder is likely putting the annular cutting slightly off center.

For most uses, neither issue is a show-stopper. More important are a rigid spindle, an appropriately low speed, and enough torque to keep it cutting. Cutting oil a good idea.
 
Only thing I'll add is that a slow drip of lubricant is all you need, not flood coolant. Mag drills running annular cutters usually have a drip feed bottle of straight cutting oil, often fed through the middle of the cutter.
 
Hello,
I need to drill about 20 1-1/4" holes in 1/4" and 1/2" mild steel plate. I purchased an annular cutter to do the job and I need to decide on the best machine to turn the cutter. My two options are a 15" Craftsman 1/2 HP drill press or a Tormach PCNC 770 mill with a 1 HP spindle.
If I were to choose the drill press, I would need to make an adapter for the 3/4" shaft of the annular cutter. I think it might also be necessary to rig up some kind of coolant setup.?.
The mill would be better for workpiece securing and coolant, but I worried about stalling the spindle and breaking the cutter.

Thoughts?
Thanks

Out of the two I would chose neither ... Agree with the mag drill suggestions.
 
yup, the answer is neither, they both really suck for a 1 1/4 annular cutter.
mag base drill like Jancy slugger Hougen, Nitto. set up for those. close second if you can bring the work to the machine, and it fits the throat depth, a vertical mill.
 
You'll be fine with the mill. Also, with the milling machine you don't usually need to use the pilot. I routinely use 1-3/8 annular cutters in a 3/4" R-8 collet on a 1hp Millrite with mist coolant. No problems whatsoever.
 
yup, the answer is neither, they both really suck for a 1 1/4 annular cutter.
mag base drill like Jancy slugger Hougen, Nitto. set up for those. close second if you can bring the work to the machine, and it fits the throat depth, a vertical mill.

Actually... given the shallow depth... if you have a stout-enough angle plate and/or bracing.. a horizontal mill, used much as a horizontal drillpress would be... can ordinarily put more power to it, and with less flex.
 
Agree the mill and an end mill holder if you have one. Mag drill and light drill press ten to crimp the OD with getting off straight.

Think would run 160-200 rpm for mild steel and a hefty feed with coolant. High ten steel perhaps 80 RPM. I know likely the recommended RPM is likely way over 200 for mild. Don't bang into cut but ease into it with feed rate. I forgot the feed rate so go with manufactures given. They don't like to bang or rub.

I used to sharpen them and one job I got called on the cutter may have been 1" or 1 1/4. was dulling at about 10 holes I forget the steel may have been AR plate 3/4" or 1" .. After my grind, cutting RPM about half, and increasing feed job went to about 70 to 100 holes. So saved the dead job back to profit. Yes I should go knock on their door likely get some work.. if not retired.
The company started out with the grandfather making fire wagons for the civil war and today the company makes fire boxes for navy ships...and lots of other stuf

Sharpening (tir) need be very true, cutting angles not that important, clearance same as new or up to 2* more (never less), gullets getting wider at exit going away from cutting edge..
 
Agree the mill and an end mill holder if you have one.

Hougan and several other sources do make bespoke annular cutter holders/adapters - "RotaLoc" included - for the common mill and drill tapers.

They are not especially cheap. Figure about 50% more than one of the cutters, bought as a "onesie".

This is part of why I suggested renting a mag drill that already HAS such for a mere 20 holes.
 
I own a mill, a drill press, several kinds of punches, a lot of hole saws, AND a mag drill. Without any doubt what you need is a mag drill. You can rent one for a day if you have to.

metalmagpie
 
Same here. I'm guessing the minimum speed on your drill press is somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 RPM, way too fast for a 1-1/4" annular cutter.

Related question: will a standard 3/4" end mill holder work for running an annular cutter, or is there something special about their mounting that is different than end mills with Weldon flats?

Depands on what he bought.

The "famous" Hougen, my cheaper Milwaukee, and cheaper-yet knock-offs made (mostly) for Mag drill use have a special shank (Google "Hougen RotaLoc"):

Even the most-common of other adaptors would be hard to grip well due to their own system of relieved areas. Both are also rather short.

So "depends on what he bought" whether he also needs a bespoke adapter for his mill.
 
Depands on what he bought.

The "famous" Hougen, my cheaper Milwaukee, and cheaper-yet knock-offs made (mostly) for Mag drill use have a special shank (Google "Hougen RotaLoc"):

Even the most-common of other adaptors would be hard to grip well due to their own system of relieved areas. Both are also rather short.

So "depends on what he bought" whether he also needs a bespoke adapter for his mill.

I did indeed buy a cheapo bit. Here is the one.

I am hearing various things, but there seems to be a general consensus that a mag drill would be ideal. I am not sure that I can justify the $100/day (not even sure where I would rent one in my somewhat remote location) for the rental of one of those things...
Any other ideas on how to cut these holes? The purpose of them is for bushings to sit in, so I figured that the tolerance should be pretty good. I do have a manual plasma cutter, but I didn't think that I could get the precision necessary for a bushing.
 
Seems like there's a lot of people here who don't use annular cutters much. It's only a 1-1/4" cutter guys.
Doesn't require much power at all--one of the advantages of an annular cutter is that they don't need a lot
of power. The mill will be just fine. And true annular cutters are HSS, no carbide involved. Just keep the
RPM down around 100 to 125 and that thing will go all day--a little oil dripped or brushed on is all you need.
Weldon shank is fine too...
 
Seems like there's a lot of people here who don't use annular cutters much. It's only a 1-1/4" cutter guys.
Doesn't require much power at all--one of the advantages of an annular cutter is that they don't need a lot
of power. The mill will be just fine. And true annular cutters are HSS, no carbide involved. Just keep the
RPM down around 100 to 125 and that thing will go all day--a little oil dripped or brushed on is all you need.
Weldon shank is fine too...

Ok, I am willing to give it a go. The cutter was only $20 after all.
I will probably try to stick it in the R8 collet and see how that does. Even if coolant is readily available (which it is), would you still advise I stick with your oil recommendation?
 
Ok, I am willing to give it a go. The cutter was only $20 after all.
I will probably try to stick it in the R8 collet and see how that does. Even if coolant is readily available (which it is), would you still advise I stick with your oil recommendation?

If you've got it flood coolant is fine. Let us know how things work out. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised
at how well it works...
 








 
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