Can anyone help me figure out what kind of chuck taper is on this drill press?

Hey All,

I recently was given an old bench top drill press from my brother. It was one of two that he got from some old guys garage sale for $10. So, I thought I would scrub off the rust and repaint it and then just buy a cheap chuck (the one it come with is broken).

It is a Central Machinery model: S-5901, made in China. The measurements for the spindle are:

Larger diameter: 0.628"
Smaller diameter: 0.579"
Length: 1.025"

Looking at the different taper dimensions this is closest to a Jacobs Taper #33. I bought a cheap JT33 chuck off amazon and thing won't seat fully on the spindle. It's like the taper angles don't match and it allows the chuck to wobble. Then when removing the chuck I can seen two shiny spots where it was mating with the spindle. Then I got my hands and a good name brand JT33 chuck and it was the same story. The original (broken) chuck fits on snug as bug, so I am at a loss of how to get a functional chuck for this DP, any suggestions?

If you look at the pic of the data plate you'll see it says the spindle is a MT2, but that is a lie. When I took it apart to repaint it, the upper spindle is just a .400" straight shank pressed into some bearings. So, I'm wondering if this just a case of cheap chinese made junk, thanks for any help you guys can offer.

Jon

Look here at the Jacob tapers and pick the one that matches your dimensions

Standard Tapers

There is a series of European DIN chuck tapers that are completely different from the American Jacobs tapers. I have a few Swiss and German chucks with DIN tapers and I bought an arbor for one from a China seller on eBay. DIN taper stuff is rare in the USA.

That said, did you try a Jacobs 2 or 2 short taper? I think that is a popular size for your type of drill press and the 2MT might just be a translation mistake.

Larry

I wouldn't be surprised if it is a B16 taper -- I've made that mistake myself.

Someone once told me you could stick a blob of play dough up inside the taper to model it.

V

I had one of those years ago. There were two pallets of them at a local big box hardware store for something like $100. They sold a few then no more. Sat there for two months dropping the price. Then one weekend all gone. About a month later I stopped in at a local discount tool store, one with even lower quality than HF. Wada ya know, 1 3/4 pallets of drill pressed. By that time price was $20 so I got one.

Runout with a 1/4" bit was 3/8"+. Ill bet that is the reason for the chuck change. Anyway the taper was unknown to me so I took out the spindal and cut a Jacobs taper. The metal turned like soft brass. Runout was fine after that..........but still a junky drill press.

Bet the original paint color was metallic green. Nice blue paint job though.

pritchaj said:

snip

If you look at the pic of the data plate you'll see it says the spindle is a MT2, but that is a lie. When I took it apart to repaint it, the upper spindle is just a .400" straight shank pressed into some bearings. So, I'm wondering if this just a case of cheap chinese made junk, thanks for any help you guys can offer. snip

Click to expand...

Jon,
Based on your nubie state and the machine you're asking about, I'm assuming you're not very familiar with machinery.
Soo . . .Are you sure that the taper shown in your pictures isn't one end of a M2 shank? In other words, is that taper on a removable shank which is installed into your Morse 2 spindle?
If it is as I suggest, you should see two 'knock out slots' when your quill is fully extended. If so, get a #2 Morse Taper Drift and knock the shank out of the quill.
Get yourself a new (to you) chuck and an appropriate #2 Morse taper shank.

pritchaj said:

The original (broken) chuck fits on snug as bug, so I am at a loss of how to get a functional chuck for this DP, any suggestions?

Click to expand...

The original chuck should have the taper marked on it. B16 taper? here's a link to hf's newer model dp.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60238.pdf

Arthur.Marks said:

I wouldn't be surprised if it is a B16 taper -- I've made that mistake myself.

Click to expand...

You are correct Arthur, it is B16. When I looked up taper dimensions I got a list that only included Jacobs, Morse, Jarno, and Brown & Sharpes so I figured those were the only major types (what's that rule about assuming things?). I never had seen a mention of a "B" type taper. Now looking at the rusted over original chuck there is a very small B16 engraved right after where it says the chuck's min/max capacity.

mach2 said:

I had one of those years ago. There were two pallets of them at a local big box hardware store for something like $100. They sold a few then no more. Sat there for two months dropping the price. Then one weekend all gone. About a month later I stopped in at a local discount tool store, one with even lower quality than HF. Wada ya know, 1 3/4 pallets of drill pressed. By that time price was $20 so I got one.

Runout with a 1/4" bit was 3/8"+. Ill bet that is the reason for the chuck change. Anyway the taper was unknown to me so I took out the spindal and cut a Jacobs taper. The metal turned like soft brass. Runout was fine after that..........but still a junky drill press.

Bet the original paint color was metallic green. Nice blue paint job though.

Click to expand...

You, Sir, are correct on the green color. It definitely seems very cheaply made, but it's better than what I had before.

extropic said:

Jon,
Based on your nubie state and the machine you're asking about, I'm assuming you're not very familiar with machinery.
Soo . . .Are you sure that the taper shown in your pictures isn't one end of a M2 shank? In other words, is that taper on a removable shank which is installed into your Morse 2 spindle?
If it is as I suggest, you should see two 'knock out slots' when your quill is fully extended. If so, get a #2 Morse Taper Drift and knock the shank out of the quill.
Get yourself a new (to you) chuck and an appropriate #2 Morse taper shank.

Click to expand...

There is no doubt that I'm a noob, but I am familiar with Morse tapers and I did take the whole thing apart to clean it up. There is the taper that you can see in the pictures then it is just a .400" shaft about 6" long going straight up from that. At the top and bottom of the shaft there are 2" bearings pressed on that fit inside the quill. And the quill has no knock-out slots like you would see for a morse taper. What you described is what I was expecting it to be (seeing as that is what it says on the data plate) and I thought it would be a quick and easy fix. Here's a picture of the whole shaft with one of those bearings on it.

egpace said:

The original chuck should have the taper marked on it. B16 taper? here's a link to hf's newer model dp.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/60000-60999/60238.pdf

Click to expand...

You are right as well, it is small rusted over and I was unaware of there being a "B" type of taper.

Thanks everyone for the input and helping a new guy who is still trying to distinguish his ass from his elbow in all things machinery.

Jon

mach2 said:

I had one of those years ago. There were two pallets of them at a local big box hardware store for something like $100. They sold a few then no more. Sat there for two months dropping the price. Then one weekend all gone. About a month later I stopped in at a local discount tool store, one with even lower quality than HF. Wada ya know, 1 3/4 pallets of drill pressed. By that time price was $20 so I got one.

Runout with a 1/4" bit was 3/8"+. Ill bet that is the reason for the chuck change. Anyway the taper was unknown to me so I took out the spindal and cut a Jacobs taper. The metal turned like soft brass. Runout was fine after that..........but still a junky drill press.

Bet the original paint color was metallic green. Nice blue paint job though.

Click to expand...

That's a GREAT idea, if you have access to, and experience with a lathe. In fact, it's the BEST idea.

Ebay has, now, an endless supply of B16 chucks. That would be the easiest way. Pay your $20 and wait two months for it to show up from China.

Since you have already invested in Jacobs chucks, if you have a lathe, go for creating the JT33 taper.

5 year old thread...
Joe