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To buy a ~60yr old lathe or not

carl0s

Plastic
Joined
Mar 27, 2019
Hi. Quick intro, I want to make something. I want to make a motorbike gauge housing. It will be about 78mm O/D, certainly made from aluminium to begin with, in two parts that screw together - as you might expect. Probably with a protruding bevel on the front piece.

So I am set on a lathe. Before the lathe-moment, I thought I would try to make it out of s/s pipe + plasma-cut face & back circles/rings (with no bevel of course), and then TIG-braze (silicon bronze) the pieces together, because that would be an impressive looking thing, and people would like that, but.. the pipe or tube sizes are unsuitable for my ~72mm round LCD display, and.. well now I realise that a lathe is the right machine - and I just want the satisfaction of making something, and now I have something set in mind to make.

The big question is, (and I think I know the answer, but I'm worried about getting stuck with an old lathe that doesn't run parallel, or has other limitations).. should I buy an old lathe, or a modern Chinese one? I bought a Chinese milling machine a few years ago (Amadeal AMA25LV. cost me more than I remembered. Wish I'd kept it now.) and I blew the motor controller in no time, the handles all worked loose all the time, and, well, I now realise that bigger is better. I probably should have stuck to aluminium on that, but didn't. Still, if I was buying an Asian machine now, I'd spend a bit more (£2,000 ish), and I'd make sure it was the biggest I could afford, and used an invertor driven motor, which I gather is better. That milling machine of mine ended up with a treadmill motor botched onto it.

There's this Churchill Cub mk3 for sale, and it's local to me (oh yeah, I'm in the UK. I think we're lucky when it comes to ~1950s metalwork machinery). I have the space for it - could go at the back of my double garage, but I wouldn't be able to use it until I converted it to use a variable frequency drive thingy, which I'm not even sure might need a different motor anyway, and also it's limited to 1,000rpm, and I'm not sure if that'll be a problem. It seems to come with a lot of useful stuff though. Should I buy it? Must admit, I'd really like a sexy looking Smart & Brown 1024 or other curvy non-modern style thing with big levers though. They are perfect retro.

Almost forgot, the Churchill Cub mk3. It has a screwcutting gearbox, but the seller says it can cut metric with the change wheels. Now, for my gauge, I suppose it doesn't matter what thread I use, but I suppose I might want to make something fit something else in future, which would mean metric for me here in the UK. Does the changewheels mean I can't use the nice selectors to choose thread pitches, and have to switch gears every time? Should I care about that?

So, given the limited RPM, metric changewheel stuff, the fact that I'd have to get the motor working - and most importantly, my lack of any knowledge about what is right/wrong with a lathe - is this Churchill Cub mk3 worth my consideration? A new Chinese lathe would need a bench making. Plus, I'm not actually up to speed with the electronics of my project anyway.. I still have 6 months to a year of microcontroller programming to learn before I have something ready to put into a housing.
 
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Not sure what that means, but I look forward to hearing from Digger Doug :-)

I gather the spindle bore is unusually small on this machine and can be a limiting factor. As I have no lathe machining experience, I'm not sure if that's relevant to me right now, but I'm sure some requirement could come along in future. The spindle bore would stop me feeding long stock through the head & chuck, right? But I could still use long materials if they were just held by the chuck itself & a steady ?

Don't really see myself trying to make my own driveshafts or anything. Although I did stop myself from throwing away a BMW propshaft at the weekend - kind of had visions of spinning off-cuts in a lathe.
 
I changed the post above to a link with a similar lathe in it. Yes long stock will not fit inside headstock if it is larger than the bore, and yes long (within reason) can be done like you describe.
 
I changed the post above to a link with a similar lathe in it. Yes long stock will not fit inside headstock if it is larger than the bore, and yes long (within reason) can be done like you describe.

Yeah that's the exact one. I'm about 20 miles from there!

Also, the chuck fitting is a nightmare, but.. there are two big chucks included with that machine, so it shouldn't matter should it.

How often would you need to feed something in through the spindle bore, vs just holding in the chuck, unless it's really long? Is it normal to have the part set inside the bore for steadiness (so that it's not gripped on the end)? or is that just to facilitate longer pieces that otherwise wouldn't fit? 3/4" does seem small.
 
For small work like you describe no need to ever put anything inside the spindle.
That looks like a really nice machine and if I was you just get it.

OK I am giving it serious consideration, thanks!
 
I'm a bit concerned that Clive says, here,
If you aren't in practice with moderately sized home shop lathes I can assure you that this small spindle bore is very, very limiting.
 
All I will say is if that was within a 100 miles of me it would already be in my shop and I have more lathes than I need now. EXTREMITY well equipped . But as a rank beginner you need to do some reading ! South Bend lathe's book on how to run a lathe would be a good start. Both of my smaller lathes turn 2000 and I rarely go over 800-900.
 
That Churchill lathe would sell very quickly in my part of the world. Usual advice is to take your time, look around. But unless UK prices have dropped to the floor, or the lathe is in poor condition, it looks like 10x the quality and performance of an equivalent new Chinese lathe.
 
carl0s: How much lathe work have you done? It sounds like the parts you wish to make will require some reasonably competent skills. Buying a lathe is just a start. Johnoder is trying to get you understand that. Listen up!

JH
 
carl0s: How much lathe work have you done? It sounds like the parts you wish to make will require some reasonably competent skills. Buying a lathe is just a start. Johnoder is trying to get you understand that. Listen up!

JH

I have ordered a copy of the book that John pointed me to, so I'd say I am listening!
 
Try to make a list of all the things you might wish to do with the lathe..A steady rest can often make long work done with not the part going through the head stock. Yes for work about as long as the lathe between centers distance. A good condition older industrial quality lathe may last a hobby guy a lifetime. But repair parts can be hard to find so much caution needed running same. any lathe should be running to check it out..and a lathe hand taken with you if you don't have lathe time,
QT: Smart & Brown 1024..very nice but 24 is not very long. Perhaps the Churchill is a 24.

Define your needs as best you can..spend a few extra bucks up front to get what you need. A good choice you can resell. bad choice perhaps not.

For example I have a grinder that is likely 1937 or so.. and there are not many new machines that can do as good.
 
Another thing to pay close attention to is what comes with a used lathe?
The churchill you are looking at is ready to do most anything. Around here the accesories with it would part out to close to $1000 so is that a lathe for free when you buy the "extras"?
That is part of what makes that one so appealing, plus being so close to you.
 








 
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