Best material for lead screw nut?

Terry Keeley · Apr 28, 2020

Did some searching here and elsewhere and couldn't find a definitive answer.

I need to make a new nut for the knee on my mill. The thread is 7/8" x 10 TPI LH acme.

I know 932 (SAE 660) is probably the "standard" material but is there something better? I'm seeing 954 aluminum, 863 manganese , 630 nickle aluminum , 642 silicone aluminum and 655 silicone bronze.

Any idea what the higher end machines use from the factory?

thermite · Apr 29, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
Did some searching here and elsewhere and couldn't find a definitive answer.

I need to make a new nut for the knee on my mill. The thread is 7/8" x 10 TPI LH acme.

I know 932 (SAE 660) is probably the "standard" material but is there something better? I'm seeing 954 aluminum, 863 manganese , 630 nickle aluminum , 642 silicone aluminum and 655 silicone bronze.

Any idea what the higher end machines use from the factory?

I harbour Aluminium Bronze and Nickel-Aluminium Bronze. Not easy to work either one. Either could last a long time, but wear out the steel screw faster. They need lots of lube, and the right kind OF it.

Might want to use "bearing" Bronze, make two nuts, have the screw still in good enough condition to USE the second nut when the time comes. Among other things, it isn't as sensitive to lube conditions. Or lack thereof.

Odds-are if not a hard-driving shop, and on more than one shift a day, you won't wear-out ANY of them, "Z" axis, on your own watch.

The OEM one is how old, already?

Bill D · Apr 29, 2020

How about modern plastics like Delrin etc? I like the idea of make two while you are at it. I would suggest at least bore and thread one long piece and cut it in half. Maybe machine one all the way on the outside and leave the other for just in case.
Bill D

thermite · Apr 29, 2020

Bill D said:
How about modern plastics like Delrin etc? I like the idea of make two while you are at it. I would suggest at least bore and thread one long piece and cut it in half. Maybe machine one all the way on the outside and leave the other for just in case.
Bill D

Delrin might survive on a transverse positioner. Zero load when not actively positioning, and not CARRYING the mass, unaided, even when so doing.

I'd not want it under even a LIGHT knee with "at least" the whole mass of the knee and table riding on it all day, every day, all year, year AFTER year, even when idle.

Terry Keeley · Apr 29, 2020

Thanks for the input. I don't think plastic would do it.

I found this old post saying the 10EE uses Manganese bronze, is that so? Am I over-thinking this?

Monarch 10EE Crossfeed Nut...what is it made of?

thermite · Apr 29, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
Thanks for the input. I don't think plastic would do it.

I found this old post saying the 10EE uses Manganese bronze, is that so? Am I over-thinking this?

Monarch 10EE Crossfeed Nut...what is it made of?

You probably ARE "over thinking" it. But it's YOUR mill, so..

Dunno if Monarch used or not, meself. But the Manganese Bronzes as a class are about as strong as common Copper Alloys get, and less "abrasive" than the Nickel-Aluminium Bronzes.

I'd figure it right durable for a Z-axis!

Terry Keeley · Apr 29, 2020

Since there wasn't a huge amount of objection here (and no Trump bashing, lol) I figured I WAS over thinking-this and just ordered the 660.

Thanks.

thermite · Apr 29, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
Since there wasn't a huge amount of objection here (and no Trump bashing, lol) I figured I WAS over thinking-this and just ordered the 660.

Thanks.

You can still blame Trump if it is nasty to machine, wears-out, or makes yer workboots stink. But only if YOU are a wuss!

He won't mind either way. Eating Evil comes with his job!

Besides. He doesn't seem to actually give a damn WHAT snowflakes invent to believe... unless, of course, it is something he can easily wind them up over!

Some days, the entertainment level in it reminds me of this guy:

That ******************'s Crazy - Wikipedia

Cole2534 · Apr 29, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
I don't think plastic would do it.

I put a plastic nut in my 12ck. Very very little lash, smooth on the handle and accurate turning diameters. But...it feels mushy when knurling.

Given the size of the nut and the smallest minor diameter of the screw, the screw will part before the nut gives way. It's strong enough, just kinda mushy.

If it perturbs me, I'll replace it.

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