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I want to make an inboard boat prop shaft from some 1" stainless on my Heavy 10 lathe. I do not have a taper attachment. The taper IIRC is 1:12 or 3 degrees (may have to double check that).
Just throwing this out here and see what comes back!
Set the compound. Plan to mate-up two goes with that - so don't change the angle, just re-position the carriage & cross.
I agree this would be best for setting the compound if the prop ID is in fair condition.
Brent
In short, no you cannot. You should have a TA or a tracer attachment. Second, the fit must be correct or you risk loosing the prop and shaft. It is the taper that drives the shaft, it is not the key! That taper must be a lapped fit and the shaft keyway Must have large radius corners with a matching key. Sharp corners encourage shaft failure due to stress concentrations. If you don't have the right equipment, you need to send the job out.
I trust that ''In short, no you cannot. You should have a TA or a tracer attachment.'' and '' If you don't have the right equipment, you need to send the job out'' is being at least a little tongue in cheek.
Why tongue in cheek? it is clear the OP is inexperienced at least in this task. The OP has a 10" SB with very limited compound travel. Is he prepared to cut the radiused cornered keyway and with what? He didn't say. He threw the question out there for comments and advice. Prop shafts and props are expensive. Thermite is correct, the OP will never get an acceptable finish with the compound for a lapped fit. I think my advice is pretty much spot on.
If his SB has a 1"+ spindle bore,he will have no trouble cutting the taper from his topslide,especially if his shaft is one of the soft free cutting stainless that are generally used.......ive seen badly scored tapers cleaned up with a linisher ,new brass key,and working perfectly............Two points ,never use a SS nut,use brass,and use a brass key,or when the key shears,you will never get the prop off......we re talking ski boats,not the Titanic.
Isn't there anyone left who remembers offsetting the tail stock and running between centers, driving with a faceplate and dog? You use the power carriage feed just like normal lathe work so you can have as fine a feed as is available.
Bill
Isn't there anyone left who remembers offsetting the tail stock and running between centers, driving with a faceplate and dog? You use the power carriage feed just like normal lathe work so you can have as fine a feed as is available.
Bill
How long is the taper? If you have enough stroke with the compound maybe. I'd definitely mount an indicator and set the angle with the amount of drop/rise in a designated distance to set the angle, not the protractor scale on the compound. Then blue it in with the prop itself when you're done. Diameter will have to be somewhat accurate so the prop sets on shaft in the correct position. May take some doin but its possible.
Brent
..if you want to set it up several times, you can make it as long as you want to.
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