Can I dress a Bear Tex Wheel?

atomarc · Jul 21, 2018

Can I dress a Bear Tex wheel? What would I use to dress it? It must have been made on a Friday and my poor old Baldor grinder is doing the Cha Cha all over the bench.

I guess I could haul some wood home on the roof of my Kia, build a new workbench and tie the grinder down but I don't know how much wood I can haul on the roof of my Kia. I'll save that question for another day! :crazy:

Stuart

thermite · Jul 21, 2018

atomarc said:
Can I dress a Bear Tex wheel? What would I use to dress it? It must have been made on a Friday and my poor old Baldor grinder is doing the Cha Cha all over the bench.

I guess I could haul some wood home on the roof of my Kia, build a new workbench and tie the grinder down but I don't know how much wood I can haul on the roof of my Kia. I'll save that question for another day!

Stuart

You could try what we did on our Weldon-Roberts "rubber" wheels.

Our guy used half of a 30-grit wheel that had got dropped and busted, just hand-held it.

It loads-up a lot with the material removed, so yah need a lot of area to do it without wasting too much time..

Worth a try, but.. sounds like sumthin' may have been wrong in the making of it, so you might get it geometrically true and still have the mass-imbalance.

CarbideBob · Jul 21, 2018

Yes.
A carbide tool bit works.
Don't use just an insert in your hand. A bit in a holder or a good sized brazed tool supported on the tool rest.
PCD tips work even better but the bit will be no good for machining afterwards. (same with the carbide, you will put a bit "hone" on the tool)
Don't push in too hard or the insert will bite into the wheel tearing the holder out of your hand, jamming in-between the rest and wheel cutting a big chunk out and stalling the grinder. (don't ask....)
A high positive HSS lathe bit works also but you may have to sharpen it a few times.

A hand held air belt sander (Dynabrade type) with rough paper or a die grinder with a good size coarse stone also works and is faster.
We sometimes need to pre-dress contours into these type wheels before use.
Bob

atomarc · Jul 22, 2018

Thanks..I'll give that a go.

Stuart

adama · Jul 22, 2018

Have and do use a old Diamond core drill insert to do that, effectively just the same stuff as a piece of the rim of diamond masonry cutting disc. In my case i use it to give the outside of the wheel a profile that fits my part's grove that im polishing. Once ruffed in and if the parts always about the same - think a constant machined part, my experience is those wheels hold a form pretty dang good.

Wheel wise if you like the 3m ones, you gotta try the blue Norton ones, "vortex" they go as, there awsome, but a lot harder to find, they last so much longer and cut faster too.

michiganbuck · Jul 22, 2018

One can also use a die grinder and grind a rag/flap wheel to make it run true.
oh I see Carbide Bob mentioned this in post 3.
I was thinking about trying a rag/flap wheel to de-bug aluminum parts..but sure don't like the price

adama · Jul 22, 2018

michiganbuck said:
I was thinking about trying a rag/flap wheel to de-bug aluminum parts..but sure don't like the price

Yeah can't say i always like the prices, but equally cheaper abrasives tend to work a lot lot slower. These days i generally pay more - chose ceramic when ever i can, just gets the horrible jobs done faster and makes less mess - air born dust in the process. My experience paying even 3x more can get you a product that lasts multiple times longer and cuts faster + cooler whilst still leaving the same finish.

atomarc · Jul 22, 2018

Per the above suggestions I grabbed a big old inserted carbide lathe tool and got frisky with the two wheels. It initially trued them up quite nicely but I sure was surprised to see how they quickly they polished and dulled the tip of the insert. They are much more stout than I would have guessed.

Stuart

thermite · Jul 22, 2018

atomarc said:
Per the above suggestions I grabbed a big old inserted carbide lathe tool and got frisky with the two wheels. It initially trued them up quite nicely but I sure was surprised to see how they quickly they polished and dulled the tip of the insert. They are much more stout than I would have guessed.

Stuart

Yah, we forget, as we don't ordinarily use Aluminium Oxide abrasives to work Tungsten Carbides - there are better choices.

Even so, ALOX it IS harder, and WILL "win" the battle eventually, even with serious "combat losses".

Same with the 30-grit ALOX against finer-grain ALOX trick. Not ideal, but a busted wheel hadn't much worth, anyway, and there's a lot of mass to use-up, even when it is on the "losing side" of each encounter.

moonlight machine · Jul 22, 2018

I just use an old file, works a treat.

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