BS9 taper advise/opinion
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  1. #1
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    Default BS9 taper advise/opinion

    I've got a Burke #4 mill with a Browne and Sharpe #9 taper and mostly use collets with a drawbar for cutters
    I have found a few cutters with BS9 taper but no provision for a drawbar
    Is installing the cutter with a rawhide mallet sufficient for holding the cutter or should I also use the over arm to retain the cutter
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrongwayrick View Post
    I've got a Burke #4 mill with a Browne and Sharpe #9 taper and mostly use collets with a drawbar for cutters
    I have found a few cutters with BS9 taper but no provision for a drawbar
    Is installing the cutter with a rawhide mallet sufficient for holding the cutter or should I also use the over arm to retain the cutter
    As you have no provision for tang drive and as protecting the spindle taper bore from harm is easily two orders of magnitude more important than any single "consumable" cutter's value?

    Neither.

    Just scrap them and buy proper ones in future

    Over-arm can prevent walk-out, but can NOT prevent spinning in the bore.
    Not worth altering for a drawbar.

    Not worth any risk, great or small.

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    No back gear on that mill - you really need to see how slow you can get that spindle to go - before you ruin that cutter by over speed

    This assumes you will want to cut on metal

    I recently ran the exact same shank on a size larger tee slot cutter - at 99 RPM in nice cast iron - it did not come loose, but then the holder was made to accommodate the tang

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    - it did not come loose, but then the holder was made to accommodate the tang
    Got a few here, #9 B&S tail ... with drawbar threads.

    Tanged socket, "front" end, but they are meant for running # 2 & # 3 MT drills, not milling cutters, and in the vertical #9 B&S taper head of the larger combo mill.

    On my tiny #4, their stick-out would put the tool the OP has show clear across the table and too DAMNED close to the operator's belly!


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    R8 spindle tooling is plentiful and inexpensive. Compare the R8 with the 9 B&S. Consider modifying your 9B&S to an R8 spindle recess.

    It's a simple hard-boring job if you mount your lathe's compound slide on the table and set it to the taper's half angle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest Addy View Post
    R8 spindle tooling is plentiful and inexpensive. Compare the R8 with the 9 B&S. Consider modifying your 9B&S to an R8 spindle recess.

    It's a simple hard-boring job if you mount your lathe's compound slide on the table and set it to the taper's half angle.
    Surely. And you only sacrifice a bit over 60% of the grip? Are Ate is a bad joke barely equal to a # SEVEN B&S.

    Makes more sense to just lay-in a stash of Weldon-style side-locks, native #9 B&S and cut serious chip. Leave the # 9 collets (still made, brand-new) for drills & such.

    Or.. pop any other nose-closer collet (ER, TG) with a straight-shank into a #9 B&S collet, better yet - native #9 B&S tail - and mess less with a drawbar.

    I've even got PDQ-Marlin "VS" on my Burke #4. And the vertical head of the "Quartet" combo mill.. and the Ellis DH.

    "Obsolete don't mean useless", or we'd be short of feminine companionship and/or loyal dogs in our dotage!

    B&S #9 may no longer be "mainstream", but it was 40-taper as displaced it.

    Not wimp-ass Are Ate!

    That's for BirdPorts so it isn't so b***dy obvious there's no power back of the collet, nor a stiff enough mill to manage it well it if there was.

    Ever notice half the "Bridgeport clones" out there are heavier, more powerful... and 40-taper, whilst the Chicom "mill drills" as mass less than a Hobart institutional or GI mess-hall food mixer use R8?



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