Best way to reduce size of tool holder

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

I have lattern style tool post and the tools I have are too large for it. What is the best way to cut the tool holders down to fit the tool post? The lattern style tool post will take a .625 thick tool but mine are larger. Any suggestions?
Thanks

Pazuzu71 · May 20, 2007

Do you have access to a mill?
If so, just vise the tool holder, and facemill away!

Twinhit · May 20, 2007

Surface grinder if your a perfectionist, standard bench if your coarse. Buy smaller toolholders if your rich.
OR.... if your really rich.
Buy a larger lathe to accomodate a larger lantern tool post properly sized to your toolholders so they can hold the proper sized tool.

If no one is looking or watching, I would grind the tool holders 'til they fit and work properly.
I would leave the bottom alone and grind the topside. This way you have as flat a surface as you can get by leaving the bottomside alone.

LD · May 20, 2007

Stu,

I'm going to guess that your holders are too tall to fit your lantern tool post as opposed to too thick.

Milling off the bottom of the holders is a common practice and allows you to have holders that will accomodate several different size tools and still fit the single tool post..

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

Pazuzu:
At present, I do not have access to mill but will in two weeks--thanks
Twinhit:
I am far-far from a perfectionist and even farther from being rich. I do have a bench grinder.
LD:
They are not too tall but too thick. Do I "take a little" off each side or all on one side?

Pazuzu71 · May 20, 2007

Lantern style tool post = It shouldn't matter if you grind one side or both. The tool rests on the bottom and is clamped by a screw on top, correct?
As long as it fits in the slot, it should stay put by tightening the clamp.

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

Pazuzu:
Correct on the screw is on top.

Twinhit · May 20, 2007

One or both "sides" probably doesn't matter much..
No it doesn't matter if you grind both sides, but I like the idea of a flat surface meeting a flat surface and since stuball48 has a bench grinder only, I personally would stick with grinding the top (if necessary) and sides.
Start grinding on the bottom side and things may show up in the turning processes.
Just grind the top and sides till it fits, testing as you go.

Be sure to remove the cutter from the tool holder lest you have a boo boo and something goes flying through the air going for the jugular.

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

Twinhit:
I want to think the correct size is a size #1 and the ones I have are a size #2. They are in my shop area and I will get the details, of the size, in the morning. They will be used with my old 1947 Leblond lathe.
Someone could see this post and have some #1 sizes they want to swap for the #2 sizes?

[ 05-20-2007, 07:26 AM: Message edited by: stuball48 ]

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

Yes, the correct size is #1 Williams tool holders and I have the Williams #2 size.

richardny · May 20, 2007

consider getting one of the old Hardinge Lathe
single tool holders

they look like crap, but they are great for small work, really................

using a tool holder too large means your
cutting tip is too large and you have excess
cutting tool pressure, making it impossible
to do small parts

rather work up from a tool that is too small

much cheaper

crossthread · May 20, 2007

Save your money and buy a wedge or piston style toolholder. I used the lantern style for years on my South Bend because I just didn't know any better. I still use it occasionally for special jobs where nothing else seems to fit, but you just can't beat a wedge or piston toolholder for rigidity. It will make a better machinist out of you overnight. Cutoffs are a breeze and everything from turning to boring is much, much better.

Mike W · May 20, 2007

I agree with crossthread, get a quick change toolpost. You will like it so much better.

jim rozen · May 20, 2007

If you like the lantern type but don't have
tool holders that fit it, try something different:

Don't use them. Yep, just leave out the old
tool holders and put a larger HSS tool right into
the toolpost, you might need a shim or two to
bring the height up enough, but those can be
either soft steel or additional HSS blanks.

Makes the setup a good deal more rigid.

Jim

Twinhit · May 20, 2007

Those quick change posts are nice.
I use the lantern style, for economics reasons.
ie cannot afford the tooling at this time and also a learning period.
I want to know darned good and well what I want before just jump out and buy.

For those q-change set-ups there are several brands some folks have personal experience with.
Aloris
Dorian
Phase 2
Emco or Enco
??

However, for me, I tend to see what I can do about design and fabricating my own set up.
Custom.
Nothing wrong with the mainstream, just that thing of doing things your way to suit the application and you.
A happy machinist is a good machinist and vice versa.

Now what the other's have said of piston and wedge posts, make sense concerning rigidity. (compared to the lantern type)

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

Thanks for all the input and I am comparable to a "semi driving down main street in a small town." I will just move slowly and then make my decision based on what I think and your suggestions.

Twinhit · May 20, 2007

Thanks for all the input and I am comparable to a "semi driving down main street in a small town." I will just move slowly and then make my decision based on what I think and your suggestions.

There you go!
That's the spirit!

Just make sure you go down a one way street going the right way. Had a co-driver do the opposite on me in Boston once.

precisionworks · May 20, 2007

I have lattern style tool post

Awesome paperweights, useless for anything machine related :eek:

As others already said, get a wedge or piston QCTP ... the very best money you'll ever spend on your lathe. They'd be cheap at twice the pric. Get a set of holders for carbide inserts, whatever flavor you choose. Search "carbide insert" under the General forum, probably 1000 threads on this topic.

------------------------------------------------

If you're dead set on using the streetpost ... sorry, lantern ... remove the material from the bottom of the toolholders using a carbide face mill or a carbide end mill. Don't remove material from the top, as this will often put the toolpoint so far above center that you cannot adjust it down.

-------------
Barry Milton

donie · May 20, 2007

Sometimes, those skinny lantern post can get into tight areas that the QC type cant go, such as around flanges.

stuball48 · May 20, 2007

precisionworks:
I am not "dead set" on using the lantern style--I want to use what will do the best job--and ya'll are convincing me the wedge or piston type is much better---will lean that way for a little while and see if either come available in this area.

Best way to reduce size of tool holder

Stainless

Hot Rolled

Cast Iron

Aluminum

Stainless

Hot Rolled

Stainless

Cast Iron

Stainless

Stainless

Hot Rolled

Titanium

Stainless

Diamond

Cast Iron

Stainless

Cast Iron

Diamond

Diamond

Stainless

Similar threads